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Everything posted by FUELER
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is the angle of the lights adjustable? It looks like the lights are pointing up to the sky on that last pathfinder.
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Thanks for the reassurance. I am used to my refrigerator condensor being warm to the touch but I guess it is working a lot less than a car AC condensor. I am not an AC tech. I was starting to think there might be air in my system, or bad pressures, something causing problems. I need to fix the leak and have it vacuumed / recharged anyways. And my fan clutch is brand new, made in USA "TORQFLO" with lifetime warranty. My original was slipping all the time and causing overheating. When I use my AC, the fan clutch engages almost 100% of the time (except for freeway) but I guess thats normal.
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MWS, Did you even read my last reply or are you just trying to be a comedian? Don't reply unless you know what you are talking about.
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Wow, thanks for the detailed reply, Marooncobra. I know the principles of heat exhange, and I always thought the consensor should get warm, but I think my condensor might be getting hotter than it's supposed to. It gets so hot that you can't even hold your hand on it (the face of it, with the fins) for longer than 5 seconds. I can even see a difference in the engine temperature gauge with AC on vs. AC off. Engine temp usually lies at about 40%-45% (of the gauge) with AC off and goes up to 50%-60% with the AC on, on a hot day. If I leave it idling on a hot day for 15 minutes with the AC on, it will start messing with my exterior temp display too. It could be 85 degrees F outside but when I leave it idling with the AC engaged, the compass/temp reading will go up to 110 - 115 F My main concern is that my condensor might be getting TOO hot. Although I probably shouldn't let me car idle for 15 minutes when its 85* F outside. But I know there are a lot of places that see 100+ temps in the summer. Any of you guys ever notice anything like this?
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I noticed that my engine runs hotter with the AC on so I did a quick test. I placed my hand on my AC condensor while the AC was on, and it was very hot, I can only hold it for a few seconds. Then, I turned the AC off and INSTANTLY the condensor cooled down greatly, within a few seconds. I turned the AC back on and the condensor went immediately back to HOT HOT HOT. Within a few seconds, it was already HOT to the touch again. Is this normal?? A few years ago, I punctured the condensor in Baja and all the freon leaked out. I had the condensor replaced with a new one, and AC recharged, ever since then, it's had a small leak. My mechanic just adds a can of freon to my system whenever it stops cooling (once a year or so, last did it a month ago)
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LSD rears have an orange sticker on them "LSD oil only" if the sticker is gone.... try jacking the rear off the ground, spin one tire and see what the other does.
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Let me know if you ever want to hit a day of baja wheeling. I am in San Diego, and frequent baja from the border down to San Felipe and Puertocitos. I plan to do the full Baja 1000 some day (at my own pace :tonguefinger: )
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Me too! I pay $2.22 a month for 5 websites (hosting and domain names included) Thats an incredible price, considering that my main site brings in thousands of dollars of business every month. What a ROI!!
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or just cut the power antenna wire on the back of your stereo or put a switch on it like I did. Radio shack 12V switch was a few bucks. Because I like to listen to my music when i'm in the car wash!
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Be careful with the OE rear tow hooks. They are not designed for off-road recovery. I broke both of them at the same time on a crashed 96 Pathfinder winching it out of a ditch. The winch cable flew and slammed the cab of my tow truck and left a dent the size of a softball. Pretty scary stuff.
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I need one too. Anybody know the cost off the top of their heads?? AC vs BP?
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I can vouch that the BFG AT is a very quiet tire.... but the triple sidewall (great for offroading) makes it a heavy tire. I had some 265/75/16 BFG AT on my R50 and it couldn't lock those tires up if my life depended on it.
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For someone who knows so much about R50's, it's very odd that the post didn't make sense to you?? It's probably because im drunk. The spacer introduces a greater angle on the CV axle than without the spacer, and also allows the suspension to drop .75" lower than before at full droop, so yeah there will be extra wear and tear but there is no set angle defined as "maxxed out". You can break axles at any angle. I broke one on my stock R50.
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Nope. Theres a few guys running spacers with the AC lift and they break a few CV axles here and there. Just get locking hubs.
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I would get that quickly if I had a VQ35. Great mod.
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I don't have any dyno sheets but I have felt intake manifolds on the same car with and without the gasket and I can tell you, it makes a world of difference in terms of engine heat. Its the difference between cool to the touch on your fingers, VS. frying an egg.
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Intake manifold gasket is not a gimmick. It actually makes a big difference. Without a gasket, the intake plenum gets really hot, and with a gasket installed, the intake plenum stays cool to the touch. Hondata and AEBS have done a lot of research on these gaskets. "Around town, testing has shown an average drop of around 10 degrees C which is good for around 3 percent power increase. Remember though that 3 percent power increase is difficult to feel. You'd feel a greater change in performance getting rid of that passenger. In certain conditions a 30° C drop has been measured."
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Pinnacle sells the OEM ones for $5 each, thats the same per-unit price MSRP is $6.75 so 10 for $50 is the same price as pinnacle
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heres how i do it -only do this when the gas tank is low, try changing a fuel filter with a full tank and you will have 15 gallons of gas all over yourself and your driveway 1. pull the fuel pump fuse and turn on the engine. It should run and then die. Try starting a few more times - this is to get all the gas out of the fuel line. 2. unbolt the fuel pump, it should be under the pathfinder above the rear axle. Pull the rubber hoses off each end - pliers can help if they are stubborn. 3. put new one in, bolt it up and hook up the fuel line, pop in the fuse and youre set.
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It lifts the front .75" It is placed between the strut's upper top hat, and its mounting point where it is bolted to the top of the fenderwell. Requires you to press out the old bolts and replace with longer ones - Tyler can send you the grade 8 hardware required for an extra $15. Some people just knocked the old bolts out with a hammer.
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They are about $100 a set. I sold mine for $5 less than i bought them for
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Questions from a newbie, so excuse me if they are dumb: I just bought a 92 Pathfinder. It leaks oil like crazy. Big puddle under the truck after it runs. I would like to fix this. The previous owner said it was the Rear Main Seal. It appears to be this based on my observations underneath. I am sure the engine or tranny or both needs to come out to do this. While it is out I plan to do a total re-seal, i.e. oil pan, valve covers, etc, maybe even timing belt. How difficult is this to do? I have some experience in removing engines from old Subaru's. It seems like there is less room to work on the Pathfinder. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
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what do you mean by good? because typically, a grille guard only causes more damage in an accident, than would have been had the grill guard not existed. They are good, however, for hitting shopping carts, little kids, and small, light fences. and taillight guards are just cheesey, please dont deface your Nissan with them!
