Precise1

Once you fix the water leak issue, I would run a can of engine case cleaner, flush it with cheap oil, replace the filter and put in what ever good oil you favor. Not what I used before, but can't find it now, you get the idea. Just don't drive around with it like someone did... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Gunk-Motor-flush/_/N-260b?itemIdentifier=523555_0_0_ Do a full tune up to set a maintenance point, including all drive train fluids. You plan to keep it a while... As for the no start... spark, fuel, air, timing and compression; just go down the list. B

So what headers do you run? You have some sort of dyno info to support all this? Perfect scavenging for a N/A 3 liter V6 pushing 150hp? Extra components are required here, some by law everywhere. What exactly is your set up? B

Not sure when the last mod was done, but before that (4 years), all you had to do was start the threads before bolting the header down. Not like the EGR tube is some impossibly stiff thing to deal with. B

Ok, fair enough. Yeah, the Stealership (in this case) lied to you in the worst way if they said they did a valve adjustment, and hopefully there wan't a charge for it! Not you. Syntax, grammar and spelling. Gimme some credit... See your PMs. Ok, so, the stock manifold looks a lot different, and I believe the Thorley headers raise a little higher, but you have to go by the bolt holes to get things lined up, hence the "do you have them in front of you" question. When you install the Thorleys, you want to get everything ready first, get them mostly lined up, thread in the EGR most of the way, install the headers and go from there. Yes, you are right about all the info! Can you imagine all the time it has taken to orgainze what does exist this way? Pin threads, combine them, create directorys, move, merge, sort, direct threads, link, and discourage duplicates? That doesn't even include personal participation... Honestly, I think the volunteer staff does a hell of a job, perfect/finished or not. Sorry, a lot of things need to be sorted through too. You are welcome to make a compilation of them though... ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ So, back to the Thorley headers, they bolt right in, use stock EGR fittings and I thing can be bolted to stock exhaust, although that would be silly. B

Thank you for your input Nissanland, I'm glad I could help. First off, I'm sorry you took that so wrong and ran with it. I wasn't trying to call you out (you would know when that happens) I was asking about your questions and approach.... Second, when you talk about timing belt and valve adustment (which is impossible) you make yourself hard to believe. Third, almost everything you have asked is well docuented and archived. Most of us don't mind clearing up some confusion you might have, but don't want to type it for the 23rd time. Is this unreasonable? No problem with the NooB part, everyone was at some point. The thing is to teach how to fish, not to feed them fish. Do you want to learn, or be fed? If you don't have the manifolds in front of you, how did you deduce that the EGR port is in different places and wouldn't line up? The thread you created is Headers-exhaust for more power. How is that a specific tech thread compared to the others? Third, haven't I posted many times (6-8?) in this thread alone (not to mention others of yours) with info, links, part numbers, etc? How is that reluctant? Do you have any idea how many threads/posts I read through daily? Can you understand brevity or maximun efficiency? Lastly, I like the line edited in. Shall I guess who wrote it? It wasn't you... B

You should have a full sized spare underneath. Our 1999.0 has a 265/70/15 mounted there, witha trailer hitch, and that should be roughly a 30' tire. Some tires are uni-directional, and even some of them that are not do not like being reversed. I noticed my BFG M/T KM2 got a lot louder when I reversed them. I plan to go back to the off side rotation. (DF to DR/ DR to DF, PF to PR to spare to PF) B

Honestly man, are you just trolling? Yes, the stock EGR pipe is used, the Thorleys are direct fit. Do you have a stock manifold and Thorley header in front of you to compare? B

Ok, good to know the window trim is the same. Do you mean the autolocking hubs, or manually selected hubs? Here in the US, all Pathfinders (WD21) 1990-1995 had the 28 spline drive. If you just want a used set of the auto locking hubs, that should be easy to find as many people switch them out with manual locking hubs. Have you tried just removing/cleaning and lightly lubing the ones you have, or is there something damaged or you want spares? As long as there are no damaged parts, cleaning often works. B

Yep, when is the last time it got tune up parts, specifically the plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Other thing would be to check the timing, 15* BTDC. Slightly more advanced but not hard at all is to check the ECU for stored fault codes (write up in the Garage/How To section) and maybe check the output of the TPS (Throttle position sensor). The FSM (Factory Service Manual) can be downloaded from the thread pinned at the top of the Garage section... G

