k9sar

open it and clean it out. make sur eyou brush the carbon dust out of the commutator slots

There aren't a lot of actual manufacturers of fuel pump. Even the BOSCH one I bought was made by Airtek

You do not NEED to pull the crossmember but it may help. I swapped mine without removing the tranny, t-bars or crossmember. Mahe sure you get all the tranny bolts. There's nothing like trying to slide uyour engine forward to disengage it from the tranny when there is a (#*@!^%(@!^%@! bolt still in the top of the bell housing. If you don't trust yourself being careful, you may want to remove the radiator so you don't bust it when the engine and tranny separate. If I recall, I had to jack up the tranny front and tilt the engine a bit to gain clearance over something but I don't rember what it was. Just keep that maneuver in the back of your mind. The more you remove from the engine, the easier it will be to remove (altenator, PS pump, etc).

worst case, get in there with a small wrench and/or screwdriver and disassemble the starter, taking it out in pieces. I did that the first time I removed mine since I couldn't find the magic way to get past the tranny lines

pictures have been deleted or moved. Can't see them. Anyone get a chance to see if this is a stock switch or not before the pics disappeared?

The alarm positions in the 95 SE are OFF, Impact OFF and ON. If you post a pic, I can tell if it is OEM

before tossing the starter, I would suggest opening it, cleaning all the crap out of it that has dripped in from your oil filter and sender unit, clean the carbon dust from the commutator and reassemble it. High probability that this is the failure you are experiencing. If it does not bench test at that point, time to get a new one. Also... I modified mine to fit better if I ever need t take it out. The problem is the shield/bracket that holds the solenoid to the starter housing. It is a bitch to get out. I removed my brace and simply used zip-ties to hold the solenoid in place. No problems ever since and it is easy to slide the starter past the tranny lines and out the front.

The first time I lost reverse, I was told that it was the pump that had started to go bad. Apparently, reverse takes a higher line pressure than forward gears and, when the pump goes, that is the first gear to depart. The second time I had tranny work done was due to my planetary assembly exploding.

I broke all of mine. Skinny little things just didn't hold up.

I guess I should use that search button, huh. My main concern was that a spray adhesive probably won't hold if the foam backing is deteriorating. Also looking for hints on removing the trim (cause I'm too lazy to search or read the FSM)

The headliner on the section running from the dome light to the drivers side has come off the underlying plastic and I almost lost it out the window. The covering is a vinyl, foam backed sheet of material that was apparently glued and tucked under the trim pieces. Anyone else had it come off? If so, how did you repair it? Looking for hints. I have an idea but was looking for experience on this topic.

when you get it back... look around in all the little hidey-places and maybe you'll find drug-money

about 10 minutes then hit it with a brush and rinsed it off. spot treated some areas of heavy buildup a second time.

yep. my paint was gone the first time I fired her up after the installation.

I used Easy-Off Max oven cleaner worked wonders Before During - just don't leave it on for a LONG time, it will eat the aluminum After (I could have given it another shot but I figure that this was good enough

My installation

for optimal performance, if you are running with cross-drilled or slotted rotors, you should get matching cross-drilled brake lines.

The 95's are notorious for having MAF connector issues. Even if you changed the MAF, the problem may still exist if the connector or wiring is bad. I rebuilt my connector so the wire didn't hit the underside of the hood and have not had issues with it since.

14 to 18 mpg is reasonable for a pathy. Anything above that must involve a long hill.

you can tell if the intake or exhaust ones are the problem by differentiating whether it blows stronger blue on accelleration or decelleration but... it's kind-of a moot point since you should replace them all if you go in there.

they started working fine again for a few weeks and now I'm back to the problem. I've been too busy to troubleshoot it and if you can't tell when I'm turning right, the heck with you.

could be the CV joints. As the balls wear, they 'pop' on the groove and cage.

nothing bad yet. No problem with the crossover pipe and I have an AT. I did get a little bit of an oil leak but I haven't crawled under to determine if it's my rear seal or my relo kit is leaking. I have noticed about a 3mpg improvement. I have a thread in here somewhere with pictures.

I put pacesetters on my 95. The only fitment issues were that the drivers side was hitting the heat shield over the motor mount so I had to snip that off. Since I replaced the entire exhaust system, there was no issue with mating to the existing system. I left everything a little loose, tightened the headers to the engine first then tightened everything else. I only had to modify one bracket about 1/2 inch but that's probably due to the cheap-ass muffler I bought.

as did I