nismothunder

How about a exhaust kit that alows the exhaust to exit before the rear tires,and have it a bolt on kit...Have it in 2 inch and 2.25 inch styles...(priced between 60-120 bucks plus shipping depending if it comes with a muffler or not)

yeah,or he could sea foam it or just let it be.ATF has more detergents in it then oil,so it cleans better.And if he goes any place other then the site he's going paying 10 bucks for the amsoil flush if not more(Not knocking it,I sell it) OSR...smo...really that the best you got...?

If your talking about GL4 for your diffs then the 85-90-115 napa brand stuff is the same,the 115 is a lsd aditive.Just look at the bottles and if they say for use in LSD diffs then your fine...But make sure the rear diff cse is not leaking.Mine wasnt leaking at the time I got it but it has clear signs that it did,I didnt check the level until may and there wasnt any in it that I could find.It took 2 quirts and just barly touched my fingure,then when I changed it,I scrapped around the hole and I came out with about two good pinchs of metal...

Well I was pointing out that if you went with a 8 cylinder engine (small one with od) you would be getting a increase in displacement and probly better mpg since the engine wouldnt be turning at 3k to go 70mph...But its a lot of work to put one in...Autos are fine,I fine that I get far better mpg with one...but sticks are good(thats what I cut my teeth one when I was learning to drive,and they give you the abiltly to pop the clutch to get unstuck) The v6 are great,I wont be trading a v8 for my vg30e any time soon and I find they haul the truck quite well.

A wet dizzy cap is usally pin pointed by putting the truck in neutral and giving it gas(at least this is how I've always pin pointed it),It will sputter and try to die,Dont let it die,just goose the pedal until the water is disapaited and it will run fine.A way to keep the water away from the cap and is when installing it to put a line of RTV silicon at its base.It keeps the water out and comes of really easy when your changing them(or points) and rotor...

Humm...why not just put a carbed or tbi 305 v8 in it with a th700r4 tranny,low first and and a over drive,and 305s are gas sippers... and even the worse onesfrom the worse years are 160 hp and 210 lbs torqe...would be like driving...well a v8 wd21...what ever you do at least your trucks going to live on...

Scotchbrit works wonders gg...I did mine and then sprayed with stp son of a gun and the alumiunum looked like chrome...

Well lets just say the title caught my eye... But yakima makes a nice rack,I'm not sure on any other companys but I'm sure you can find others or maybe even have one custom built for the same price...

Factory...mine still works...but let me tell you about what a former owner did to my fog light switch...you know how some pathys came with adjustable shocks...yep he made it so my truck ether has rock hard shocks in back or ones so loose its like riding on the moon...one of the few things that they did that I found out about while driving done the road...

It all depends on all the state,like mn,theres no emissions,but wisconin has it...It all depends on the state. Removeing the cat add only 2-3 hp on built engines,on a 3.0 v6 it will not be noticeable unless you cat is plugged(and about a pint of go-lightly will fix that)Some members on hear say that it adds a more agressive tone to the exhaust(which it would since it flowing better).

Mine came out easy,I simply just used a come-along to bend the pipe out of the way(my pipe was broke so it didnt make any real diffrence.Yeah,when you buy the filter you get a new gasket.Use vasoline and a putty knife to get the old gasket of the pan,a whole lot easyer then any other way that I've found.

I think it was good idea,it keeps the filter up and out of the way of rocks and other stuff that can be trown up at a filter and put a hole in it...changing it on the other had is kinda a pita...but on my 95 it was never a problem(depending if I lugged that sob down or not)

Umm...agreed 100% but it could be a impropertly shimmed starter or a starter sticking to so its turning agaisnt the flywheel after you dsengage it...

The back firing maybe cause by a bad dizzy cap or rotor...my 95 was back firing and I replaced them and it fixed it,I'm not saying thats the problem with your but it could help... Huh...my 2960cc monster would spin both rear 245/70s for 10-15 feet on concrete,off idle,not brake staging or any thing and it left preppy good marks for only 153 hp.

Man your the most help full guy on this site...what you still owe me a cd dont you...?

I see where the slow part in your name comes from now... ...

I thought I was bad since I've lost the drain plug twice inside the fender...but really...I mean the oil dip stick comes outa the head and is like a cable...

Ok so I'm pulling the auto tranny in my 95 tomarrow for disasebley,but before so I plan on trying one more thing. But I need too know if there are any secretes to doing this,like should I just jack up the front or both the front and rear. And looking in my chilten manuel it looks like the t-case shifter lever is a big PITA...is it so...thanks for any help...

But they can be made fast... a guy I knew had a 4 banger 91 escort and and changed it from fi to carb and made like 210 hp(a lil bit up from the stock 92 hp...but it ate trannys...

Now I wounder what a pathy would sound like getting the juice...damnit...

I say bolt that puppy up...but make sure you have the right kind of plugs in it or you'll melt a piston or tw0. And get a tranny cooler if you have a auto... on a side note I saw a sweet stock black and red dodge dakota(I'm saying sweet from the color combo) with Vtec power on the rear window...I guess its better then MO-power...

Nitrous is the easiest and quikest way to get more power...But I wouldnt go over a 100 shot on any stock engine... But a cold air intake and exhaust are pretty much the stand by on hear... I have 2 1/4 pipe and a glass pack from the last cat back and a K&n air filter...the air filter I cant say that I noticed any more power over a paper fram one but it seems like I Have more midline torqe then the paper...but this comes at a lose since it feels like I lose some low end power.But these are the drop in filters and not cone style... cams areanother thing,if I remember there are 2 performance style cams for this engine...But I have never tryed them so I cant give you any data or any thing... Intakes and exhausts are the things you does first in any engine,from a 1.9 escort to a 8.1 chevy...there usally the easiest and the lest complacation(exhaust stud not counted). But the first thing you should do if you havent done it already is a simple tune up and fluid change.