k9sar

that info is listed on the back of my drivers side sun visor. did you check there?

take the cash, pay your insurance company a couple hundred bucks for the salvage (heck, they can't use it). Retitle it (required) as a salvaged vehicke and fix it yourself. 60 to 80% fo the cost to repair is in the labor.

do you have a manual or an auto tranny?

if you push and hold the panic button, you will get up to five beeps (or single high-pitched horn sounds) before it then triggers teh alarm to go off (as in BLAAAT BLAAT BLAAT, not 'off')

if you change your oil filter too. the capacity is 3 5/8 quarts. Throw in 4 and don't worry about it. If there's oil on the stick other than just on the edges, you're good.

POSER!

If I look at a diagram of the fuel system, it appears as if the pressure regulator is AFTER the injectors. Guess it uses a back-pressure theory though I'm not sure. There is a line going back to the tank where, if there is no vacuum at the regulator, that line is closed causing a buildup of pressure on the front side of the regulator where the injectors are. Personally, I wouldn't have designed it this way but... oh well

There is a vacuum line that goes directly from the intake manifold to the FPR. Inside the FPR is a diaphragm with a valve. At idle when engine vacuum is high, it opens the valve lowering fuel pressure. At higher RPM's when engine vacuum is low, the valve closes increasing fuel pressure. If this line is missing or broken, you will run a high pressure

Once again, this forum proves it's value. There may be issues that we can't resolve but there are many that we can. Glad yours was one of the 'easy' ones.

shouldn't be more than 43 psi. The injectors work on a pulse duration rather than a volumetric measurement so I would guess that you could certainly be getting too much fuel through the injectors.

only thing I can think of right now is if the timing were off 180 degrees and you weren' firing on the compression stroke. but... you didn't experience this following a T-belt change. When cranking, you're sure the cams are spinning? I'm guessing that you checked for a broken t-belt. I had a 92 Honda that did the EXACT same thing. It turns out it was an ignition module (looked like a credit card but a little thicker) that resided in the distributer. I replaced that and problem went away. Now... could that be pointless information? Does the pathy use an ignitor module or is it driven from the ECU? not sure. engines are basically simple. You need air, fuel and fire. You need them at the right time. If you're anywhere close, you will get 'something'. Sounds like you have nothing. Air flow wouldn't just stop. You said you have fuel from the injectors (though I'd pull a plug and look for wet) Spark? Pull a plug and hold it against a good ground. Should see sparks when cranking. If spark is there.... must be a timing issue. My suspicion is that you do not have spark.

easy to tell if the alarm is being set... arming would be a single high 'beep' disarming would be a double medium 'bat bat' sound arming with a open sensor would be a single lower 'blaat' Other way is to lock all doors and close the door. If, after 30 seconds, the system arms (beep and change in flashing alarm light), you're good. If it fails to arm, you have something open. When I first got my 95, I could never passively set the alarm. Finally figured out that the connector the the alarm brain under the seat had a bent pin and it thought my hood was always open.

on your center console shoule ba an alarm switch with 3 positions and a little light OFF - the alarm is off Impact off - the alarm is on but the impact sensors are off (not sure I fully understand this one myself) ON - the alarm is on. Your fob has 2 buttons... small round one is the panic button. hold it in for a few seconds and you should trigger your alarm. It'll beep a couple times first before going crazy Othe button is not round. THis is the remote entry button. Push it and your truck (if the alarm is not off) should beep once and lock doors and arm alarm. Push it again, you should get 2 beeps, the interior light turns on, the doors unlock and your alarm is off. If you get a nice crisp beep, that's good. If, when locking, you get a lower raspy beep, something is not closed and your alarm will not be armed. Passive arming can be done by locking your doors and closing them. the system will arm itself after 30 seconds and chirp when it does.

Glad to hear that you sucked it up and did it yourself. I often looka t what a job would cost from the dealer (like 300 for a timing belt) then subtract off the actual parts cost (about 20 bucks for the t-belt) and come up with a cussing factor. Is it worth the cussing factor to go through the aggrivation to do it myself? Usually is.

I read somewhere that the XE lacks the support in the body where the tire carrier would be bolted. I could be wrong but a search could probably confirm or deny that. Personally, if I wanted to free my internal room (the XE carries the spare inside the truck), I'd opt for a basket and tire holder for the roof. Much more options and looks better too (IMHO)

you can get a real good idea of trim levels and stuff from Edmunds but I'm not sure if the CDN ones are covered there

man... I've been following along and this has me baffled too. I'd love to be able to point to something specific but this maybe a multi-failure. If I can think of any diagnostics or anything, I'll post. Silence does not mean you are being ignored, I'm just still thinking and looking at some diagrams.

rough idle and dying sounds suspiciously like a MAF problem

grind out the rust, smear a sheet of aluminum with roofing cement and pop-rivet it in place, smear the bottom side of the truck with some form of undercoating and throw a floor mat down on the inside. Sealed and supportive. and cheap.

cross-drilled and matched is the way to go... rotors AND lines

plus, you might be able to recover a few $$ by selling the fuel injectors to Slick

definately the oil pan and such. Swapping from a 2wd into a 4wd eliminates the frame/crossmember considerations etc. My suggestion is to buy the one from the 2WD and when you pull yours, set them side by side (which you'll probably do anyway to swap your components over) and look for any other differences that would impact the installation. You should be fine.

tranny is genuine nissan ATF or equiv Dexron II power steering should also be Dexron II or equiv. at least that's what my SM says for my 95

replacing the rotors on an '02? why? I have my original OEM on my 95 and have no problems stopping whatsoever (except that time I killed the jeep)

update... leaving for soccer today... clicky clicky, no startey. Crawled under and beat it with a hammer. Started fine. After soccer, with fingers crossed, started fine. Leaving tonight to go help at the church, click. Crawled under with my hammer... WHAM... turned the key and started. Trying to come home tonight(pouring down rain)... click click... WHAM... click click... WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM... click click... *#&%&!)&%)!#&!@*($)@$*&(%_)%*!#_(%*WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM (#*$&)!#$&)#!$&)!#&)!#&)!.... click click... SH!T!!!!!! Guess what I'm doing Monday morning? grrrrrrrrrr! Gotta tow it home and get it fixed before noon as I have a training class from noon to 4pm.