Precise1

Glad you got it fixed and that it was straight forward. Yes, the lock nut socket is handy, but I have never used one... Yes, you can mount a steering stabilizer and many companies offer them along with Nissan themselves. B

Ok, please don't run it any more. Damage may have been done but lets not add insult to injury. What needs to be done is the timing belt set correctly and then the heads addressed. I'm not sure if it should all be done at once, but that is where I am leaning. There is a How To pinned in the Garage section for the timing belt, and let me if I can find a thread about the heads... B

Nice!! Both the work and the write up witrh pictures!! Thanks to you and My1Path. I'll go ahead and pin this in the Garage/How To section now... B

Agreed. The auto tranny is fairly robust other than the overheating/clogging issue. I recall reading that they were put in the Skyline which had something like 250hp (?). I will agree that the auto is more likely to have issues, but I seriously doubt that the manual tranny would have any. B

That seems odd, but my guess is that one of your CVs are binding and the intermittent issue is due to the front end switching to the unloaded side. There is th possibility of the front cross member making noise also. There is a write up in the Garage/ How To section for that... B

Hey Chymos, make sure to look in the classifieds here for people parting out trucks and feel free to post in the Parts Wanted section. Sometimes people will offer to get things as they are going to a wrecker or something. For example, 1 month ago I could have grabbed several sets of seat belts for you and may again, depends how soon I go back (when they get new vehicles in). B

Agreed, but the one in my DD is about to hit 102k miles so I shouldn't need a spare soon... B

I used a long extension, 18 or 24", with a universal joint and another 4 or 6" extension. I had a buddy hold guide/hold the socket on the bolt head from above (or the sides) in the engine bay (you can just get a hand in there) and out they came without any trouble. 5 minutes total time for both of them? Yet another reason for a lift kit, they would be easy as pie then... B

I believe that is the low pressure return line from the PS box. Have you simply tried tightening the clamp a bit (don't over do it, at least at first) to see if that is enough to stop the leak? If the hose is cracked or split, you may be able to simply cut 1" off that end and re-clamp it, otherwise you will have to drain most of the fluid and replace the 12-16" section. Very easy to do, only a screw driver or 10mm (?) wrench needed. If you do drain some of the fluid (looks like yours could use being changed...) all you do to bleed it is fill up the reservoir, start the vehicle and turn the wheels from lock to lock several times. Check the fluid level, fill appropriately and repeat until there is no additional need to refill. B

I have a handled suction cup that I bet would work fairly well. That is where I would start... B

I was hoping to get $500 for it long block style but it is what the market will bear also. I kinda want to keep it as I think it runs better than what is in my daily driver, but do I really need 2 motors?? Probably not... B

I have never heard of depressing the pistons to refill the MC reservoir as a bleeding method and quite frankly, question it. raditionally used the 2 person method; 1 person depresses the brake pedal while the second releases and retightens a bleeding nipple allowing the MC to push out the fluid. Yes, do the ABS unit last, I was trained to start from the farthest from the MC and work progressively to the closest. Yes, the procedure is identical for the ABS unit, nipple and all. B

I'll have to pretty much agree that there is little point in changing anything. If you wheel, you probably want the heavier flywheel and the stock clutch is quite adequate for anything other than racing. B

If the alt is good, check your (ground) battery connections on both ends. B

LOL For pathfinders anyway... Yeah, I just fully removed a set in a junk yard including all required trim. It all snaps/clips together or has clearly accessable phillip head screws. B

Im pretty sure he was in NJ but it could have been NY and he destroys pathfinders like the Blues Brothers destroy old Chryslers... Anyone you would want to have help you with this will already have their own welder. Damn Simon, nice offer!! B

I'm at work and didn't watch the video, but my last pathy did something like that when the center (coil) electrode in the distributor cap disappeared. It was literally arcing from the electrode spring down to the rotor to run. It stumbled a bit at lower RPM but otherwise ran ok. It's a quick, easy check. B

I'd give yourself more time that that and there is no substitute for daylight. Bag and tag everything and have people work on specific things or you may run into the 'too many cooks' scenario. All in all, it really isn't that hard but there are some tricks like pulling the tranny back and removing the radiator to get the motor out so you don't have to remove the front differential (IIRC). Both Slick and k9sar have swapped motors and done some sort of write ups. I know there are more, I just can't remember who. Too bad you aren't closer, I have a spare motor with 130k on it that runs perfectly to sell... B

LOL My pleasure... Make sure you have a full brake reservoir, attach a line to the brake bleeding nipple, put the other end in a container, loosen the nipple about 1/2 turn and wait. After a few minutes fluid will start dripping out of the line, about a drop every 2-4 seconds. Wait a while then lock the nipple shut, remove the line and move on to the next one. Of course, don't let the MC fluid level get too low, I always work from farthest to closest to the MC (but you only have to do the rears) and make sure to bleed the ABS unit it's self!! Hopefully you weren't joking or I just wasted 3 minutes of my life... B

Look?? I'm thinking more like the module or coil or something, but that's just guessing... B

The ECU is plug and play other than it 'learning' again when it is plugged in. It really seems like you have something failing or grounding out or something. Sorry I can't help more but I'm a nuts and bolts guy... B

Try to find MaxStryker (I think that is the spelling), he was up that way and would probably help for a few pennies. What ever you do, do NOT let him drive it though!! B

Did you know that there is red mold growing on your dash?? Must be due to all the wetness... Good placement but I'll have to find somewhere else. My oil filter is there. B

In both my 95s, the ABS light was on, even after I flushed/bled the entire system. I ignored it until Simon once posted that his light was on until he gravity bled the rear (passenger, driver, ABS module on the mid-inner passenger frame rail) so I tried the same and it worked. Seriously, no joke. Try gravity bleeding it before proceeding... B

This somewhat applies... I just bought a 99.0 Pathy with 152k miles on it and the first thing I did was tighten the front wheel bearings (I'll see if they need replacing this spring). Yes, it is double the mileage but you have aftermarket wheels, probably go off road and have snow/salt to contend with; this truck has neither. So depending on how well they were set and what the road conditions/your driving style is I would say that it is not suprising that the wheel bearings could have loosened up. Loose does not necessarily mean they have gone out. Sometimes repacking with grease and and retorqueing them is all that is needed. Remember, 75k miles is driving around the world 3 times... Oh, 1.5 years ago I bought a 95 with 96k miles on it. The driver side wheel bearings were so bad, they were crunchy when I tightened them up. This truck was stock and not wheeled either... B