Precise1

I'm willing it bet... no. I can't recall if you have the manual or auto tranny, or what gearing (HG43 or HG46 on the passener fender plaque), but my 1995 with auto tranny, 4.63 gears and 31" tires runs about 2600 RPM @ 68 mph (indicated) IIRC. Normal idle is 750-800 rpm, I believe your tach is not displaying the correct RPM. See if you can have it hooked up just to test it. I've never heard of a remotely stock WD21 anywhere near 2000rpm at 65 mph, much less lower. I don't think it would even generate enough power to push the brick shape that fast at that rpm... B

Your over reaction probably did more dmage than the trail did. Wash/wax the truck. Drive it. Buff it when nature's pin striping becomes excessive. Wax it. Drive it, and repeat. Branches chipped your windshield? B

To count? So I was curious about this so I went and took a look. As Nunya said, it is 3 holes in the outer sheet metal for some screws and run the wires, nice and simple. Probably the biggest thing is the color match... My screws were a little loose, so I tightened them up... With the R50, the light is mounted to the glass and is on the inside. This is what it looks like without the cover... It seems to me that the plastic bracket that holds the assembly could easily be glued or taped to to the glass its self. Mask it off with some limo tint to reduce any glare and you would be good to go with an interior mounted light. B

If the brake pedal pulses, then it is an uneven rotor, nothing else will really do that. This can also shake the front of the car depending on the severity, but also having loose components (bushings, bearings, ball joints, etc) can compound the issue as well. Since you have the day off, I highly recommend jacking it up, removing the wheel and doing a visual/mechanical inspection for anything worn, damaged or loose. B

First, check the ECU for stored fault codes (write up in the Garage/How To section). Second, this sounds just like when I disturbed the wiring to the temperature sensor on a buddies truck. Ran perfectly until it warmed up (open loop mode) then died instantly and refused to start (closed loop). Check the connector, check the output of the sensor (info is in the FSM, EC section) and try wiggling the wires/connector. B

I like the idea of adapting the one inside from an R50. I'll take a look today to see if it looks like it'll work well. The other option is to buy a good Pathfinder, one that came with a 3rd brake light, rounded dash, rounded cam pulleys, etc... B

Correct for our 1999.0 as well. Sorry, forgot to answer that... B

That seems to be the one. I hate it when sites obscure the manufacturers part numbers though... I got mine through 4wheelparts.com for $90 on sale. Check out what they have for LED light bars as well. I have old school Hella fogs and HID lights, but if/when I have to replace them, LED light bars all the way. When I have some extra cash, every vehicle is getting at least one. http://www.4wheelparts.com/search.aspx?kw=led+light+bar B

Mile Marker hubs are available for 1/2 the $ and are perfectly acceptable as well. PN 435 IIRC, but verify that. Yes Yes If you can, get an aftermarket bumper with built in hitch receiver and tire carrier. Best of all worlds! Only replace the gront wheel bearings if yours are damaged (you should be able to feel it) otherwise just disassemble, clean, repack and re-tention them. Yes Look into the LED light bars available. Low draw so you don't have to upgrade your alternator and you can even put them across the grill or on the front of the hood. I personally avoid roof rack fad unless you absolutely need the room. 1/2 of the ones I see are always empty and they create a lot of drag, affecting mileage The only benefit is a place to mount lights, but see above. B

^Interesting article! 'Warped' disks are really easy to check. All you need is an indicator and a stand, preferably magnetic. You put the indicator on the face of the rotor, zero it, spin the rotor and get your readings. Clocking it and checking the back side can tell you a lot as well. If you want to get tricky, you mic several different spots around the diameter as well. Do you feel the vibration in the brake pedal (does it pulse) or does the whole car shake? One thing people often forget to consider is the CV axles, they can bind a bit as they age, sometimes under load, sometimes without. I believe you still have the drive flanged on your Pathy; if you plan to keep it, one of the best upgrades you can do is to put on manual locking hubs. You lose the shift on the fly ability (unless you locked the hubs first) but you should notice a slight gain in response/power and gas mileage because the front CVs won't be spinning all the time. This also means the CVs won't wear... B

Can you just have a shipping company pick up the car, put it on a trailer and bring it to you? That way it shouldn't need insurance, etc? Also, out here in California there is a vehicle certification of non-operation, basically meaning that you won't be driving the vehicle at all until you register it. There has to be a way to get it off the boat without registering and insuring it in Texas, and you should be able to just supply the proper paperwork without being there in person. Keep at it and don't give up, there has to be a way. B

