Slick

mine on mini me. king's will go in the same place (mini-5 spd/ king-auto)

i LOVE storm chasers, but no cable for me

imma CHICK tyvm anyhoo... lets just say i have $750 into that system.......... here's a pic of what it looks like from underneath. i had a shop do it all (except headers, i put them on first) they custom made it cuz i am VERY PICKY when it comes to my baby...... they raised the pipe, laid the muffler down flat, and shortened the tail pipe to dump out just behind the rear tire.

here's mine......... thorleys, 50 series, 2.5" pipe dumping out under the truck. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11334&hl=

:tonguefinger: i showed the pic you sent me in the poho

*snorts* i hear stories like that WAY too often. mechanics see pathy owners coming n rip em off allt he time. oh.. and only the heads are aluminum, NOT the BLOCK :tonguefinger: good luck! (and there's HELLA write ups around for extraction of the studs... in fact, i did one too lol)

yup, imma agree with Mr ... air hog. i have a K & N same as Mr P's... and that ain't it.

mine doesn't have any special "valves".. just a basic ol rad cap at 13lbs...... $11 @ kragens

there are 2 bolts you access (they're HARD to spot) from the brass lookin "plates" each side of the bell housing....... one ont he starter side and 1 or 2 on the driver side..... bell housing will not seperate until these 2 (or is it 3) bolts are removed. hard to see, but with LONG extensions, easy enough to get out if not over torqued. they FACE the bell housing. feel around, you'll get em, also, there is 1 x 10mm ON TOP of the bell housing that needs to be removed before it will seperate.. sucker got me first time lol (i am less than sober, so don't expect specifics)

rad cap for mine are 13lbs...... i have a penzoil cap which has served me well.

my test was for "hot" hoses.. but by your description of the cap, that could well be the issue........ rad caps are VERY important to these trucks, make sure you get the right pressure cap. do the hoses keep actually breaking/blowing out/busting? glad to hear no smoke. as above, clean the rad yerself, blast it with a good pressure hose, you'll soon be able to tell if it's clogged or not. keep us updated

stay stock. i got mini me's clutch 2 yrs ago for $178 from kragens, and it's been fine. had my flywheel resurfaced when i did the new clutch too.

if a mechanic did the work, did he change the t'stat and install it wrong? as above, burp the rad. mini likes to be burped worst case scenario.. does the truck puff a bit of smoke out on start up? that would suck, cuz that would be leading toward head gasket. also as above, check the rad cap also, with engine running, hold (be careful!) the rad hoses in your hand and feel for pressure on both hoses.... also...... is it losing coolant?

feeeeeel the love

that would be mini me.. and i had it specially made here locally a couple years back

i see SNOW, off road .......... check it out THOROUGHLY.

hehe, i wish. nah, most of those were taken in AZ...... i found them through goggle. i have a fascination with lighting. awesome stuff. yeah, on the pathy, check the frame out real good, under the back passenger seat and the drivers floor. this is a bad time of year for people selling vehicles because of x-mas.. if you wait another month or 2, i bet you could get a real good bargain... hehehe (i'm so bad..) when people are desperate for $$ ..... they'll sell CHEAP. also, if you can find one in excellent condition that can't pass smog for certain reasons, those are bargains to be had.. i paid $1k for king who came with 7" of lift.. couldn't pass smog...... funny, with a shot exhaust, after sitting 6 YEARS.. he passed first time with me after some tuning (no new parts but oil)

yeah, i'm in central cali, also known as "land of the smog nazi".... you can actually go up 2 cam sizes before you will start failing smog tests... i just keep em stock, while i'll be building a slighty modded engine that won't pass smog.. but hey, i can swap motors every other year if it means 40 more ponies and more giddy up unless the pathy was seaside or int he snow or out of state.... you should be ok on the frame rust issue, but definitely check anyway.. if was neglected at any time (not washed), then it can still rust. i can find goooooooooood pathy bargains..... you have to haggle with folks, and even if oyu are CLUELESS as to what yer lookign for, always start suggesting stuff like "ooh, i hear the broken manifold studs, that'll cost me $1k to fix"... in other words, pick the truck apart. guarantee you will get a MUCH lower buying price figure out if the seller knows (i mean REALLY) their pathy. if they say it was mechanic maintained, yer gunna get em down on price. if they are clueless, you can come up with all kinds of issues with it....... if yer payin $3k for a pathy, it had better be immaculate, low miles, meticulously maintained. or newer than 95. bargains are out there..... or make your own hehehe also, CA law. the seller MUST have a current (new) smog cert on the vehicle..... or it must be a parts only truck...

in answer to the previous page question. WD's weigh in at 4,000lbs (3,940 or something like that)... not 4500.

take yer pick lol

*snorts* what? oyu think i am done ordering shirts now? hehehe *starts thinking up other "slogans"

mine next! lookin good JJ

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HAPPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!! THANKS JOSH!!!!!! got my shirt, and because of the shipping mess up, Josh sent me 4 stickers free..... and EVERYTHING is AWESOME! here's my t shirt! (i can't believe i went for the pink, but i figure peeps will read it being so.. uh... "look at me" lol BTW. the design is bad ass (tire tread marks somewhere would look absolutely WICKED too)

damn, i've NEVER needed a puller to get my pulley's off... ah well, guess i'm lucky lol. as for the cam, if it's just 1 tooth off, then it will be ok.... some are even 2 teeth off..... if you want to pull the VC, then you can, and loosen the rocker rod (my word for it lol..), it will make turning the cam smooth as butter, and you can get it lined up by itself without affecting TDC on the other cam or crank. (you can just slip the cam sprocket back on for this) as for cleaning, god bless carb cleaner. yes, you heard me. carb cleaner. good stuff maynard. i swear by it. does wonders on intake plenums. (oh, gasoline works good too) the intake plenum gasket...... i can only get em at NAPA around here... blue silicone is good for the H2o pump... don't forget to use the gasket too (hey! you'd be suprised at what I've seen!)

i opted for frame rust, as most folks do not off road their WD-21's, they would never know the flaws of the IFS. However, for me personally, the IFS would be my first pet peeve. i can live with the underpowered engine, cuz i am getting old, and off road it means nothing to me (she has plenty of torque, that means everything to me).... and i live in CA so the worst frame rust i've seen is VERY light surface rust on king due to continuous mud baths and no cleansing for days after........ but I have read enough heart breaking stories lately to know the frame rust is the most debilitating disease these trucks have. all in all, i LOVE em! low CoG, handles like a sports car, awesome off road, gets you outta trouble.. and Mini Me (JGC lift on 31's) is LOWER, (body height) than a Jeep Liberty........ go figure