Precise1

Ouch!! Maybe if you can pull the fan clutch/fan, shroud belts and the harmonic balancer then you can get to the seal without touching anything else? Or is the lower TB cover in the way and that means the WP has to come off? I'm operating on the assumption that it is the crank seal... Have that beer and cigar. Tomorrow is a new day. Oh, thanks for the information on the artist. I have always been impressed by him and had no idea he was so prolific. B

I've never seen that and I like it!! What is the material covering it? Does it seem custom stitched?? I was wondering where to put some gauges, and now I think I have my answer!! B

No idea... Well, I went to order my tires today and got "unavailable" for a reply. Dammit!! The guy is going to call around and see if he can find a set, one from here, there and where ever or find out how long of a wait it will be. I don't need them immediately, but I refuse to run 235/75/15 tires with a 2" body lift and a 3" suspension lift, so I'm not installing the suspension lift yet. I'll find out tomorrow but I suspect it won't be what I want to hear... *sigh* B

Yes Sir, that's what I said. You just say it purtier... B

No trips for you, I'm afraid... B

Ahh, I specifically wanted steelies... B

Oh, I know. I know the timing can be adjusted and I know that the ECU further tweaks it according to what it's sensors indicate. Just quoting the manual... BTW, the picture you have in your signature by Frank Frazetta is cover art for the Death Dealer series IIRC. B

Ok, well, just a thought... He's Canadian, so that happens some times. Here is a note from Haynes. B

Yes, it is driven off of the crank pully with the same belt that runs the atlernator?? Power steering?? I can't remember right now... B

That really seems odd... Try bleeding the clutch and don't forget the valve on the passenger firewall. I'm just guessing... B

It might also be your control system 'adjusting' its self when it first starts up. Sometimes mine will stumble and stutter for a few seconds then the idle will jump up and it runs perfectly. I ignore it... B

Damn, that is a good price, but it doesn't include mounting, balancing, etc, right? Those rims look better. How hard are they to clean though (I'm lazy)? B

Bear with me but this should be worth the read. It'll take you much less time than it took me to put it together. The end of it all (for those with ADD) 5 31x10.5" BFG M/T KM2 mounted, balanced, etc on new Cragar Soft 8's for $1,230. That's a good price in NorCal! The break down is that Costco sells the BFG M/T KM2 tire for $184 each + tax and $1.75 Ca disposal fee. Here in NorCal, that equals $203 per tire out the door. This price includes mounting, balancing, weights, valve stems and whatever else... The rims are a longer story, but again, for the ADD afflicted, Summit Racing is shipping me 5 Cragar Soft 8 15x8" 6x5.5" 26lb black powder coated steel rims (purchase price included) for $212.90. Yeah... $39.95 each +11.95 handling charge for all of them(no shipping cost). IF YOU WANT RIMS, CHECK OUT SUMMIT SOON!!! What I learned is that rims by Cragar and rims by Pacer, described as 'the same' to me before, really are. No joke!! I checked out the web sites, and the manufacturer codes are hauntingly familiar with the similar prefixes and identical (4 digit) suffixes. I checked out a few at random that proved to me that they are identical, down to the part # with some extrapolation. If you doubt, check it out... http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/C...s/?autoview=SKU http://www.pacerwheels.com/shared_modules/...9&linkBig=y The same seems to apply to AR 767 wheels as I'm sure as they are listed also... A local tire and wheel fellow explained to me that there are only a few companies making tires and everyone 'resales' them. At first I was unsure, but now I begin to believe him... B

Slick doesn't like hers (for wheeling anyway), it was on the truck when she got it and another member was recently asking about modifying or removing his (same story, it was on the truck...)... B

When checking the level of ATs, I have always seen it recommended to cycle from park down through reverse, neutral, all the gears (pausing a few seconds in each one) and back to park in the same manner. It could be that by not doing this you are not filling passages and cavities that have been drained. B

One of the problems is that the bushing in the water pump wears in for a certain eccentricity. When you remove and replace the fan clutch or even fan blades (like when you replace the timing belt) and remount them, the ballance will be different (most likely). This causes new, different wear on the WP bushing, often enough to cause it to fail... B

I could have sworn it was a pint (I looked it up a few months ago) but I don't have my manual available to verify... B

That does make it harder, but like GG said... Oh my, why would you even go there?? Oh, you are from Washington, that explains it... B

Ok, but penetrant, heat and a vice should get them apart pretty quick... B

Body lift, ie. Divorcing the body from the frame, shoving blocks in between and bolting everything back up, usually accompanied by swearing and or blood sacrifice. The bottom shroud refers to the bottom 1/2 of the radiator shroud. I agree, it isn't clear but I was just pointing out that I did know of it... I see that part of the problem is that I (and many others) have been here for years and repeated so much information so many times that we now abbreviate, acronym, paraphrase and generally expect that someone understand what we are saying. Perhaps this is a good reminder to slow down a bit and there has been some effort to combine like threads but that is a daunting chore... All that said, yeah, we forgot to tell you that you can remove most of the bottom shroud and you didn't notice. In defense, mine was not easy to remove while on the truck and not put a screw driver (for prying) through the radiator, etc. I also have a 1/4 drive ratchet with a swivel handle that makes the fan bolts easy to remove, even with bear paws like mine. As before, good job and we'll work together better next time. B

Sheesh, how many times are you going to edit post #95 before responding to post #96?? It makes a mess of relativity... B

You obviously don't know me very well, so please review the date and comment #3 in the following link... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=388122 Then there is my post here telling you how I dealt with the fan shroud without removing the lower part... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=417544 Sheesh!! Sorry about that and Chiltons is best used when you are out of toilet paper. It is mentioned in many, many threads. Be honest Teach, we forgot to mention it and you missed it the whole time yourself... B Oh, great write up BTW, it may become the #1 reference and people will use it for a long time.

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing, but don't you just unscrew them?? B

That does sound helpful... Not everyone has a garage or a suitable place to work AT HOME, right? B

Too late now, do the other side. Just take what you learned and go... B