It gives you more clearance than having a tire underneath (not to mention oversized tires don't fit well) and it is handy to mount other things to (antennae, shovel, jerry can, etc). I'd say that is some function. B

The VG33 was used in the first generation Xterras, so 1999-2004. Apparently the 2005+ have a VQ40... B

In all honesty, since it overheated and you didn't get compression readings, I'd re-ring it before assembly, but I have no idea what new rings cost... So, all the service data is on pages EM-46/47 (1999.0 FSM). It basically says 91.5-91.53mm is 'standard' diameter with a .2mm wear limit and .015mm max deviation in taper and out of round. I'd need to scare up some 3-4" mics to measure that, but I have plenty of machinist friends. Much to my embarassment, I have never gotten my own 0-6" set... B

^correct. Just so people don't get confused in the future. Sounds like they are all good to me, other than #5 of course. I do find it odd that you have had 3 fail in what is basically 1 tank full. Bad gas or maybe someone dumped something in your tank? B

Rocky Road is based out of state, Colorado IIRC, and have mixed reviews; mainly with customer service, not product. I dealt with them years ago when I bought my Thorley headers and had a good experience, not to mention the lowest price at the time. Since then I've dealt with Steeeeeev0 at Rugged Rocks a few times and fully endorse him as well. Good prices, knowledgeable, helpful and friendly guy, local (in state), likes jazz, moonlit walks on the beach, cuddling by the fire... It comes down to if the vendor has what you want, and what the prices are, no shame in that. All else being roughly equal, I'll always recommend using a member and enthusiasts services before another. Seriously, have you seen his Pathy? B

Yes, you might have been able to just replace the housing, clean the sensor, install it and have it work fine. Absolutely, this is a proven issue! Not to argue, but if you are going to buy/install a replacement, why not try cleaning it first? What is there to lose? This is obviously on one's personal vehicle, not in a shop scenario; customers don't want to hear 'maybe it will work' and have to come back... B

Since it came with one stock, it will fit and work. There are no changes to the body or carrier that I have ever heard of. Make sure it comes with the latch plate and hardware as well. It cracks me up when people say they are too hard to operate. Unless you are handicapped or disabled, how f-ing lazy can you be? I can see removing it for asthetic reasons, but not because 'whaa, too hard'! B

Wait until the tensioner/guide wears out, it is even more work to get to... B

Nice! Thanks for updating with the fix too. B

Just getting old? How many miles on it? Crappy gas? Fuel filter letting crap through? How do they fail? What is the resistance readings when they do? In 3 Pathys over 70k miles, I've only had one injector fail. B

Kind of what is said above. For example, top center of your last picture (and in the glass), there are 3 screws holding the latch on. They can be loosened, and the latch moved to some degree, maybe not enough. Same goes for the other latch plates as well. That doesn't mean it will be enough adjustment though, that's why the foam is a good idea as well. B

Easy there 'dry Brit humor', that is Meisinger to you... I'm used to many decimal places so adding one significant digit is like you tossing a tarp over radio gear on a dry desert night... They should know better than I, obviously, but the math/physics don't lie either. You can search here to see plenty of threads of people who think a 2.5"+ pipe with no cat on a 3.0L motor is the key to power as well. Mileage may vary. B

Yes, it is delicate, but they do need cleaning sometimes. Some people have reported issues with MAF sensor cleaner as well; I've personally cleaned at least 1/2 dozen sensors on WD21s and R50s with a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol without issue. Just be gentle... B

Good to hear Nissan and the dealership are standing behind their product and not making excuses about modified parts. I highly recommend you show up with a pallet of doughnuts, a sandwich platter, poutine, moose antlers, seal blubber or what ever you Eskimos like to eat... B

Pathfinders from 2001 to 2004 had the VQ35 motor, and I'm pretty sure they bolt up differently, meaning a different tranny or at least bell housing. I don't believe those will work, but someone else verify this. AFAIK you need a tranny off of a VG30 or VG33, found in Pathfinders, Frontiers and Xterras. B

Agreed, but I would question the quality of the parts if it all costs under $100. Agreed, I went with dealer parts for everything and it was about $250-300 IIRC, but then you shouldn't have to touch anything for another 100k miles (1994+ anyway). Remember Rob Lacy (Alkorahil here) at factorynissanparts.com, great prices so order ahead. B