k9sar

I cut my connector out and just soldered in replacement wires for my FL. My battery had leaked and dissolved it. read here

sounds like you have bypassed the ignition circuit when you installed the starter. Check to make sure you did not reverse the wires on the starter (though I think that's impossible) Also, there is a chance that the starter solenoid is f'd and throwing constant 12V to the starter but if it was new, you wouldn't expect that. The starter has basically 2 wires, a constant hot and a hot via ignition circuit. The solenoid is so you don't fry your ignition switch. When you turn your key, you throw 12v to the solenoid on the starter. This is through a connector and not the big red wire (which is why I don't think you crossed them). The 12V to the solenoid throws a switch and connects the constant hot (big red wire) so the starter cranks the engine. Try disconnecting the connector on the solenoid. If it still cranks, your starter is bad (the solenoid switch is thrown all the time). Also, check the voltage on your connector to make sure that you only have 12V when the ignition switch is turned on. If it's constant 12V, I would think a faulty ignition switch.

inside the latch mechanism on the door. When you close it, the D-shaped ring is not only grabbed by the latch mechanism but it pushes up a rubber switch inside the latch. Open the door, throw some light up inside the latch and poke a little with a screwdriver. You'll find a rubber wedge shaped thingie that moves. That's it. I believe you can get at the wiring from inside if you pull the panel but I've never been there.

I never could find a burp screw on mine. I just park on a steep hill with the nose up, fill it, run it with the heater on and usually get it full enough that the overflow bottle cycling will top off the rest.

pain int he ass to replace one unless you use a zip-boot or split-boot application. then it's simple.

you can easily eliminate the tack tack tack. Just to the right of your steering column is a snazzy little device called a radio. It has a knob. Turn it clockwise until the tack tack tack goes away.

I have both the books for 95 and the online versions. I prefer to use the online and only print out the things I need. Especially when a procedure calls for referencing another procedure somewhere elsde in the book. No need to print the whole thing out. There are lots and lots of pages that I have never even looked at and I do a lot of work on my truck.

looking at the 95 FSM, it appears that the removal and assembly is fairly straight forward.

check your codes. Mine does that from time to time but clears up when I blast through a big mud puddle may be the o2 sensor (code 33)

you can get a 'real' 95 manual online for free. It's the same as the printed version thought he 95 manual was really a 94 manual with a 95 suppliment.

LOL. I used to work in a medical book distribution center. I had quite a large order shipped to my college, in my name, to pick up personally. No luggage and all my stuff was there when I arrived.

I'm sure you could 'hot wire' a switch closed. THrow an ohm meter on the elads and check to see if "closed" is an open or closed circuit configuration then snip or solder the wires accordingly. I had my alarm periodically going off when my rear door wasn't latching completely (lights flicker on while driving... common problem). When a strong gust of wind would happen overnight, it was enough to make the rear hatch open just enough to trigger the alarm. I wish there was a code that told you what sensor triggered it.

if it'll fit in a flat rate USPS box... it's only 8 bucks to ship

old head... snicker

here

since it only clicks while NOT in 4WD, put that side up on a jack and turn the wheel by hand to see if you can isolate the noise. If it happened in 4WD, I would guess a CV joint about to go but you might just have something in your hub. I'll either post or PM you the hub exploded diagram for the 95.

let us know if you need a diagram of the hub assembly. We have them for the 94/95 models

don't get a scratch on the way to the mall lookin good JJ

DAMNIT! Now, all a carjacker will have to do is point a gun at your pathy and it'll surrender itself.

losing some weight would help too.

might be at the sending unit or coming from the rear seal and dripping out of the trans housing. if you are really concerned by a single drop of oil, crawl under and hold a stick vertically from the drop to see where it dripped from. You should then be able to track it to the source.

though my 95 has the old style connector. The FSM has the info if the PDF doesn't help.

note: sometimes doesn't work. I usually work on my pathy with the wheels up on ramps so I would imagine that if you used jack stands under the frame and let the front droop, you'd have the clearance to slide it out. I can neither confirm nor deny this claim as I have only changed my starter once and it was a royal PITA! of course, maybe Thomas has one of those little sissy starters

ATTN PEZZY

BASTAGE!!!! anyway... Welcome back Jim Glad to see you have kept the weight off and it sounds like things are settling down for you. Awesome news. Please don't make this a flash-in-the-pan post. We'd love to have you back here as a regular. Besides, we need you to get Aaron, Dan, Carri and the other moderators under control. Scott