Precise1

Voltage Stabilizer? Do you have a Vortex Fuel Saver as well? B

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? B

If it is dripping on the exhaust manifolds, it is probably the valve cover gaskets. Simply going in and tightening the philip head screws is a good idea. The other main culprits are the front and rear main seals, but they aren't anywhere near the exhaust manifolds. Time to use some degreaser and maybe some judicious use of a pressure washer. Just clean the areas you suspect and it will become evident eventually. How many miles on Bertha? BTW, welcome to NPORA. B

Absolutely, droop and stuff are roughly reciprocal which is why I recommended shocks with a longer extended length, and nothing overdone. Even an extra inch with the same compressed length is good improvement, but I did not point that out. B

Yes. No. Yes. No. Sorry, but you haven't looked around much, have you? I am in the process of removing and modeling a winch type bumper, mounting portions to grill at least. You can wait for that or poke around a bit with the search function to find what pre-exists. B

I'll start on it tomorrow. No worries, but thanks for the thought. It won't be a big deal though with the hoist. Putting it on by myself with out a hoist is when I needed the help! I opened the hood. B

LOL Jacking it up so the front tires are in the air, properly supporting it and then pushing, prying, and prodding will often isolate the issue as well. If it moves under your strength, it'll definitely move under driving forces. B

Are you guys mixing up SAS and SFD? To get articulation from the rear, disconnect the sway bar and put in shocks with a longer extended length, 2-3" should be enough unless you are doing a lift as well and that needs to be added in. You may want to install spring keepers as well, people have flexed enough to drop them out. B

Well, it could be a lot of things as well, including wheel bearings, strut tower mount (there is a recall) steering rack bushing, etc. Don't just start replacing things, crawl under it and look for some that is worn, torn, loose or damaged first. Sorry for the downer, but welcome to NPORA! B

Damn right! Funny though, dry as a bone until now that I'm focusing on the WD21 and its raining every other day... Pulled the lights off the bumper and started setting up the straps for the hoist. B

That is for the 2wd truck, the one I referenced is for the 2wd Pathfinder, apparently there is a difference. I almost did the same thing as well... B

I'm going to move this to the Garage section for better exposure... Ok, I have not disassembled a 2x4 front bearing assembly, but the FSM shows the same set up as the 4x4. You have a lock nut and lock washer and on the face of the lock washer is a small philips head machine screw. Remove that, slip the lock washer off and unscrew the lock nut. This is shown on pare FA-17 of the FSM. To download a copy of the Fatcory Service Manual, look in the Garage section for the pinned thread. 1994 is the earliest year, but it will apply to the important 90% of your truck. Welcome to NPORA BTW... B

Parked it in the garage to do some work on it. B

The CV shafts don't have anything to do with the steering or stability (unless severely binding or something) . More likely wheel bearings, tie rod ends and apparently the bushings for the steering rack can give out as well. Manual hubs will stop the front CVs from spinning all the time so they don't wear as fast and should increase MPG a little. Mile Marker #435 for 1990-1996 with fit as well and be a bit cheaper than Warn. I have a set on our 1999.0 and they work fine. B

Nice find!! They are a retrofit, usually aftermarket like Warn or Milemarker. They replace the permanent drive flanges so the front CVs aren't always spinning. It reduces wear and increases MPG slightly. B

Another satisfied customer... B

Personally, I changed everything: crank/cam seals, thermostat, bypass hose, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, fan clutch and radiator hoses. It wasn't that expensive and I don't plan to touch anything there until the next timing belt change in 95k miles... B

Good that you found it so easy, those are the best. Now why it was hanging there? Sorry, as a machinist I need the numbers to read right. Personal problem... B

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Get the belts with the pulley orientation marks on the sides, they are quality and convenient. That would be dealership, Gates and a few others IIRC. You can always order them from our local dealership parts pimp, Alkorahil. Great guy and prices (he can set you up with some of the other parts to change as well). Check out the Classifieds/Services section. Yeah, I'm pimping the pimp... B

X3 on the plug wires, first thing to check. Second is to check any sensor connectors you might have disturbed, wiggle the MAF, TPS, coolant sensor connectors and anything else in plain view. Could you have disturbed a vacuum line or had one split or crumble from being moved? I like to check with WD-40... Don't get frustrated, this one is probably pretty straight forward. My truck has a poor connection at the TPS, a buddy had his die due to the coolant sensor, k9sar had issues with his MAF, etc... Sorry, but I'm pretty sure you are talking about inch measurements and mean .031-.035" and .070" B

Some people have reported probklems with MAF cleaners. Most members here just uses a pure grade alcohol and a Q-tip without issue. B

Thought I replied to this, or was it someone else? Check the wiring to the coolant temp sensor and the resistance of it. My buddies truck cut out like a switch when it warmed up and refused to start until we cleaned the connector. Ran flawlessly after that... B

I rolled the windows down, and then back up 8 hours later yesterday. I might do the same today... B

I'll look when it is light out tomorrow... That seems unnecessary, IIRC there is only a clip or two routing the wire that needs to be removed. Then tie a string to the disconnected end of the O2 sensor wire, drag it out the other side by the pipe, tie the string to the end of the new one and pull it back through. Oversimplified maybe, but it works with some hunting for hang ups... B