k9sar

yep. dead sensor. RockAuto here I come.

Noticed yesterday that my oil pressure reads maxed all the time (unless the truck is turned off). Even with the key just turned to the on position without the engine running, it flips to maximum. I know this isn't normal but my question is, for an R51, does the pressure read completely low or completely high when the key is first turned on? Can someone take notice and let me know? Deciding whether to chase a bad sensor or bad electrical.

took the easy and relatively cheap path and threw a pair of rear O2 sensors in it. Seemed fine but threw the same 420 code again after a couple of days. Checked with my scanner and it says the one HO2S test failed due to a reading of 0023 with a min of 0033 or something like that. Unfortunately, the damned thing doesn't tell me which sensor it's reading. Thinking I need to do some testing where I disconnect 1 sensor at a time to determine which is for which test then do some reading on what the fruck the measurements are really telling me. No way I'm replacing the cat.

Getting the dreaded cat inefficiency code and got to thinking what is really being measured. I know some people use a spark plug non-fouler but that only would work if the shop doesn't visually inspect the emissions. Has anyone actually modified the O2 sensor itself to get a 'tweaked' reading? I've seen videos on adding a resistor in series and a capacitor in parallel but that would be visible too unless it was hidden well. I was thinking of modifying the tip so not as much exhaust gas gets into the sensor. Disclaimer... t his is just for a test. I have ordered new O2 sensors but thought I'd mess around with the old ones to perhaps see what impact I could make on the readings. enough rambling.... if you've modded your O2 sensor, what did you do to it? Curious.

March and still going strong. I haven't swapped my fronts from the old design to the new design but will do so when the weather turns good. Not an issue for daily driver and light conditions but at full flex and load, the bolts could strip out of the spacer (old style only). I discussed this with Steve and he redesigned the front spacers to correct that issue before placing the kits for sale so you won't have to worry about my issue. As an engineer, I reviewed his solution and approve of it so even though I have not run the new design for the front, I am very confident that they will work fine.

My 79 year old mother's Cadillac SRX (part of my inheritance..eventually) suddenly lost brakes. She came out of a store and when she hit the pedal, it went to the floor. Brakes had been working fine up until then. About a year and a half ago, all the hard lines had been replaced due to corrosion and her pads were replaced about 6 months ago. Anyway, she was able to limp it to her house. I stopped over to take a look and found the following: Running or not, the brake pedal goes to the floor when pressed. The brake fluid reservoir is full. There are no observed leaks around the master cylinder or junction block for the rear lines. After pressing the brakes a dozen or so times to the floor, there was no brake fluid leaked onto the driveway or any leakage around the calipers. So immediately I thought... master cylinder failed and ordered a replacement. Removed the hard lines (2) from the master cylinder and capped/plugged them. Swapped the reservoir to the new master cylinder and filled it with fluid. plugged the ports on the MC and held it in a bench vice. Using an old push-rod from a blown dodge engine, I forced the piston in the MC until it was no longer burping air and the piston was unable to be depressed. I felt that was a successful bench-bleed so I installed it in the vehicle, including using a syringe to add fluid to the rigid lines before installing in the MC (barely took any so I'm thinking that no air should have gotten into the system other than maybe a tiny bubble. I was very careful not to introduce air since it was cold and pouring down rain and I didn't feel like crawling under and bleeding the system. Got everything tight and wiped down... got in the vehicle and tested the brakes..... right to the floor DAMNIT! so, now I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be. What could cause a sudden loss of brakes that did not involve a ruptured line or failed MC? My understanding of the vacuum assist is that there is a hard linkage there through the diaphragm so even if the VA failed, brakes would still work. Any thoughts on where to look next? oh yea, and some clown on the Cadillac forums tried to tell me that a loose hub or wheel axle would cause that since the piston on the caliper would have to push much further if it were loose. He obviously doesn't understand disc brakes.

Replaced the battery. The single digit weather in the northeast finally did it in and starting was a no-go. When I pulled the old battery out, I saw the date code on it.... C9. Damned near lasted 10 years!

Can I use the 'Report' function to report admins who seem to be slacking on their duties or are just too damned lazy to cleanout their inboxes?

If spring rolls around and you are still interested in doing skids, I'd be glad to work with you to get measurements, mock-ups etc.

