Precise1

Unless the flush did something to the thermostat (removed deposits, improving flow) the issue is most certainly with the gauge/sender unit. Apparently the gauge position in relation to the voltage sent is not linear so it is not the most accurate system and small changes from the sender unit can make big changes in the reading. Do you have access to an IR sensor or even a simple cooks thermometer? When you are done with a long drive measure the temperature as best you can so you at least have a baseline and something to go off of. I tried to look up the resistance values of that sensor, but was unable to find it just now and I have to get going on something else. I'll see if I can find it tonight if no one else has chimed in. B

From what I know of his rig, I suspect he is going to have some issues. Hopefully not, but hope in one hand and crap in the other to see which fills up first... B

Tungsten, you make brash statements, contradict yourself and then ignore repeated requests to supply proof to support your statements. We are here to share accurate information, not play games, so quit wasting everyones time. We have been through this several times; keep it up and you will be banned. Well, I'm a man of my word. I asked 3 times and was ignored so I've shut down this thread until the OP will support his statements. PM me if you can provide support for all your claims, otherwise this done. B

Brilliant!! Because Imaho is a mecca for?? Don't talk like that, you sound like Tungsten... I have a buddy who offered me a job running a machine shop in Boise (been there) and I told him thanks, but I'd rather gnaw my own leg off first... Trog, I can't answer you, but I have wondered the same thing, especially a euro cam in a VG33. I'm affeared of the SmogPoli myself... B

Don't use logic, he is impervious... I have pulled spark plugs out of R50 VG33s with 150k and 250k on them (surmised by the entire electrode being burned away) without issue, so there goes that theory... It took my buddy (a mechanic/machinist) an entire afternoon to remove 6 plugs from his VG30 with 140k on it because they were bound so tight; I was amazed he got them all out without breaking any. Maybe because no anti-seize was used? Answer the question/supply the information or I lock and hide the thread for the bullcrap it smells like. B

The threads don't limit the torque, it is when the crush washer contacts and is crushed that the torque applies. Stick VS liquid isn't a special type, it is a different consistency for ease of application. Where did Simon talk about it not increasing the heat range or changing torque values? He didn't... Again, where does one find this special, non-insulating anti-seize 'made exactly for plugs'? Who makes it? Does it come in stick or liquid form? Spray on? Since you are obviously better versed and started this thread, please follow through and provide the special solution for all our members to use. B

Like was said, the crack was clearly visible, and it fell into 2 pieces when I unbolted it. Generally speaking, the WD21 manifold issues are them warping and the studs breaking (the nuts will be gone or spin easily and you might see evidence of an exhaust leak) while the R50 manifolds seem to crack/break, probably due to the larger studs not giving and the extra weight of having the cats bolted directly to them and handing down. B

Typical... Why do you back up now and say you can use 'special kinds of anti-seize' when the title says 'NEVER'? And what is this special kind? Links to products please... There is the problem, operator error! What the hell good would coating the washer do? The threads have vastly more surface area contact than the washer, and the washer can spin freely so it won't bind the plug at all. How about you coat the threads (which are what binds) and leave the crush washer alone, allowing that to do the conducting. Best of both worlds and zero issues. This is turning into one of those threads again. B

Has anyone plugged in an OBD2 scanner to check for codes, regardless? B

Honestly, it wasn't hard per-se, more are you f-ing kidding me, how the hell am I supposed to get to that annoying... If I got a quote for $300 total, regardless, I'd probably take it... B

I replaced one and it was a PITA. The studs weren't the issue, but I had to remove a lot of items in the engine bay to get access, I had to buy an offset O2 socket, drop the cat and the next section of pipe to get to the bolts from underneath, heat shields were impossible to get to, etc. The replacement manifold was only about $90, but I spent many hours and curse words over several days dealing with it. This is definitely something I would pay a reliable shop to do, especially if it was for $60-80! I have no idea what a shop would charge, but call and get some quotes, then rate the cost against your time and patience to decide. B

I say go for it, especially is you are somewhat handy mechanically, and this is why. Good price Good vehicle Good replacement for the Jeep Changing the clutch is easier than in a WD21 and should only cost a few hundred for the friction dish, pressure plate and throw out bearing. The throw out bearing barking might not be a big deal, but I have seen them shred the pressure plate fingers after a while and thats not good. You will want to change the TOB regardless because it is annpoying as hell to listen to it bark every time you push in the clutch and you'll quickly get tired of people staring... The codes are probably a simple fix as Alkorahil pointed out. Odds are the brakes just need a bleed/adjust, but even if you put in a new MC and pads, that is pretty cheap. The timing belt is due if it hasn't been done, and that is the most work/cost of all, but if you do it yourself, you can replace everything up front for about $500. So, to bring it all together, it needs about $1k of work if you do it, but you will wind up with a great reliable replacement for the ageing Jeep that shouldn't need any attention for a long time. B Oh, as for commuting, no, it isn't ideal, but if you install manual hubs up front, you should be able to hit 20mpg hwy...

x2. As long as there isn't something horribly wrong with it, that is a pretty good price. You plan on going through everything anyway, so just make sure there is some sort of return policy if it is cracked or otherwise mangled. You can probably sell some of the VG30 stuff and almost pay for it that way. Hopefully it is good, and I'm glad we were able to steer you to the VG33 as I am sure you will be happier with the gains. I would like to do the same, but my 95 WD21 only has 106k on the motor so I haven't been able to talk myself into replacing it. Here's hoping for 200+ hp without too much effort/$. B

