Slick

and oyu could've stopped at MY HOUSE and had a new one installed.. *sighs*

just an FYI if yer gunna keep it stock (or go no more than 2 sizes up on pistons). parts dinosaur quoted me $235 for a complete piston set (rings/bearings included)....

you drove RIGHT PAST MY HOUSE and didn't even stop by to say hi... sheesh.... *snorts*

painting the block.. well... first, you have to clean the sucker with gasoline (please don't smoke during this part...), make sure allt he crud, crap and festering whatever's are ALL GONE (have just the bare block btw).... then, cover the pistons and head surface as much as possible. **the best time to paint the block is AFTER the pistons have been cleaned, and ALL the head gasket crud is off the surface, this way, should you, like i, get any paint of the surfaces, you can easily remove it with acetone** anyhoo, once you have plugged any and all holes, put bolts in other holes, and covered the pistons/head surface, you can wheel yer special puppy outside n get to painting, i put 2 good coats on the purple turd. i used ENGINE PAINT from autozone/kragen's, i think it was $5 a can.. after rbackets n all, i used 2 cans of dodge plumb crazy purple. for the valve covers, i just used wal mart brand black gloss paint, 2 coats. lemme see if it will lemme post up pics today.... *prepares hammer if not* *bangs hammer on puter* apparently not.. check out these pics of before n after .... i took a LOT of time cleaning every bit & piece with gas or carb cleaner (CC works GREAT on the intake inside!), just be careful with it all. I even cleaned the INSIDE of the heads with gas, but i made sure not to get the gas anywhere near the valves as there is rubber in there! a shop towel and a steady hand help. and the final result... (minus a few bits n pieces lol) and YES, they ARE the same engine tyvm.... time, hard work, and a bf who "hones good" made it happen

meh, i managed to go from this (see below) to this (see below).. I bought that motor from N.O.W... it had been sitting a WHILE (to say the least).... just takes time, and a good steady hand so you don't damage the surfaces. *time out, won't DL my pics* ~~> Upload failed. Please ask the administrator to check the settings and permissions

yes, i did. i had the flywheel resurfaced while th engine was out

i never dropped mini's trans..... kept the front diff supported and trans stayed put.. no problems. no seals/gaskets.. ooh.. ida done them first.... if yer gunna delve into your clutch, do the TO bearing and RMS too... here's a couple links to my write ups/threads about my engine pulls... drama drama drama... lol http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681&hl= http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4410&hl=

yeah, see, you're running a much narrower tire than i am.. my rims are 15x10, tires 33x12.5x15. so yes, them buggers stick out some. nothing the sawzall can't handle, but other more important stuff to handle first.

what size are your 33's gianocarlo? i am runnin 4" bs with 33x12.5x15's.... and i rub my bushwhackers to hell wouldn't have it turning atta slight angle bent my fenders too

hell, my 33's rub with 7" of lift

guess there was more than the battery put on backwards <~~ THIS seriously concerns me.... what the.... anyhoo, have you removed the covers and checked the timing belt, or do you want us to do that for you? have you checked ANYTHING?? have you tried to turn the motor by hand? have you pulled a valve cover? checked all your connections? fuel delivery? all the belts? including the t belt? there's only 1 way to find out if yer t belt snapped....... L@@K. seriously. dig around, THEN come back n ask us the possibilities sorry to be "harsh", but oyu basically want US to figure out your issue for you.. we can only help diagnose, AFTER you have done some digging around YOURSELF

do you have fuel pressure? have you checked the fuel filter? line pressure? possible fuel pump..... or bad injector(s)

warn are the best, but if you don't do a lot of "hard core" off roading, i have found my set of mile markers to be great. FYI. i don't give a crap what Summit racing's website says, superwinch only make hubs for 27 & 31 spline pathys MM make fore 27, 28 & 31 spline, warn the same i believe. 87-89 is 27 spline 90-95 is 28 spline 96+ is 31 spline

BTW. i bought my allen socket from autozone for about $10. i am 99% sure it was a 14mm. an "allen socket" is a socket that fits on your ratchet with an "allen head" at the other end ..... perfect (and the right tool) for the head bolts.

upper radiator bypass hose sounds like the h2o pump though

i did it. damn takin all our playgrounds... damn tree huggers

check all your connections to the trans underneath, you may have a loose/dirty connection down there

remember, each nut goes "opposite" directions...... are you sure you're turning it the right way? also, remember to get the TRE's the "right way around"..... they go a specific way for adjustment. (though both inner & outer TRE's will be identical in length) there is left & right hand threads. the idler arm can be done whenever. first or last.... takes about 15 mins to change thank yo for the kudos/props.. wrenching is fun...... though i must admit, the pathy's have definitely been my biggest mechanical challenge of all vehicles i've owned...... i think i am on my way to "mastering" most of it lol

prolly a non related issue. check inside the steering column, you could have a bad/broken wire, or a short.

your alternator is on skid row. remove the alty and take it somewhere to be tested.

sounds like maybe you ate your piston rings and/or valve seals

yes, a newbie can easily do this job for the first time. If you are only changing the TRE itself, make sure to mark your adjuster ( center piece that holds both TRE's together) so that you pretty much know where it needs to be upon install (you can compare threads on the TRE's). note...... aftermarket TRE's sometimes have slightly longer threads.. like the one's I got from Kragen, I had to cut them down about 1/2" in order to get enough toe in to align King properly. in the pic you can see what I am talking about ( though it may look it, the adjuster was NOT the problem after comparing thread lengths on the old and new TRE's.. had the same problem with old & new adjusters) you can do everything (are you changing inner & outer TRE's?) in about 3 hours taking your time.

ooooooh, me likey! that looks sweet!

yes, that would be a suitable setup.

piglet's was kind enuff to puke right out the oil pan