Slick

third the notion.

yup. my relo kit is in almost the exact position Mr P's is (just reverse direction) and i unbolt the filter & bracket (from fender bracket) for removal, very little mess, and i put 3/4 of a quart of oil in the filter upon replacement. also, in regard to the concern about heat damage, i have had my relo kit on for 2+ years with no heat damage/problems, nor any rubbing of the lines.

welp..... king has 3" BL & 4" SL..... on 33's... and unfortunately, I rub the snot out of my bushwhacker flares when semi flexed and wheel turned (back of wheel facing "inside fender" will rub)...... and i have also managed to bend the fender itself. mods are needed for me. i have (i believe) 4" of BS. yes, my torsion bars are good. not sagging. mini came stock with 215x70x15's and damnit did she rub when i put the 31's on..... had to crank the t bars for her. i guess i just don't have much luck lol

this was JUST covered..... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11334 and several other links/topics covering this subject. ~~>

if it threw a rod. more n likely you will see the carnage if it fought its way out of the block. sorry to hear of another "death" in the pathy family

the P/N for the relo kit (perma cool) is Summit Racing: PRM-10695 nice job Mr P! lookin good.

just sent you a big, fat reply pm lol

here's a couple write ups i did when i did my first motor pull.. (i am on my 3rd pull, but on different trucks) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681&hl=

i had forgot about that... here was my reply: 21st Jul 2006, 23:24 I have a '92 Pathy and have had no issues what-so-ever with mine, though, gratefully, I do live on the west coast... I feel for those who do end up with frame rot, and, depending on the amount of damage, they can usually be repaired by reinforcement and good welding. To those who have yet to get this issue, but are beginning to wonder.. rust preventer's such as POR 15 and the such like are your saviours. Good luck! aaron (88) posted just above me...... and i can't remember who else posted on there the frame rot seems more commonly present in 94-95 models for some reason..... all my cali pathy's have uber clean frames, king's has slight surface rust due tot he fact he sat 5 years with mud on his frame, but mini (92) and piglet's (88) frames look like brand new. I am always offering to help someone purchase a cali pathy and have it shipped.. hell, i have 1 i am selling... what is cheaper... buying a clean frame pathy (not including all the spare parts) cheap, and shipping it for under $800, and doing a frame swap, OR, junking your pathy, going out and buying something new......

definitely worthwhile. i will be doing the upgrade SOON on mini me....... few things need to be changed, including the master cylinder, yes, they are slightly different...... no matter what anyone says.... lol. i notice the stopping power from king to mini (king is all wheel disk, mini is rear drum)....... and now i know why i want mini all wheel disk too.... especially as she tows the boat (also makes life easier when cleaning after playing in the mud)

one of my stud holes ended up looking like that after i couldn't get the busted stud out.... we used a tap to re-thread the hole and it is fine..... pushed the limit to the waterjacket, but didn't hit it.... the old stud had literally welded itself inside the stud hole.. we used the tap and re-threaded the hole and it has worked fine since..... if oyu paid for that mistake of theirs, get your $$ back or have them fix it, if not, re-thread it and move on with your header install

my aunt and uncle live in NJ, it snows, city salts...... when ever my aunt & uncle buy new cars, no matter what make, they take the vehicle to have the frames coated...... my uncle had a 72 chevy he LOVED, and used for everything, towing the boat, winter, summer, anything, and she finally died due to rust issues. after that, it was (as my uncle called it) "away with the frame".. which meant it was off for the new vehicle to be coated lol. seems to have worked, my aunt has had the same mercedez since 1986 and it's still immaculate. yes, nissan dropped the ball on these trucks, but so did other manufacturers as simon said... little, snow/salt free eastern countries do not think of the effects of winter weather on their cars (ha! they do now)..... it is sad when a pathy dies to rust, and i really wish i could just buy up ALL the unwanted pathy's here in CA and ship them to everyone who has rust issues. a pathy from CA to PA is only $700-900 shipped........and that's for a non runner...... it's not as expensive as people think. i paid less than $1k on 3 of my 4 pathys (less than $500 on 2 of em) and all 4 of em have immaculate frames. i just get so depressed at the thought of another pathy dying to this cancer.

if you like living dangerously, and attempting suicide. then drive it..... if you love life and prefer to live... get it fixed. and park it until you do

the ecm is what we usually call the ECU....... it's your computer that you checked the codes on

depending how strong those fancy "rocker panels" are, you can turn em into skidplates

if you want it bad enough, and can't afford to have it installed, you will just stop asking how hard it is and install it. it is not impossible, and not "near" impossible if you have 50% of your brain matter left and a good set of tools, a couple good friends and you're not illegitimate. air tools are a HUGE bonus. it is not a 2 hour install, but it can be done in a weekend. here is what a 4" TM SL looks like (excuse mud and other yuck down there.. but you get the idea)

meh, could be a lot of stuff.... leaky VC, RMS, residue from an oil change. i wouldn't worry about it unless you notice visible leaks on the motor...... all my motor mounts have crap stuck to em... they seem to be in a real good spot to get pooped on lol

wow! that completely sux........ definitely keep us posted with RR's replies

what side is "wet"?

motor mounts are not fluid filled, they are solid metal with a boot lookin thing on em...... so you are looking for broken or missing bolts, separation of the mount from the frame, or broken off from the actual engine block edit* there are 2 bolts that mount the motor mount to the frame, and 2 (or 3) more to the engine block. (14mm) here's a pic of a motor mount....

^^^^ what simon said. i don't drive king everyday, but i have 3"bl & 4" SL on 33's and no rear sway bar (whoops, broke that!). i have to take more caution around sharp turns, but he does just fine and still feels stable. make sure to get a really good alignment with 33's.... it gets costly if you don't rotate them or have a bad alignment. i have bushwacker flares, and my new 33's rub them pretty bad when my wheels are turned and i am on a slope.... even "redesigned" a bit of both fenders with them hitting

email smittybuilt too. they won't show one for a pathy on their site, but they do make 'em. bit high on the price tho. (upwards of $400)

these trucks are IFS (front) and coil in the rear... no struts. (or do you mean "shocks"? i know a few folks who call shocks "struts")

vibration of the motor is a good indicator, or a feeling of "imbalance" when driving over rough road, sometimes if it is completely busted it can actually jump a bit and clunk on landing.. they are easy enough to check, with a bright flashlight and a good eye. if a motor mount is broken, replace it.

*coughs up a fur ball* d'oh!