Jump to content

k9sar

Members
  • Posts

    9,906
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

Everything posted by k9sar

  1. outfitted with new rubber. Got a good deal on a set of Yokohama geolander a/t g015's. Not nearly as good of tread as my old Coopers or BFG AT KO's but WAY less expensive.
  2. Mine becomes a radio issue... turn the knob up and the noise disappears
  3. put it up on 4 stands and ran it in 4wd to try to find the tapping I hear when I'm driving (based on wheel speed, not an engine noise). Quiet as a mouse. F#CK! Yanked and pulled on every suspension and exhaust component looking for what is 'loose' and makes the clunking sound on the drivers side when I hit bumps (not just a single thump, it has multiple as if something is loose). Everything is tight. F#CK!
  4. reassembled after replacing my lower ball joint(drivers side) and put the other ball joint (for passenger side) on the shelf until probably next month, Swapped the AT lines under the radiator to isolate the cooler from the radiator and prevent the SMOD.
  5. Glad to hear she's running again. As for the forum.... LOTS of old-timers and wrench-heads in here and I've always seen a fairly quick response from the 'hive'
  6. SO I am departing from Seattle on a cruise at the end of June and would like some feedback on transportation. Flying into SEA-TAC and staying at Cedarbrook lodge near the airport. What's the best way to get to the port? 6 years ago, I rented a car at the airport, shuttled the 10 of us to the port then left the car at the rental place a few blocks inland and walked back down. That was a lot of hassle. Looking for suggestions (or maybe even a volunteer with a van) on how to get 10 people from the lodge to the port and 5 people from the port back to the airport the following Sunday (half our party is splitting off for other adventures). THoughts?
  7. sounds like a bad connection to your battery. You can either test the voltage post-to-post and compare to voltage clamp-to-clamp or just beat the posts/clamps with a hammer or rock to knock the crap away and make better connection. If that's not the issue, check the voltage when you turn the key to the start position. A good battery will only draw down to 10+ volts while a battery with a bad cell will drop below 10. If that's not the issue, throw your meter on the heavy wire going to your starter and to ground. If you have 12V, its probably not the battery If you check voltage to the little wire to the solenoid (to ground) and turn the key to start... if no voltage, yo have a relay problem or ignition switch problem. If 12v, your starter is bad
  8. I didn't know there was such a thing. Thought you just had to purge the system and refill with R134a. . I don't recall ever filling mine though. Always blew cold for me.
  9. took advantage of the abnormal 70 degree weather in February and found the source of a faint knocking and most likely my CEL that was complaining about the efficiency of my Cat-conv. Apparently, former maintenance had improperly secured the harness to the O2 sensor and it was rubbing on the drive shaft with the connector was hitting the boot clamp.
  10. We recently had a few inches of snow in the area and I went out to play in my '05. I get annoyed by the gritty rumble in the brake pedal when I slam on the brakes and slide but I don't think there is any way to turn off the ABS without physically disabling it. The other system I'm not a fan of is the one that detects if your tires are slipping on acceleration and bogs down the engine to try to get traction. Sometimes powering through it is the best option for slippage. At least that has a way to turn it off with the button below climate control. One thing I have noticed though and I don't know if it's normal or not is there is a slightly higher pitched crunchy noise that seems to come from the front of the vehicle when I am slipping on acceleration and don't get off the gas. Seems to be more when turning and it's not immediate, almost like it's thinking "hey dummy, I tried to help by killing the engine but now I'm going to do something else because I think I'm smarter than you". What the hell is this? Anyone else have this "feature"? My first thought was that it sounded like the stupid truck was trying to engage 4WD on its own and grinding into it but there is no "AUTO" setting on the 4WD selector. Haven't had the time to read through the owners manual or FSM to see if this is expected or not. Ideas?
  11. Mine was a bad idler pulley, simple to replace
  12. Glad to hear it was something simple. I had a head gasket breech between the cylinder and the water jacket and it would force an overheat and blowing fluid out through the overflow. I nursed it home by driving for about 5 minutes, stopping, cooling, refilling radiator, driving another 5 minutes, repeat. Stealerships have something that can detect exhaust gases or something in the coolant and it confirmed my suspicions. It was obvious when I pulled the heads off and looked at the gaskets.
