k9sar

disassemble

I think those are .rar files which can be decompressed with a free utility if you don't already have it. If you ned them in a .zip format, let me know and I'll check to see if I have your year's manual and host it temporarily for you to download.

is your spring missing or do you just think it's the problem? Chances are that the spring is fine (if it's there) and you just need to clean and lube the latch mechanism. If the spring is missing, I would say go to a local junkyard or maybe one of the many people in here with a parts vehicle could toss one your way. If you don't come up with one, post and I'll grab one on my next JY run (probably in a couple months) and thanks for using the search before posting

my transdapt OFR kit is a dual. I can get the part number off it if you wish. My skids are Black Panthers. They arrived quickly but I believe Marcel has had some slowdown due to issues in his personal life.

it would be interesting if it could lift to give a boatload of ground clearance.

Check your voltages. 12V constant on the big wire, 12V with the key turned on the trigger wire to the solenoid. If these are good, pull the starter and disassemble it until you can get a tthe bruushes and guts (keep track of where things go. There aren't a lot of parts but it's important that they get back to their original positions. When you pull the guts, hit it with a brush and clean all the carbon dust out of the grooves and suck. Make sure th brushes are making good contact and are not bound. If you don't need to retract the brushes to get it back together, they are at the end of their useful life. Anyway, once back together, bench test it (or driveway test it) Slap a jumper cable from the + battery to the pos lug on the main starter housing. Ground the case with the othe cable (clip flange where mounting bolts go and other end to the frame on the truck. Then run a test wire from the solenoid connector in the truck and you're ready to test. Step on the thing (or strap it to something solid) and touch the test wire to the solenoid connector. It should run like gangbusters (ignore any sparks). Pop it a few times to check consistency and then reinstall. You will probably get many more years out of it and possibly solve your problem. And.. more importantly.. will save the cost of at least 1 tank of gas by not buying a new starter.

yes, they are

plugs soaked with fuel will resolve themselves. Plugs nowadays are not as big of an issue. I just pulled some that had no electrode left but they would still fire bright.

describes exactly how mine sounded when I spun one. The mistake I made when I tried to fix it was that I didn't replace the bearing caps when I replaced the bearings. There was a little too much play in the one that spun and it hammered itself flat again. The crank shaft didn't have a mark on it. also, the oil feed hole in the connecting rod was clogged with shavings. If you are gonna repair, make sure to cleanout all the oil holes and crap. take your time.

my solution is to work an extra hour or two each week to cover the cost of filling my tank. Pathy is my daily driver so I have no other option at this point. Been modifying my driving though and have been averaging about 23mpg. even little things like coasting downhill in 'N', trying to stay off the brake, turning off the engine at stop lights or traffic jams, siphoning the neighbor's lawn mower, etc.

I second the thought of only disconnecting what you need in order to lift he intake out of the way. There are some things on the firewall side that are a PITA to put back if removed. I disconnected all my stuff at the front and flipped mine back towards the windshield last time I needed to get into things. Much easier to reconnect where you can actually see.

it looks so sad just sitting there

No problem. I found this site (actually, the old one) when I had an issue that I needed help solving. many years and a few thousand posts later....

I sold one of my rails (possibly both, I'll have to check) but it was only the rails. I have the injectors. All 6 were in perfect working order when I pulled the engine so I have no reason to believe that they wouldn't work. Step 1... pinpoint the problem(s).

you can read the computer if you slide the passenger seat all the way foreward and lean it to the dash, then recline the drivers seat so you can lay back and see it. A small mirror will help too. From your description of the smoke... white is condensation (can also be due to running rich or not firing properly). The blue is oil. Could be valve seal or rings etc. Once you get her to run steady, do a compression test on each cylinder and that may point to the culprit. There are diagnostic methods to determine if rings, etc at that point. As for what to replace... at a minimum, replace any that are bad. You'll probably have to remove your intake to get at them all but that's fairly easy. The number of injectors you replace may be driven by your availability of funds. I typically don't replace anything that isn't failing unless it's a real PITA to get to.

wow... that sounds like an interesting problem. If we go with the assumption that the hydrolock is fuel and it's injector failure, you need to identify which one it is. If you pull plugs and crank, you should be able to identify the cylinder with all the fuel in it. Pull the injector connector. put plugs back in and crank a tad. If it cranks (and even starts), the excessivce fuel is being told to go in by the ecu. If it locks again, it's a faulty injector and is stuck open. A leaky injector should throw a code... read the ECU. IF you determine it's a failed injector, post it. Lots of parts trucks around and I have a full set of spare injectors too. You can probably pick one up for much less than the hundred bucks or so new. went back and reread your last long post... sounds like you fried the solenoid. There is constant 12V big thick wire to the starter. When you turn the key, you throw 12v on a trigger wire to the solenoid that does 2 things.. one, it throws an armature and engages the starter to the flywheel. Second, it makes the connection for the starter to use it's 12V (hig amp) wire. If the coil in the solenoid fried and left things in a connected state (which would be tough since the disengage is a mechanical spring), it would do what you describe. Advice.. short bursts to the starter. If it thunks or doesn't turn, stop.

trucks not quite up to snuff yet. I can't put my skids back on until I extract a couple broken bolts (or drill them out)

yep... that'd be my guess too

NIORA's next weekend

the cookie sheet I used was fairly thick... not one of those little thin ones. I cut and shaped it to fit over the hole with an inch or two around it for adhesion. I cleaned the surface of the floor (the best I could do in the parking lot) and put a THICK bead of silicone sealant around the hole so there would be no air leak (or water leak) around the cookie sheet. I shoved the cookie sheet into place and pressed down hard to make sure I had a complete seal around it. I put 2 silicone hot-pads on the cookie sheet for insulation before I laid the carpet back down on it. Put the trim back on to hold the carpet in place and ... viola. I drive barefoot and do not feel the heat through the floor anymore. I also suggest a good undercoating once completed. This will help keep it from rusting further.

nice... a sardine in the airbox intake

WTF is a "Nub" anyway?

hmmm.... the old engineering mind is visioning a modified toilet bowl float to cut power to the ECU in the event of flooding.... ring ring... ..Hello? Hey McGyver... I've got a new one for ya...

duct tape would have melted.

yep. Mine burned clean through. Hole throught he floor pan, carpet padding smoldering, the whole works. Repaired it with a cookie sheet, some silicone caulking and a couple of silicone hot pads. the link