Sorry... have been away from the computer for a few days. I have Yokohama Geolander A/T F015's on it. Stock size is 265/70R16 Camber bolts on my 05 are adjustable. Interesting to read Steve's comment about maybe 2005 being the only year. A quick crawl through parts lists or online parts sites may confirm that. I'm not sure what you mean by "at full droop" but my shop was able to get my alignment within spec without spacers/shims/etc. I think I'm going to add another 1" to the rear which will give me 1.5" front and 2" rear. That will give me a little more range/support when I fill the back end with gear/groceries/bricks/dogs/bodies/whatever

The best way to describe it is... gritty. It is more dry than moist but it is denser than cake. My grandmother used to make it in a cast iron skillet and we'd take it warm, smear it with butter and drizzle home-farmed honey over it. (mouth watering right now)

If anyone has any questions about installation, feel free to shoot me an IM. I did multiple installs to check lift height for different combinations of components so I learned a couple of tricks. Also, Steve's redesign of the front spacers (posts installed) solved the only issue that I found with the prototype design and that issue was not significant unless you are really stressing/flexing the front suspension. Be assured that Steve has safety in mind and has created a nice kit for the R51's.

Saw pictures of it on the product page of sfcreation.com ... and added oil

Started taking measurements and soaked some nuts with PB Blaster in preparation for installing a lift. Then stopped and fell in the pool since we're in yet another heat wave with indexes around 105 degrees F REALLY tired of summer right now.

does it rev if you put in the clutch and NOT put it in gear? I would expect that. With the clutch out, the engine is working to spin at least part of the transmission which is a load and reduces RPMs. If it spins up significantly when you push in the clutch, there may be something wrong in the tranny that is causing a lot of load on the engine even when in neutral.

I would have guessed the timing belt initially and it sounds like you f'd up the sequence when wiring the disty after replacing it. Are you positive you have the timing correct with respect to teeth between cams and crank? Also, how did the timing belt look that you took off? If it slipped, you probably want to do a compression check to make sure no valves were damaged. As for the swap, good luck and please start a build thread for it.

yea, saw that but also ran across mention of there being a procedure if there is not a reset switch on the motor. I'll admit that I got a little lazy on this and did not crawl through the FSM to see of the R51 pathy take the with or without motor assembly. I had not done any work (replace glass etc) or left the battery disconnected for a lengthy time that I can recall so I was hoping that the limit got screwed up accidentally by some sequence of holding the button too long, etc... otherwise it may be a mechanical failure of the switch itself. For me, it's only a little bit aggravating but the wife keeps calling me when she takes the truck and can't get the window to stay up.

Drivers side window, when using auto-up, will close completely then open about 3 inches. I've run across mention that this is a safety feature (so you don't decapitate your cat) and that somehow the window motor has 'forgotten' the upper limit or travel. Does anyone know if these trucks (2005 SE) have the limit reset button on the motor assembly or if the limit is reset through some sort of key/button dance?

Never saw option 2.. Sure, I'd definitely install them. Had new shocks and struts installed in march so I wouldn't even need to fight with rusted bolts

I would but I'm not close enough.

so I was hearing a strange noise coming from my pathy as I drove. It was definitely something related to movement and not engine speed. I put the entire truck up on stands, put it in gear and listened.... nothing. Anyway, finally got annoyed and did a little more troubleshooting. The noise, for the most part, goes away if I put the truck into 4Hi and comes back when in 2wd. I had my wife roll slowly in the street while I walked around the truck and listened... the noise is not more predominant on one side or another. I also made note that there was a 7 to 1 ration of 'clicks' to wheel rotation which tells me it's more on the tranny side (driveshaft etc) than the wheel side (cv joint, axel). Anyone know enough about how the tranny works on these models that can give me an idea of what is making the noise and how big of a pain in the ass it will be to fix?

Y'all SUCK! lol

Tried to slip the rear wheels accelerating from a stop sign on wet pavement. I could almost do donuts with my old Coopers but these Yokohama tires didn't slip a bit. Can't wait to try them on ice and snow.

the socket has a small metal retainer clip in it. There is probably some clever way to get hold of the ends and spread it enough to release the ball but it's easier to just be careful and pry the ball out of the socket. If you want to be sure to protect the glass, unbolt the ball (hold the outer part of the attach point if needed so you can unscrew the ball), then pry it apart or maybe you'll see the mechanism. Putting it back together is just as easy.... make sure clip is in place, grease the ball a bit and snap it together.

outfitted with new rubber. Got a good deal on a set of Yokohama geolander a/t g015's. Not nearly as good of tread as my old Coopers or BFG AT KO's but WAY less expensive.