k9sar

get a replacement from Rockauto. fairly cheap. Easy to replace once you open the door panel. 2 bolts.

Thread the insert onto an old sparkplug (with a crushed washer), knurled side furthest closest to the washer, smear some hi-temp RTV around the insert and carefully thread it into the hole. Now for the tricky part.. As soon as you hit resistance from the washer coming in contact with the seat, STOP. If you tighten any more, you will probably remove the insert with the sparkplug. With a quick twist, start the removal of the sparkplug. This tool a few tries and a little bit of intentional buggering of the threads on the insert so it would bind to the head better but if all goes well, your insert should remain in the hole and be flush with the plug seat. Verify with a probe, screwdriver, borescope, whatever. Tape an extension to the punch tool (I just used a steel axel from a lawnmower) and carefully insert the flaring tool into the insert. Smack it a couple of times to spread the first couple of threads and driver the knurls into the aluminum. Wipe (don't spray) any residual RTV from the sparkplug seat. You can now either wait several hours for the RTV to set or carefully thread in a new (uncrushed washer) sparkplug until it's snug. SLOWLY torque to 15 ft-lbs. This was the most nerve wracking part. Replace the coil and reinstall the guards/shields. Let the RTV cure overnight and it should be good to go in the morning. NOTE: It is important that you use a new sparkplug when you do this as the crush-washer will conform to any variation in the seat introduced by the insert and knurls.

Grease the tap and start cutting, approximately 2 to 3 threads at a time, cleaning and regreasing after each set. Once you get completely through, us a small, long screwdriver to remove any excess grease in the hole. Use a piece of tubing attached to a shop vac and suck out as much foam as possible. Shavings will come with it. Use compressed air to blast out the remaining foam. Clean the hole with brake cleaner (will break-down grease and soap foam) and use more compressed air to cleanout the hole.

As promised, here are some pictures. I removed the engine cover as well as the plastic shield over the radiator. This allowed easy access to the sparkplug holes. Here you can see the damage to the sparkplug hole Using a drinking straw stuck on the end of the shaving cream can, I filled the cylinder with foam.

So anyone who knows me on facebook knows what I'm up against but here's the story. I'm posting here because my Odyssey forum is much less active and this may be of help for my pathy peeps. My wife's van was getting a P0305 code which is a misfire on cylinder 5. It would periodically clear itself so I didn't rush to get to it. Several days ago, I decided to determine if the problem was with the #5 coil or the spark-plug. The Odyssey has individual coils for each cylinder. I planned to clear the codes and swap the coils between #5 and #6. This would tell me if it were a bad coil or a faulty plug. #6 came out nice and easy but #5 would not budge. I eventually had to rip the coil head off and try to get some PB Blaster down the sides to release the rest from the deep well it was in. Within a couple of hours of digging, twisting, swearing, pulling etc, I eventually had the coil parts removed. As I was cleaning out the sparkplug well, I noticed that the sparkplug itself rattled a bit in the hole. Not good. I pulled it out and this is what I had: Here is a close-up of the sparkplug: So after a few days researching options, I decided on tapping the spark-plug hole and putting in an insert for new threads. Heli-Coil makes a kit shown below (Thanks Adam) As for the process, I did pull all other coils and plugs to make sure this was the only problematic one and did a fairly good cleaning on the well for #5 such that a new coil will slip in easily. There was a lot of gunk buildup in there. I plan to do the following steps for the repair: 1. Set cylinder #5 at mid-stroke. I want to minimize the void but need to be far enough down so it doesn't interfere. 2. Using a straw, fill the cylinder with cheap-sh!t foam shaving cream (isn't this use where it got it's name?) 3. Fill the grooves of the tap with a thick grease 4. Slowly tap the sparkplug hole, taking care not to go too fast and to frequently remove it, clean it of shavings and then re-grease it 5. Once tapped, remove the tool and reach in with forceps to grab any visible shavings that escaped the grease 6. a shop-vac and a piece of tubing to suck as much shaving cream out of the cylinder as I can, along with any suspended shavings 7. use an air-gun with an extension down into the cylinder to blow out the remaining shaving cream/shavings 8. Clean everything well with carb or brake cleaner, using air or cranking engine to blow any crud out 9. Make sure new threads are clean and dry 10. Thread insert, knurled end first, onto a new sparkplug and coat the outside with high-temp RTV or thread-lock(red) 11. thread assembly into the newly cut hole. The sparkplug lip should keep from running the insert any further than flush with the head 12. Carefully remove the sparkplug and pray that the insert does not come back with it. If it does, I have a plan using a back-tap 13. insert the set-tool and smack it good with a hammer to spread the knurled part into the aluminum to hold it in place 14. One final cleaning then install the new sparkplug and coil 15. If using RTV, let it sit overnight to cure, preferably 24 hours. If using thread-lock, run the engine to temp to cure the thermoset plastic In theory.... this should all work. I'll update the post if there are any changes

