Precise1

Personally, I would check things for proper function, and as long as it checks out, leave it alone. There is rarely benefit in fixing something that isn't broken but sometimes there is a lot of grief!! That goes for the canister and EGR as well... B

Admittedly, our search function sucks. Sometimes I have a hard time finding something and I know exactly what I'm looking for, not just general information. Best I can say is try to play with words and variables such as "zj coils" or jeep+lift+springs and see what you get. A lot of us will try to supply links if we know where specific threads are... B

I may need to mess with the TPS but had heard that is was a major pita, thanks for the confirmation... I really don't have any good ideas for you. Have you checked a FSM to see if they recommend any test procedures?? As for cross testing the ECU, yeah, you can borrow mine. It is off of a 95 from New York though. I don't how much of a difference that would make. B

I already answered you in another thread... B

There is no cap on any tranny cooler I have ever seen. The air gets burped into the tranny but this is not a problem as the ranny is vented. Any trapped air can reduce the cooling ability so to avoid this, most people plumb the lines so the inlet is on the bottom. I have heard that there is enough pressure and flow that this is not necessary, but it seems to me that it couldn't hurt. B

I suspect you are going to have a hard time getting to the second O2 sensor... (there isn't one) The diffs are easy. Use a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar to loosen them and always remove the fill plug before the drain plug. Haynes will be just fine to walk you through. Everything else should be straight forward as well. Good luck... B

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT32599_10.pdf http://www.hydrafil.com/fleetguard-hf6500-p-6811.html I haven't found the mount yet, but I'm sure it is easy to find, I'm just not looking correctly. B

$1-2k for a 3.3 when a 3.0 goes for $500?? I'll have to find a rolled truck... B

Did you check for proper fuel pressure? B

Ok, B was here twice so lets refocus. Keep the Ho'ing in the PoHo and the rest of the threads on track as much as possible. Thanks guys... B

I see zip ties everywhere!!! Can you give a make of the filter mount/filter and perhaps a source?? B

More like "we sit here and eat pistachios until the perps show up" vehicle. Still, it's the mileage and treatment that count. Police usually service their cars regularly so I suspect you have a good find after you get the age related bugs worked out... B

Just FYI, we strongly prefer a question only to be posted once and in only one place. Having duplicate threads confuses the replies and makes looking it up in the future more difficult. I answered in the WD21 section. Thanks... B

It is pretty straight forward, I just removed one from a parts truck. Some people also just cut and patch the flex line using a barb end fitting and hose clamps... B

Yes, you can hit 20+ mpg in a pathy but that is about it. Jack it up, play with the exhaust, run big heavy tires and it can drop to 12-15... B

Oh My. Do not let that mechanic do any more work on the truck and dispute paying for what has been done as he is obviously incompetent!! The engine must be rotated to TDC on the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke and then the cams must be rotated to align with the marks on the rear timing cover. When the belt goes on and is tensioned, there must be 40 teeth between cam sprocket marks and 43 between the drivers side cam sproket mark and the one on the crank pully (numbers may be backwards). How the hell else would anyone know how things were sync'd?? There are several full write ups on this, one by a certified nissan mechanic for reference, but the first step is to get your truck away from that hack before he damages it even more. Al low rpm you have a better chance of light damage, but it can still occur. If the valve train is way out of time, more damage can occur rotating the motor, but if it is too far out, it will hand up at some point. Have the timing belt properly installed and then do a compression check, that is how I would proceed. B

Looks great!! Now you just have to paint/powdercoat the rest of the truck... B

Pump or squeeze bottle with a clear hose and patience. B

The alternator is on the opposite side, is it not, and what about the power steering pump? Is there even one an an R50?? It seems like it would be easier to set up all the WD accessories. I'll have to take a good look when I get home... B

Buy one Silverpath, and he'll tell you... Thanks Beavis. B

Sweet, I was waiting to hear that!! Good job. B

Welcome Bud and congrats on your 'new' Pathfinder!! Only 66k miles?? I'm jealous!! Ok, one thing that needs to be done unless you are certain it has been replaced in a timely manner is the timing belt. This is an interference motor so it's bad news if it fails!! The recommended replacement interval for your year (94-95) is 105k miles or 4 years. Obviously, yours may have the age issue. I recently replaced the belt on my 95 with 98k miles on it and the belt still looked decent but I wasn't going to risk it. You can get a factory belt from Alkorahil for about $40 or so and there are several threads to walk you through the procedure. Depending on what size tires you plan to run, your vehicle usage and what your budget is like dictates what lifts to use. Suspension lift, body lift, or both... Look in the Garage and WD21 sections for pinned threads and search for anything else. Stock aluminum rims are 7" wide with about 3.75" back spacing?? I have not measured any personally but I now run 8" wide/4" BS steel rims. Yes, a tranny cooler should also be priority and a tranny temp gauge is also a good idea... B

Too true!! I meant to do this, but weather interfered. I will have to remove my ARB to install the winch and another tranny cooler, so I will plan to map it out then. It will be a couple of months though... B

Rought country and Superlift are the same thing, just different paint/zink coating. I thought I heard that the Rough countries are discontinued though?? Also there seems to be some question as to if the AC UCAs are sufficiently angled to correct the upper ball joint alignment when the truck is lifted (the whole point). Many people have run them without mishap though... B

I'm guessing that you used grade 8.8 bolts (metric values). I used grade 10.9 and so far so good. M8x1.25x25mm is the correct thread size/pitch/length designation. I used 30mm long bolts without the thick washers and there was sufficient thread in the hole so they didn't bottom out. No way in hell was I going to pay up to $100 for a factory set of studs/nuts. That's just insane!! B