Precise1

Well, I forgot to call Walker. When I assembled the cross over pipe, I put some high temp sealant around the end of the smaller tube and slid them together. When everything else was torqued, I put more sealant around the joint and slid the clamp over it then torqued it down. It seemed to fit very well and only some of the sealant squeezed out so it should be well filled. The truck is at the muffler shop having the high flow cat and cat back system installed... B

Nope, I've never seen anything like that either. Looks perfectly positioned to slosh fluid into the stereo though... B

Well, arguably the ECU is getting the right signal for a wrong engine condition, but yes, in effect, this could cause a fuel rich scenario? Why, what is this sheit mileage you are speaking of?? Pull one of the easy to get to spark plugs and look to see what the (dis)coloration is... B

Nice work!! Interesting that you have the mounts for the rear bump stops installed but have no bump stops installed on them... B

Pictures, or it didn't happen... What is your set up like downstream of the headers, Simon?? B

You have a 15 year old 3 liter V6 with over 200k on it and it seems to be lacking a bit of pep?? Damn!! Ok, sarcasm out of the way, It could be everything from a tune up (plugs/wires, dist cap/rotor, timing) that perks it up a little to heavier oil to increase compression to a compression check and checking the exhaust for a clogged cat to diagnose larger issues. My recommendation is start with the tune up, but remember your truck has circumnavigated the globe 8+ times; if it is only showing signs of wear, pat it on the hood and thank it... B

Yep, good advice so far. Your cluster is electronic and has a bit of crazy in it. Remove the entire cluster and wave it over your head to shake out the crazy while chanting and dancing around a bonfire to release the demons. Then tighten the brass screws in the back (ground points) and maybe smear it with chicken blood. Reinstall and observe... I have seen this method work on my own gauges. B

Agreed, patience is required!! It's really not that hard (so far), just some contortionist moves and some finesse. I recommend pulling up a shop stool and getting comfortable for some of the 1/8 turn wrench reversal games. Yeah, I have a 2" Magnaflow highflow cat with a 2.25" magnaflow cat back that will be installed to complete the set up. It should be a good set up... On my 95, the upper EGR fitting was handled with a 1/16" wrench (perfect fit) and the lower into the header was 15/16 (good fit) so I at least had wrenches that fit... Some additional tips for installation... 4) While it is infrequent, the occasional 3rd hand or eyeball would be very useful. There were a few times that I was juggling bolts and pipes and such that I wanted to grow one (or the other). 5) Bring all your ratchet sizes (1/4 and 3/8), extensions, universals, ratchet wrenches and palm drives. I have a fair assortment and used most of them at some point. There simply isn't much room to work in, so finesse is the game. B

Ok, so it all came apart text book. The passenger side was nice enough to grab all the studs at the nut and threaded right out. PO had been in the drivers side so all the studs were new and only 3 did not come out with the nut. Those came out easy using counter locking nuts. I really do not see why studs are specified. Ok, what I learned was: 1)You have to remove the passenger side manifold first to get the cross over pipe flange on the DS to clear the T-bar. Removing the manifolds from the engine bay is a challenge, there is little room. 2)Loosen the top fitting for the EGR tube to allow clearance and to help align the threads. It is a juggling act between the top and bottom EGR fittings and the header bolts. Bolt #4 is extremely hard to access and start. Patience and perhaps having someone with small hands try is recommended. 3)It is impossible to get a torque wrench (socket) on all the bolts. Practice your 'torque wrench' arm... So the DS is on and the PS will be an equal challenge; there is no EGR, but there is less room and all the AT/fuel lines in the way. Regardless, I'm happy with this so far. Hopefully the cross over and collector will play nice... B

There was a recent thread on the temp sensor for the ECU which can indeed mislead the ECU significantly. Let me try to find it, Terrano1992 gave the meter readings for diagnosis. B

Cool, glad it was that easy!! Nunya the Bent saves the day!! B

Visually, I have seen much worse, but you need to go after it with a hammer to find out what is still steel. The fact that the channels are 1/2 filled with rusty looking debris is not positive, but maybe it is a layer of mud protecting everything? B

Here is a pict of the item... My first pathy didn't have them, the second did. The jury is still out. They are 2"+ over the axle level (stock) and look like they limit axle movement by 4" or so minimum. That seems excessive, perhaps cutting off one loop? I'll have to pay attention and see... B