The first weekend I had my truck, I did a bunch of off-roading in the desert southwest... in white-thorn Mesquite. Good thing I had a bottle of black Turtle-Wax Color-Back polish. Took all of those scratches right out

many years ago, I just spliced in 3 random wires I had laying around. Guess that wasn't the correct fix but it has work ever since.

Here's back when I did mine http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/9142-poor-mans-lift

I'll try to find my thread. I know I posted before/after pics when I lifted mine.

I looked at the member map and do not see anyone from Iceland. Perhaps someone just left their location information off. Is anyone out there in Iceland or anyone been to Iceland fairly recently? I have a niece who is going there on Monday for a week and she has no real scheduled plans. Was wondering if there is any first-hand experience/suggestions of things to see or do.

So the new(to me) pathy is periodically throwing a P0430 code which indicates an inefficiency in the catalyst system bank 2. I have read that a bad O2 sensor can cause this but I would expect an O2 sensor code if that were the case. I'd rather check this first before replacing the front DS cat. So here's my diagnostic logic.. I should be able to remove the O2 sensor from behind the DS cat and swap it to the other side (PS). Not sure how the wiring is but I would think there is a plug or something that I can disconnect that will allow me to swap the sensors but leave the wiring intact (as if I were replacing the O2 sensors). I'll reset the codes and let the wife drive it for another few weeks to see if a code returns. one of the following should tell me my next step(s): 1. P0430 returns - must be a bad CAT or bad O2 sensor harness wire since it remained on bank 2. visually/electrically check wire and probably replace cat. 2. P04xx throws indicating inefficiency on Bank 1. This would say my O2 sensor is bad 3. No codes - must have been a bad connection or something that got resolved when I swapped the sensors. Sound like reasonable logic?

Haven't had time to work on the 2005. Been buying and working on a car for the kid to take to college and having the wife's van fixed. For now, she has claimed the great-white-beast and I can only hope I get it back once her van is done.

but the important part is that it's getting fixed.

Decided it's finally time to let her go. Bought a 2005 Pathy and a small 4-door sedan in the past few weeks and need some relief on my car insurance bill. The 95 is the oldest of all my vehicles and will probably need a couple hundred dollars of work before inspection in October. I'm not sure I want to drag it along through another year. Now to decide whether to sell it whole, in parts or simply scrap it at the local yard.

definitely an aftermarket security system

well... the time may have come. Still sounds like a tooth off on the timing. Like you said, it recently happened and the pulley being off has longer history

I got my front axels from rockauto and have had no issues with wear. Just my 2 cents

That statement scares the hell out of me. Didn't think you could do such a thing.

My 95 caught fire pulling a boat up a long hill. Floor pan under drivers side had rusted through and the hot exhaust ignited the carpet pad. You claimed the exhaust was really hot, perhaps something similar?

is that a remote start thing? definitely looks aftermarket. Perhaps you can clip the zip-ties and get a look at the thing to see if there is any brand/model/etc info on it that you can google and figure it out.

Sorry to hear of your issues but I can't help here. The R50's are not my area of expertise. Hopefully this bump will stimulate more traffic and get you some answers.

lol. guess I should have read the original post. Missed the 'it died' part. I have not heard of an ECU burning up but I suppose it's possible. If you pull the seat and ECU cover, shove your nose there and sniff. If it fried, it will have a definite burnt smell and maybe even some melt indication on the cover or connectors. if this is the case, get the numbers off the ECU and post. I might still have a spare that I pulled form a junkyard. Don't think they are completely interchangeable so matching a model or part number would be best. (23710-85P##)

I would think the blower resistor is causing it. Pretty common if you get crap in there. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/7466-how-to-prevent-fire-clean-blower-resistors/

Factory OEM bought from the dealership when I bought the pathy. Additional parts needed were the 2 inserts for where the fog-lights are stock, allowing the brush-bar to mount there and put the fogs on the bar. I always thought the ones with the headlight wrap-arounds were after-market

With my 95, the main part bolts under the bumper (where the tow-hook was before you remove it) and then it also bolts in where your fog-lights are. I needed different trim pieces to allow for the mount points and move my fogs to the guard. You can see the part I have the bungee cord hooked to.