The State of Queensland, Australia... B

Got it. Sorry, my mistake about theVG30e. Can you borrow a hoist and buy a cheap engine stand? It would be a great way to store it and move it around/out of the way if necessary. Not trying to convince you, just that the PTO seems to be something you'll sell and the VG33 is something you could une? B

Maybe it has been changed? Go to the Services section in the Classifieds and look for the thread by Alkorahil. He runs an online parts department (best prices and service you can find) at a dealership in Texas. Call or PM him with the VIN and he can tell you what it was from the factory, but the test doesn't lie. If you beef up the motor, might as well put in a LSD. I even went out and tested mine in the garage just now to be 3x sure. LSD spins the same way... B

Ok, in the spirit of pushing the rules as far as possible without outright breaking them, I recommend picking up a VG33E. The VG30E (what you have, I assume) makes no more than 155 and the VG33E which makes no more than 170hp, only 10% more. Throw in the cams from the VG30e and you shouldn't be more than 15% of the stock VG30e HP. The fact that you use 95% of the VG30e components on the VG33E makes it an easy swap and they might not even notice that it is a different engine, but you are still with in the limits. You will enjoy the power difference and I dare say, maybe get better mileage on the highway at reasonable speeds. Either that or check to see what motor sells for the most (and the fastest) and get that one to sell and buy goodies or just bank it for when it is needed. B

Me thinks you need to talk to someone outside your area and have it freighted, it would probably be cheaper. Any orange sticker on the pumpkin? Jack up the rear and spin one tire, if the other spins the opposite direction, you have LSD. Or is it the same way? DAmn, I can never remember... B Had to look it up. Spins the same way=LSD, Spins opposite=open diff.

Looks good! ^T-man has a good point. A popular swap for us WD21 guys is the VG33 that puts out 170ish stock, install WD21 cams (you can use the ones you have), then headers, intake and larger MAF. Might even hit 200hp that way. If not, you can put in pistons from a Q45 (?) motor to make a VG34... If you aren't too far along or have too much invested, you really might want to look into that! Still 175hp would make a 2wd hardbody scoot along pretty darn good. Do you have LSD in the rear? If not, another upgrade you might want to consider... Yep, same rims as my 1999.0 R50. B

I want to say it is the line on the drivers (left hand) side of the tranny, but let me look it up in the FSM tonight to verify. One way to tell is pull one line, put it in a bucket and have someone fire it up for 2 seconds. You'll know if you have the out line... Also, you can buy a can of back flushing solvent at the dealership to clean out the radiator cooler; it is a semi-standard procedure and what I plan to do when I re-route my cooler system. B

I believe the best set up is to go from the tranny into a filter into the radiator cooler, into the aftermarket cooler and back to the tranny. This is the best of all worlds because it keeps the fluid clean, warms it up in cold weather and cools it down (twice) in hot weather. This is the same way the stock 'extra' cooler is set up on the R50s. The only option I didn't mention is to install a temp gauge, but I highly recommend it. Trannys are expensive and a pain to change, gauges are $50... B

They hum a bit, but not terrible. Oddly enough, the road noise got louder when I did a 5 tire rotation, even though they state that they are reversible. If you don't mud much, the AT K/Os are a fine tire that will do almost as well in other situations, be quieter and probably get better mileage. I had them on a previous pathy... A tire that is on our R50 is the Yokohama AT-s and they are superb on the road. Other people seem to like them just as much off road... B

I didn't know that the KM's were still available. Good tires if you need them. As for the KM2's, that do you mean bigger? Here are 31" mounted. Yes, I do have a lift, but they will fit on a stock WD21 as well. B

I didn't have it set right for full depth of view focus, but should be sufficient, and like I said, I can take any other shots or measurements. If you could get the Thorley headers without the pipes, and have those custom fitted. Yes, no issue for a good shop. EE is MR510 here IIRC but he doesn't come around much anymore. I bought my headers 4(?) years ago for $409 shipped with the nickel coated and being a direct fit, it was worth it to me. The rest is a 2" magnaflow cat and 2.25" back through a Flowmaster Delta 60. Probably not ideal from a tuner standpoint, but I'm not that sophicticated and it is far superior to the stock set up. Yep, with cams (and intake/MAF?) mods, it would be good to get it properly set up! Since EE makes his own, perhaps you can just get the headers and no piping from him, and go to a custom shop from there? His design is beefy and has nice ball socket seals... You didn't mention the Pace Setter headers as an option. They are cheaper and might be more reasonable to buy and modify. While I'm not an exhaust expert, I doubt you can get the stock series manifold design to perform as well as even a simple header system. I'm sure you can get this worked out and definitely keep us informed! So is this a street sleeper, lowered show vehicle or what? B

Thanks for posting decent pictures, you wouldn't believe the pointless crap people post with the disclaimer of 'sorry for the crappy picture', rather than go take a decent one... Ok, that is completely different! For starters, my T-bars are 24" center to center, front and rear. I forgot to measure the length but that shouldn't matter... It looks to me like the cross over and the Y pipe would need modification because the T bars aren't more than an inch to the outside of the pipes. Ok, so your call from here on what you would like better pictures of, or what measurements. B