  13. I had a bad connector on top of my MAF that would make it run like crap when the hood was closed but ran fine with it open. Apparently the harness on top was making just enough contact with the underside of the hood to flex some wire and break connection. I rebuilt the connector and it ran fine for years after that. Quick check is to wiggle/flex the wiring on the MAF while it's running and see if it makes a difference
  14. Instrument panel problems are typically solder issues. There are many discussions in here dealing with them. I can't help with respect to where to get a new cluster etc since I use local u-pull-its and you are a few states away. For basic replacement parts, I use Rockauto.com. See vendor section for a 5% discount code as well. Glad the truck is running again and good luck.
  15. check for constant 12v on big starter wire. Check for 12v on trigger wire to solenoid only when ignition turned to start. If no voltage there, could be interlock. There are threads in here about bypassing (running new ignition wire). Wouldn't hurt to pull the starter out and do a little testing with jumper cables (just make sure to strap it down or stand on it). If the solenoid 'thunks' all the time and the starter doesn't spin sometimes, open her up and do a good cleaning, especially of all the carbon dust and oil that has dripped from the pressure sender (if it's anything like my old 95). I have some pictures in here somewhere about cleaning the starter guts. The key is to take a little time and systematically work your way through the system, bypassing, jumpering, etc until you isolate where the drop occurs. here's some info to read: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19559-electrical/?p=335151&hl=starter&do=findComment&comment=335151 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38736-wont-start-turn-key-lights-camera-no-action/?do=findComment&comment=732143 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20818-what-could-cause-starter-to-fail-like/?do=findComment&comment=361764
  16. Any issues with the TENN troopers and the black plate? Not sure how they would react in PA since the front plate is not required but there's no way in hell I'm tempting fate
  17. a battery may read fine until you put a load on it. If it draws down to 9V or below when trying to start, you have a bad cell and need to replace your battery. Normal draw down is to 10.5 or 11V or so if the battery is rated high enough in CCA for your application.
  18. When I bled mine, I used a long length of fishtank airline. Opened the bleed valve and crammed on the tubing. slipped on a small clamp just to be safe. ran the other end to the MC and held it in place with a clamp. Then I just got in the truck and stomped the hell outta the pedal until I stopped seeing air bubbles going past. Closed the valve and moved to the next wheel. Worked great.
  19. I would have guessed a brake pad loose. If the pads are worn enough and/or the rotor is damaged, you'll get a grabbing feel as well
  20. Repaired a sluggish and intermittent passenger window motor and replaced the rear fan/heater control unit
  21. I'll become familiar the next time I have spare wheels around and I can take my time. Kinda pressed for transportation at the moment Figure I have another 10 to 15 years on this truck
  22. Well, I'm up to my eyeballs in other projects and am trying to recover from a leg injury so I did the unthinkable.... I handed the keys over to the service manager at my local dealership and told him to give me a call when they pull it apart and let me know what they find. I told him my suspicions and he knows I've done the majority of my own work on my former '95 so I don't think they'll try to pull anything on me. I know there are some things that will most likely need to be repaired/replaced and some of them will be easier with the fan out and the front of the engine pulled apart so I asked him to put together a list with prices and I'll let him know what I'm comfortable just throwing money at so I don't have to do the work. If this were my old VG30E, I'd have had it torn down and halfway back together but I'm not yet fully familiar with the VQ40DE engine.
  23. Glad to hear it's running again. Good luck with the rack. Again, no experience from me on the R50s but I'll send my best wishes on a successful repair.
  24. the odd part is that the nosiest part is the stretch across the top of the timing cover between the two cams. I wonder if something broke loose (a cam guide or timing chain guide) and is up there rubbing on the chain.
×
×
  • Create New...