k9sar

If you don't feel like removing the fender, there is a cutout near the battery that has a small wrapped wire pair coming out of the main harness and running back to the power antenna. THose are the wires that you would need to cut and splice in a switch.

let's see... I have 2 from the different NorEaster weekends, one from NIORA, one from NPORA, one from PAragon and one from Rausch creek. yep.. probably me

I took apart my power antenna to figure out why it wasn't working. While in the fender, I installed a cut-off switch between the antenna motor timer and the motor itself so I can leave the antenna up or down in the winter rather than fight with the ice and frozen mechanism.

I do but I'm not sure it says U-Haul anymore

I wasn't on Pawlings but I ran through the park and to sears on 23/724. Not silver but charcoal. Perhaps there is someone else in our area.

With three codes, I would be tempted to rese tthem and check again once the CEL comes on. Fix what triggers first since one failure could lead to others.

anytime you screw with the firing, you can confuse the ECU and throw a code. Once she's running, reset the codes and, if there really is a failure, it will show up again

and, to help keep these forums useful, please post what you find and what fixed the problem if you find it. If you do not fix it, fill us in as to what you find and we'll help you walk through the troubleshooting and eventual (hopefully) resolution. ps. my vote would be the connector on top of the MAF.

I repaired mine with a cookie sheet. Rusted through under my feet and the carpet caught fire one day hauling a boat. Cookie sheet, tube of caulk and a couple of silicone hot pads.... viola!

nope... tranny's shot. Take it back for another overhaul. just kidding.... if the sound was coming from under your feet, I would suspect something in the transfer case, otherwise, it just sounds like a hub issue especially since you say you have never used it in 4wd

I blew up a planetary assembly once. Lots of nasty noises then all was quiet.

found 2 of the three. I can try to get the size next time I'm at the local hardware store. It acts like a 5/16 x 24 but I'm sure it's a metric bolt.

I'll check my spare engine when I get home (If I remember). If I still have one, I'll send you a bolt

try this: 94FSM

LOVE LOVE LOVE the winter. Rear wheel drive pathy... Idiots who slide into ditch who are willing to throw you a few $$ to pull them out... Parking spots on snow piles that nobody else takes... yep... winter is my favorite driving time

Mine hasn't worked for years. Not a problem since now I don't have issues with the tailgate latch being loose. I turn off the rear light and ignore the floor lights.

Castrol GTX 5w30 for most if it's life but switched to Castrol High Mileage a couple of years ago. reason? It lubes and it's inexpensive. I throw in a bottle of Lucas and push my oil changes out to 10k since I have a leak in my rear seal and I replentish the oil slowly over time.

so if I read this right, you are looking at the ends of the bolts that are threaded through the flange on the starter. The bolt heads are on the tranny housing and accessed from the back. Sounds like there is not a problem.

I've done several from chrysler but never my nissan. Same thing applies... open, blow the crap out, make sure the bearings are lubed, brush out the commutator, endure good brush contact, reassemble

holy post-whore Jim... How many times are you posting this?

The easiest solution is to locate the rattle reduction knob located on your dash below the center air vents. This is obviously out of calibration so you will need to drive down a bumpy road and gradually turn the knob clockwise until you can no longer hear the rattle.

Funny... I've used a similar press for a bunch of different applications..... straightening my skids, straightening my bull bars, popping the bead on my tires, crushing a coconut...

is the grinding when you are trying to put it into 4WD (tranny problem) or once you think you are in 4WD and the indiator lite is on (front diff or hub problem)? One way to check is to put the entire thing on stands and put it into 4WD and let it idle. The rear wheels should move and you can slip under and check to see if your front shaft(s) are moving or not. I lost 4WD on a trail run but my indicator said I was in 4WD. Turns out I destroyed a CV joint

yep. just used the 5% myself buying a heater hose assembly for the wife's van.

$70 in parts... the rest is labor.