Resistance is Ohms, and the voltage is VDC, Volts Direct Current. 12 volts... B

Ok, so it says to check the continuity of the closed throttle postion sensor with that and the TSP disconnected and after revving the engine. Then warm up the motor with them disconnected, and shut off the motor. Reconnect both harness connectors, turn ignition switch to on, turn ignition switch to off and wait for at least 5 seconds, and repeat this 20 times. Is that what you are doing? TSP values: Warmed up, engine off with ignition on with throttle valve fully closed .3-.7 volts, with throttle valve fully open aprox 4 volts. Is this what you are getting? What part exactly are you hung up on? I understand if you want to take it to a mechanic, at least having identified the item so they aren't troubleshooting, just setting/repairing. theexbrit, cman and karmann all live down in that mess and might have some leads for a mechanic... B

The manual can be a little confusing and daunting, but most needed info is in there, somewhere... Let us know how it works out and what you learned. B

So 142k miles. Our 1999.0 has 176k miles (284k km) with the factory cats and runs fine. The two things I would look at first are the timing and the Throttle Position Sensor. Any OBD2 codes showing? This makes exhaust seem not to be the problem. The higher the RPM, the more exhaust flow, the more it would choke so watch that, not the speed. Again, it seems that it is engine timing or control related to me. B

Did you ever check the ECU for stored codes? Duplicate threads just confuse the issue, please don't multi-post. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37873-1995-pathfinder-wont-start-help/ B

That really is overkill for these motors. Kingman said it right... Looks don't mean anything, the resistanced you get is what matters. Soak them as stated, break them loose, then unscrew. If there is significant resistance, only unscrew about 1 turn at a time, spraying penetrant each time and let it sit for a bit, meaning move on to the next plug and so on. You have to give the metal time to cool, as the resistance you feel generates tremendous friction/heat. When things get too hot, that is when they gall and you strip threads. Sometimes it helps to screw them back in 1/2 a turn, then back out 1.5 turns as well. I say give it a try on the easy side and see how it goes. Then, if still in doubt, pay someone else to strip them out... B

Do you want diameter, pitch and or length? The lengths are different, with the rearmost being quite long but I'm sure they are all the same diameter and pitch.. I'm pretty sure this is discussed in a thread, probably the one in the How To section. It's been a while so I don't have the info off hand. What you can do is just pull one bolt at a time, measure and replace it, working down one side. That won't hurt anything... B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37879-header-bolts-wd21/ You already asked this question. Please do not keep starting new threads, it just confuses things. Have you searched for your answers at all? Like I said before, this is a common problem that has been well documented here... B

Hold off on replacing the cats until you have taken a look at them (How many miles on your Pathy?) Yes, enough exhaust leaks (and where) can definitely rob you of power, but so can a few other things. Increased diameter fron the cats back or at least where the two streams merge on back would be a good idea, but it seems to me that the R50 design has at least 150% flow area than the WD21 with only 10% more displacement. The cats shouldn't be a choke point unless they actually are clogged. I'm not sure what is available for cat back systems but Borla is a good brand... B

The TPS needs to be adjusted (it puts out voltage depending on how open it is) Go to the Garage section and download a copy of the Factory Service Manual from the pinned thread. EC-143 shows all the diagnostic steps and EC-85 shows how to adjust it. I doubt anything is broken, just not set correctly... B

NGK x3, but the Platinum seem to work well. I'm not sure yet if they last longer like they claim. B

We have asked for minor monetary assistance before, and there have been a few unsolicited, generous donations as well so we are doing fine. The Administration has done an excellent job in sourcing cheap and reliable web hosting which helps as well. Here has even been a time when specific members and/or staff have paid the bills, but I don't see that returning. Thank you much for the consideration though. Well, sounds like they need to step up! I don't Facebook. B

That is not by accident! Since this is a free, public forum we have decided to not allow any advertisement other than Vendor accounts, and threads in the classifieds/ Services and Vendor sections. These account designations were created to recognize and support the people who contribute to and support our community in return. You should never see any ads, banners or pop-ups here on NPORA. Makes me wonder who started it in the first place, and if it was sanctioned. Perhaps it was a Pezzy thing back in the day as she is the resident Staff Facebookaholic. B

Sorry, yes, that not correct, I will go back and change the original. It should read... My bad, I didn't read it all the way through, but was it that big a leap from switching a toggle to turning a screw? We are trying to help... B