k9sar

Had the pressure sensors in all 4 tires replaced and the slow leaks resolved in my 05

does not look stock to me

Anyone ever replaced their TPMS sensors and program the system? I've heard rumor that there is a sequence that does not involve a special device but have not gotten specific feedback on the pathy. The searches have turned up Infinity's and Frontiers.

coleman fuel. Gets rid of oil and grease but dries the hell out of your hands. Wash afterwards with soap and water to get rid of the naphthalene smell

That's when you need the screwdriver removal technique

I lube the gasket with a drop or two of oil then tighten it until it makes good contact (starts to snug) then I crank it another 1/4 turn

did you try wiggling the connector on the top of your MAF?

not sure but you can try ebay etc.

disconnected the positive post on the battery. Got home yesterday and the stupid truck was squeaking and chirping. Apparently, leaving it un-driven for 3 months and being in the teens out, the battery decided to crap out/in/etc and trigger the alarm (which was a terrible sound with a dead battery). I opened the door and it stopped.... not enough juice to squeak anymore. Still waiting for my replacement title so I can get her sold.

lol... guess your lock cylinder is fubar'd Has the truck ever been broken into or stolen?

check your polarity. LEDs are very particular about which direction the current flows

bought my 95 new in March of 95

ordered a replacement title. Getting ready to sell the 95

I have a factory one in my garage that isn't going back on the truck. It's in PA though and shipping would be costly

I used my roo-bar to tie ropes to when I was rappelling out in New Mexico. Also worked well for running through brush but when it comes to impacting something of size, they do more damage than not. Go big or go without.

check/wiggle the connector on top of your MAF. Always an easy check for something that can seriously F*k with your ability to run

is this rigid line or flex?

Van is running great. Gonna pull the coils and plugs and do a compression test before winter but I hesitate to even try to pull the 5 plug and risk the insert coming out.

thanks for sharing your story. I'm sure it will help some other folks who wander in here looking for ignition/starting solutions.

what stud? lol. no, the stud is there for the tensioner spring. no roller.

I installed mine (several years ago) using the seatbelt through the seat as in the picture and there was an additional anchor strap with a clip on it. I fed that under the headrest and down to the floor-mount that is there to hold the cargo net.

yea, I think they were 3 bucks each when I bought mine. If one broke, the other may not be far behind

get a replacement from Rockauto. fairly cheap. Easy to replace once you open the door panel. 2 bolts.

Thread the insert onto an old sparkplug (with a crushed washer), knurled side furthest closest to the washer, smear some hi-temp RTV around the insert and carefully thread it into the hole. Now for the tricky part.. As soon as you hit resistance from the washer coming in contact with the seat, STOP. If you tighten any more, you will probably remove the insert with the sparkplug. With a quick twist, start the removal of the sparkplug. This tool a few tries and a little bit of intentional buggering of the threads on the insert so it would bind to the head better but if all goes well, your insert should remain in the hole and be flush with the plug seat. Verify with a probe, screwdriver, borescope, whatever. Tape an extension to the punch tool (I just used a steel axel from a lawnmower) and carefully insert the flaring tool into the insert. Smack it a couple of times to spread the first couple of threads and driver the knurls into the aluminum. Wipe (don't spray) any residual RTV from the sparkplug seat. You can now either wait several hours for the RTV to set or carefully thread in a new (uncrushed washer) sparkplug until it's snug. SLOWLY torque to 15 ft-lbs. This was the most nerve wracking part. Replace the coil and reinstall the guards/shields. Let the RTV cure overnight and it should be good to go in the morning. NOTE: It is important that you use a new sparkplug when you do this as the crush-washer will conform to any variation in the seat introduced by the insert and knurls.

Grease the tap and start cutting, approximately 2 to 3 threads at a time, cleaning and regreasing after each set. Once you get completely through, us a small, long screwdriver to remove any excess grease in the hole. Use a piece of tubing attached to a shop vac and suck out as much foam as possible. Shavings will come with it. Use compressed air to blast out the remaining foam. Clean the hole with brake cleaner (will break-down grease and soap foam) and use more compressed air to cleanout the hole.