Owning the first automatic in 20 years (the first one failed on me), I am mildly paranoid about tranny problems, especially since the tranny was supposedly rebuilt by the PO with a shift kit in it. If it fails, I'll get another or do an MT swap, no biggie, but I'd like to keep this one from failing... So, in addition to the tranny cooler the PO installed, I am installing a tranny temp gauge and an inline tranny filter. It sits on the right of the steering wheel on a 95 dash. Here is what I have until I install the piece and run some wires tomorrow. Difficulty rating 2/5. Reasons to do it, I'll tell you in a few weeks. Reason not to, $50+ and a couple hours of your life. Ok, I went with this temp gauge because is is the smaller size (2 1/16 diameter), it is the correct temperature range, it is the same look as the stock gauges, it was added to an order because shipping was covered and it was only about $45. Here is any install info... For the temp gauge, all you need is what is circled in red. A T block with barb fittings on either end (and hose clamps) and the sender (blue X) threaded on using the provided adapters. Simply cut the first soft hose on the output line and install the fittings in either end and tighten the clamps. To install the gauge you will need a 2" hole saw and a drill. That's it. Borrow one. I'm aboot 1/8" off to one side and could have gone 1/8" higher, but I eyeballed it and quite frankly, I don't care. Punch the hole (remove it first), deburr it and oversize it using a pocket knife. Put gauge in and mount it. Now all you have to do is install the bulb and run some wires to the right places. I have not done that yet, but it is simple and comes with instructions. I have no problem doing it and I suck at electronics. If you can't figure it out, take it to someone who can. Please... Ok, the filter. That is exactly the same mounting end as my Trans-adapt oil filter relocation kit. I happened to find mine, but they are for sale many places, usually for $20-25. I put the sender block directly before the input so all I have to do is mount the filter bracket somewhere (once the ARB bumper is installed) and use the right elbows to make it easy to plumb. The filter is a spin on canister by Derale (?) sold at Summit for $18. It is specifically a tranny filter, not an oil filter, but I plan it investigate options. Still if it only gets changed when the tranny fluid is also, no problem. I'll update the final picture this weekend. Inputs and Q's, of course... B

I like the custom license plate mounts... B

Synthetic at 250K?? I'd say some castrol high milage 20-50 and a pint of lucas for good luck. That's in the extreme, seriously though, the synth may be too thin and things may need a better flush of oil. I'd try something else... B

Well, I'll call Walker tomorrow and ask about the mystery goo. B

It really is the first step in the diagnosis process. Of course, the last resort is always what 87pathy said. He is the one with the upside down truck... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 B

Simon has something quite similar, but it was custom IIRC. Maybe he has some basic plans you could start with?? B

Yep, try the bolt from the other side, that is another good trick. If it threads in, then you know the offending bolt is bad. If it will not, then it is the captive nut. If this is the case and you have the tap, try to chase the threads in the nut, but be careful, with a cut tap in a buggered lead, it can be easy to cross thread. Try to use a tapered hand tap or whatever you have with plenty of lead. Also, check to see if the offending bolt is bent. Simply putting it through the shock eye could cause a misalignment at the thread lead. I'm a machinist and have cut so many threads, it is rediculous so I'm all to used to these kind of issues. Also, for cleaning up OD threads, I much prefer a thread file over a cut die, by the time a die is required, the fastener is probably trashed anyway. Just my opinions... B

Thanks for the links, I will definitely keep them in mind incase I have trouble with the fasteners behaving themselves. Thanks for the tip but on the 2 studs I practised on, I was able to remove the nuts without any real trouble just using an offset wrench and I'm pretty sure a deep dish socket will work fine as well. I was even able to remove a stud without removing the manifold so it will be much easier when it is out of the way. I have a set of crows foot wrenches just in case though. Oh, I have a 2" lift which dows help... B

Check the bolt for damage, ding or crap in the lead threads, repair or replace as necessary. Thread it in by hand with out going throuugh the shock eye just to verify the it will if proper aligned and without any sideload. I'm assuming it will. Now, put it through the shock eye, align it as well as possible and hand thread it in while slightly moving the shock eye about until it catches. B

Stock exhaust manifolds will either have a brun or rust hole or be warped. The major benefit of headers (expecially the kind that I got) is that they are shiney... I kid you. The whole point is increased performance, as I'm sure you have noticed, these trucks are a bit low on power, so if you can get another 15hp from a full exhaust system, thats a 10% gain... B

Ahh, ok, that makes more sense, I lost my scale... 1/2 NPT T fitting was $15!! 100% duty cycle?? What is the CFM of that beast, or is it CIM?? B

Well, I have a choice between the 10.9 grade bolts I have or A2-70 stainless ones.Ok, here is some stuff I have learned... So, my A2-70 stainless bolt is almost at grade 5 SAE and should fail before aluminum threads, unlike the 10.9 (grade 9 equivalent). I'd much prefer the bolt to break before it strips out the hole (unlikely at so low of a torque)and the stainless characteristics should lessen the risk of that. $1.40 each so no big deal, I bet they work great!! B