Precise1

LOL, I kept forgetting to suggest that... Right on, I'll move previous threads there when I see them. B

1) You'll be fine, but remember, you may be paying for 2 alignments... 2)Theoretically, yes but the word would be "greater". In reality, if this was a guarenteed issue, no one make, buy, or sell suspension lift kits or components. Who told you that ? B

How many miles on the truck ? Old motors will have more compression blow by... Ok, how old/smelly was the old oil ? Remember, you don't remove all the oil when you drain it; some stays, so the new oil is automatically contaminated to some degree and I think we will all agree that gas is a very pervasive and recognizable smell. How many miles in those couple of days ? This is not necessarily something to worry about, but check it every few hundred miles to see how fast/bad it gets. If it is a motor issue then #1 rings #2 valve seats/guides. B

While good job to them, personally, I think they looked at your pictures, at each other and said "Oh isht !! I didn't send him that, did you send him that ?" and so on and so on and so on... Then just sent you the right part ASAP !!! Did you mention NPORA was watching and about to reverse engineer ? LOL, just glad you got results, and will get the right part soon; I'm pretty sure its wrong. Maybe this is worth an idler arm brace at cost or something... B

I know there is a locker available, but maybe it is just the ARB air locker that is expensive. I'll be back wih info... B

Err, hate to be the bubble burster, but most of the top of the motor has to be removed, incl intake manifold, exhaust manifold and heads, then the heads/valves inspected (repaired), rings installed and everything reassembled. does this sound like a 3-4 hour job ? Sorry, no... I just had a 4cly Honda redone. Head gasket, rings, cylinder honed, head milled, new valves, seats and guides (+full tune up)for $1800... Thats an easy 1 bank 4 banger, not a V6... B

Hmm, sounds typical... A Nissan thats falling apart, but runs great !! How much did you pay ? anywho... 1) Any decent autobody shop will have a wierd jimmy thing they use to slightly bend the hinges upward. Not the right way to do it, but a lot easier than replacing the hinge pins. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...oor+hinge" 2) Cheap route will be $300+ 3) Thats easy to trouble shoot, just get underneath. 4) Yes, several threads here about that and approaches, most use welding. 6) Ebay or online sources if no junkyards ar close 7) Stock bumpers are useless: remove and use as rain gutters 8) Ahh, rust is spreading up from underneath the flares ? Time to pull them, brush off the scale and paint and treat it. Look in the 'Product Review" section for the rust treatment thread. 9) No idea if the timing belt has been replaced on schedule ? DO it/have it done asap !! Several members lost motors due to that last year. 10) Have a nice day !! B

Sorry Bud, I was talking having a shop fix it, not price of parts... Yes, it should make it to school, but definitely watch topping it off and no speed racer crap !! You don't know it is the rings yet and I have NO idea about the 3.5 replacement... Where do you live ? Maybe I'll make you an offer... B

If you are burning it and not dropping it (I know you have looked) you prob have 1 or more bad cylinders... the answer would be a top end job... Honed cylinders, new rings, valves and guides/seals. Figure $2500-3000 is my guess. Hopefully nothing in the bottom end has been compromised... It may be cheaper (initially and in the long run) to get a used motor to drop in... Compression check is #1 All I can say is sorry Bud !! There are some super guey additives you can get, just look around... B

Unless you drive around floored all the time, no, it shouldn't be that big of a deal, but I could see really losing it in the snow at 30mph in 4hi if you give it a lot of gas in a corner... :o B

Hmm, I don't know the other vehicles well enough to know why it wouldn't work, other than gearing as you mentioned. Interesting concept... Only issues I can think of off hand is the work and $ for the gears. But why not just install a front locker for the same effect, but better ? B

Damn, what a waste !! I hope it was merciful and you gave her a nice funeral. Exactly opposite, as others have mentioned already... It's basically the fumes that burn, so the more full the better. You know how they make the big Hollywood movie fire balls ? An open ended 55 gallon drum, a few cups of gas and ignition source... Point is, the Pathy will basically be ruined before it truely catches fire or explodes. All you can do is try to make sure that doesn't happen, then watch out for your own butt. Thats what's important ! It would be nice for you to put a few miles on her after all that work though... Be safe. B

