k9sar

I second the trail spare idea. I left part of my CV in a mudhole one time and needed a pull up the hill since my 4WD was then shot

Paid for a shop to install new shocks and struts back in March because it was too damned cold for me to work on it outside and I knew there would be issues with the install and it would not be a simple bolt-in replacement (I was right. rusty bolts and upper end replacement needed). Since then I've had clunking when going over bumps. Didn't think much of it since the truck is relatively new to me and maybe it was always clunky and I just didn't hear it over the radio. Anyway, now I'm wondering if they were ever seated properly or if something was left loose. Any suggestions as to where I should start looking (after I fix my riding mower and finish my paver steps and landing)?

used it to drag my riding mower uphill from the backyard shed so I can rebuild the engine in my garage

Sorry to hear about Mike's passing. He was with us from the beginning and always a great source of knowledge.

When I did mine, the rear adjustable shocks no longer were happy. I never really used the SPORT/COMFORT settings anyway. I would suggest new shocks that add a few inches of travel compared to stock. I put Monroe shocks on my old 95 but I have seen other people using Rancho shocks

I used to keep a couple of large clear recycling bags (drum sized) tucked away. Multi-use.... can be for trash, can be used as seat covers when you have to dig yourself out of a mudhole and don't want to get your interior muddy, can be used to keep gear our of rain, can be used as a tent (if you are creative) or to just keep rain off, can be used to wrap a body in, ... lots of uses and they take almost no space.

consider adding a spare battery cable with clamps on both ends, a set of jumper cables and a package of lightweight welding rods.

Next time it doesn't crank, test the voltage on the battery posts (will probably read 12), then check the voltage on the battery clamps. may read less. A bad connection to the battery will certainly cause intermittent no-start. If you want to test your battery directly, hookup your multi-meter directly to the posts and crank. If the draw down is to 9 volts or less, you have a bad battery. If not, I would clean and reconnect your cables as step 1.

Perhaps that should be complimented with "in and out of the hospital" too. I'd freakin wait till he was out then grab a few buddies and beat the hell outta him... repeatedly

used it to carpool with my son on his first day of his internship at my company

The only thing I use champion plugs for is to break into pieces so I have a piece of ceramic to throw through the window of any A-hole who leaves their dog locked in a hot car.

The truck. makes it easy to refer to since we also have 'The car', 'The van' and 'The bike'

took my son out for driving lessons

Head gaskets are relatively easy to replace. While in there, go ahead and replace valve seals, etc. I picked up a full top-end gasket and seal kit for fairly cheap. Didn't use everything but it was good to have those gaskets that get damaged when pulling the top off the engine.

Parked it where my 95 used to sit.

You can also use your timing belt to hold the cam sprockets. I have done this with other vehicles but you keep the timing belt on one of the sprockets and drop the loop down far enough to slip a 2x4 or something through it below the frame. Clamp the belt together with a pair of vice-grips or a C-clamp as close to the sprocket as you can. Then, step on the 2x4 to hold tension on the belt while loosening (I suppose you could tighten this way too) the bolt.

also, if the cams are scored from the old seals and are leaking out from behind the sprockets, there are sleeves that can be purchased that will fit over the cams and give a new surface for the seals to .. well ... seal. Not hard to install. If you are concerned about the valves possibly hitting the pistons, you can always remove the rocker arms and relieve the tension on ALL the valves so they are out of the way. I don't think it will be necessary but the option is there.

Set the engine at TDC before taking the timing belt off. This will make it easier to put back on. Once you take the timing belt off, don't crank your cam. If any of the valves are open, the piston could impact and bend your valve stems. These are interference engines. As far as alignment when putting things back together, many belts have lines on them indicating the proper spacing between the cams and crank. I forget the exact count but they are on the site somewhere. Don't worry about the cams rotating a little.... just don't crank them completely around or force them if there is resistance. The holes in the cam pulleys are great for placing a brace of some kind to allow you to break the bolt loose. Be creative... I saw someone use a big pair of needlenose pliers stuck in 2 opposite holes and then a big adjustable wrench on the pliers to hold it all from rotating. I personally just used a big screwdriver and found a place to wedge it against the back cover.

For the idle issue, I would understand if it were a high idle to warm the engine when cold but this is only a few seconds (no more than 10). Maybe it is to get the oil pressure up. dunno. Definitely different than any vehicle I have owned. For the oil pressure... I don't recall ever seeing it fluctuate that dramatically. Never goes low enough to be 'bad' but the range seems to be much more than I am used to. Again, could just be the nature of the sensor. Neither issue has me worried that there is a problem. Still learning the truck.

I mounted my offroad flag using those holes on the flat pieces.

Threw a box in the back that contained the front and rear climate control units and a missing piece of roof rack trim. Received from Brian Crampton (look on Facebook for contact info). Waiting for reasonable weather to do the install.

Still getting the feel for my new-to-me 05 pathy and have a couple of items that seem odd but may be normal. Any other R51 owners, please chime in with your observations. 1. When I start the truck in cold weather using the key only (no gas pedal), the engine revs up and holds at a fast idle for several seconds then drops down to what I would consider to be a normal idle. When I start it the same way after driving for awhile, it does not do that. Is this a 'feature'? 2. Watching my oil pressure indicator, it seems to fluctuate quite a bit with engine speed. During normal driving, the needle is midway in the normal range but, when I stop, the needle drops to almost out of normal. It also jumps up and down when I rev the engine. I don't recall my other vehicles doing that. Does the oil pressure fluctuate that much? I have short videos of each of these if needed. Would have to upload off my phone which I don't have with me right now.

Took it to my local tire shop. 2 of my sensors were not reporting and the other 2 I suspect were original as well. I heard there is a 10year or so lifespan on the sensor unit batteries that are molded into the units and not replicable so I went ahead and had them replace all 4 and take care of the bead-leaks. Got a good deal on the sensors and installs. Have not had a low pressure warning since the install a month ago.

interesting

new struts, new shocks, fixed a bad brake light and threw on new wiper blades.