*sees k9sar's warning bar skyrocket* B

LMFAO !! His brother and cousin work behind a counter here !! As MZ pointed out, cheaper to make and flex better, lasting longer in theory. Personally, I think they are less prone to slipping. Certainly don't be shy about putting them on. B

Thats definitely different, and I think the offset could be whats giving you the extra 'throw'. Is there a difference between the 2 doors and 4 doors ? Could they have sent you a wrong year part or just a miswelded one ?? I wouldn't be shy about asking WTF, I can't see how it is something you did, but then I didn't watch you install it or count the beers... B

AHAHAHAHA !! I did the same damn stupid thing... Sorry reils !! Ignore my first post... Yes, who was it who just tipped Moms pathy ? There was a pict of the underneath when it was laying on its side. The gas tank was basically under the rear seats, drivers side I think... yep, here it is... looks straight forward. Pick courtesy of DSM_guy... B

Yep, it appears that the Wagoneers (80-85) are the most popular... Here is a LOT of info... Well, to sort through anyway... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?act=Se...e=%22dana+44%22 B

I believe the preferred is a Dana44 out of a 70ish Ford Bronco... There was a thread that mentioned it, let me look... B

Cool, thats the way it's supposed to work out !! :cool2: B

Hey JJ, you try sending those shots to L&P yet to ask WTF ??? And the wheels are parallel straight, correct ? If you get no answers from L&P I'll CAD up a basic aproximation of the front end as an assembly and play with movements and lengths to try to figure out WTF... I can't seem to see it in my head... B

Possibly, I did consider that... But then I'm not going for 'as tall as I can', just enough for the front to flex. Without work (intake and headers) I don't think the 3.0 can effectively pull anything bigger than 31" tires. Personally, I don't care what people think it looks like... When I slither past their buried or highcentered butt, I'll be sure to smile and wave !! Raining hard enough for it to flood today, so no picts yet... B

The tool and winch would be simple to aquire/install... Just pull the fuel tank and you will have plenty of room for the tire !!! B

3.5 or 3.75 depending on the year (88-95) Odds are he just put in the 'fill amount'+ when it wasn't fully drained... Damn near have to remove/disassemble a motor to get all the oil out !! I never trust the fools and usually do it myself, regardless of specials... The number of times I have seen oil streaks comming out of those places !! B

LMFAO !!! Yeah, V6 is right... But it was a cement island for a light pole, and yeah, I was the a$$ who did it, so just shut it !! Still F-ing laughing... *sigh* If is isn't raining tomorrow, I'll take picts of the bent bolts... that whole sorry story is why the Pathy will be SAS'd and I plan on a 1 or 2" lift before so I can replace the bolts and let isht settle... That said, I'm not a fan of BL and will stay as low as I can go. I don't plan to run larger than 31" tires so I hope I don't need it. I like the CG as low as possible, and perfer the suspension to do the work. The SA should take care of the Pathy front end weakness and I'll have a low, capable rig (under-armored to hades, I'll make the plates) that will crawl, slither and skip anywhere that is remotely reasonable for it to go... When I'm done (hopefully this year !!) it's still a daily driver; if I don't take the Bug or Bike... B

Well, I'm not an engine guru but from what I know, the gains only matter with some engine set ups, and little at that... 88 has a spacer, but that is more for evening out the fuel spread to all cylinders (maybe hoping for a boost), right ? But thats due to 2 injectors for 6 cylinders and less than optimum equal feed ? With our set up (MPI) I could see a slight gain over throttle lag due to the restrictive intake with the larger air space lessening sudden intake pressure drop, but after that, it equals out. If you pull the intake to put on a spacer, I think porting would make about 300% the difference the spacer would make, although the spacer may help slightly. Then still, if you have not increased the intake capacity... Then still, if you have not worked over the restrictive stock manifolds/installed headers (and better exhaust)... Most of what i know is from motorcycles, but all motors are air pumps (with fuel mixed in) as I understand it. Some have different set ups that can be tweaked in different ways. I understand that the Pathy is set up very restrictive which allows mild gains with just air intake and exhaust mods, but thats also what allows the engine to run a long time... Like any chain, the weakest link is what holds you back. I seriously doubt that a "Thorttle body spacer" will be worth the effort without playing with a lot of other components... B