Precise1

Damn, no compression what so ever?? Well, with a little bit of luck the valves are still open on the compression stroke but nothing has hit and all that it needs is a new timing belt and re clocking of all the pulleys. Well, I didn't say that very well, did I? What I was trying to say is that you might have to rotate the dizzy to significantly change the timing to get it to try to fire if the timing belt has slipped. At this point it sounds like you have to dig in and determine how much the T belt jumped. B

Nope, never seen them before. Odd that there isn't even a manufacturer listed. Considering you can buy a set of Mile Markers for the same or less, I personally wouldn't bother with them. B

Nope, just mount them and drive. Within a mile or two the fenders will get sucked in and torn off and you will not have a worry after that. Seriously though, there is a lot of info on lifts and tire sizes already logged. I'm busy making soup but when I'm done, I'll do a search if you haven't. B

I do not know that info for the R50s, but I'm sure it is in the Factory Service Manual. Go to the Garage section, there is a pinned thread there where you can download one for free... B

When is the last time it was fully tuned up?? (Spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires) First, go to the Garage section and the pinned topic of Factory Service Manuals and download the 1994 version, it is the oldest one available and applies to 90% of your truck. Second, check the ECU under the passenger seat for stored fault codes, there is a write up in the Garage/How To section. Third, clean your MAF element and check the wiring connection (wiggle while running is a good indicator), there is a write up in the Garage/How To section. Fourth, check the resistance of the O2 sensor with an ohm meter, the values should be in the FSM. Replace if it fails. Fifth, check vacuum lines for cracks/leaks (I use WD-40. Spray a suspected line while the engine is running, if the idle surges, you have found a leak. Sisth, check the EGR valve for proper function. Details in the FSM. That should keep you busy for a while and rule out the common culprits. Let us know what you find... B

Sheet metal is extremely easy to aquire, both on the internet or through local metal suppliers or scrap yards. As for thickness, measure what is currently used there and consider that a minimum... B

I could send you a used stock one for under $100... B

and/or slower speeds/stopped. Sounds like everything is working properly. B

It sounds like you are ok. Paper is .003-.004" thick and the spec can't be that tight. If there is the slightest burr, rolled edge, grit or bend you would feel a wobble but the gasket will negate it. I am assuming the the ruler you used was dead straight... B

Bah, I put my ARB on by myself!! (with 3 jacks, many blocks, straps, a tree and a come-a-long. B

A stout piece of glass evenly supported should be quite flat (I have a small granite slab) but a proper straight edge will suffice as well. Use them in conjunction with light and feeler gauges. B

I do have a picture, but where is the question. If the posts don't answer you, I'll keep looking... B

Just to throw it in, I have a 95 Pathy with a 2" lift with no radiator drop and only the fan shroud bottom 1/3 clip removed. It cools like stock, no problems what so ever. I've been driving Nissan trucks for over 15 years and I have never had a cooling issue ever. Well, the radiator cap lip broke on me once so I couldn't secure the cap, but never from overheating, even in the deserts of Baja in July. From what I can tell, Nissan designs the cooling system so the thermostat will meter temperature and not have the cooling system run at max capacity unless you drive into an active volcano... B

Ok, that's a better shot. You lost a few degrees but no biggie, and my ARB caused the same. The first shot made it seem like a lot more... B

Bump B

Well, it never hurts to try... It sounds like you are on the right track now. B

Someone should send them some Mr Jim footage of one Pathfinder after another going past an obstacle or something like that... B

That would also be acceptable... B

It might not help at all, but it might keep you from throwing $ in the wrong direction. That said, it might need all those parts anyway... The belt jumping is generally not a damaging event, it just requires replacement and reclocking of the pulleys. No real rhyme or reason to when belts jump from what I can tell, but my experience is all second hand. Not having been changed regularly, tensioner issues and fluid leaks may be involved. B

Well, the timing belt is intact (hopefully it didn't just jump), you have fuel, and it's pretty hard not to have air, so just about the only things left are compression or spark. You changed the coil so perhaps you have a break in the coil wire, or the rotor is burnt down, or... One thing you may want to try is to loosen the dizzy as if you are going to adjust the ignition timing (after marking it's position well) and rotating it while trying to start the pathy. If the belt jumped, the dizzy may need to be reset to get it to fire. Maybe the crank angle sensor in the dizzy?? Have you checked the ECU for codes yet?? B

You can do CAI, cams, headers, ECU reprogram, and exhaust for power. Exhaust is recommended to be 2-2.5" single pipe depending on configuration. I have headers, high flow cat and a Flowmaster Delta 60 with 2.25" piping and that is almost too much IMHO. B

Fix the Evap problems first. IIRC the 2nd o2 sensors (after the cat) do not influence the fuel mixture, but may be there for smog purposes?? Regardless, they need to be checked out. Gross leak and Vent Control Valve obviously doesn't help. Go to the Garage section and the pinned Service Manual thread to download a service manual for your truck which will explain exactly how to troubleshoot these items. B

Please don't stick your fingers in the fan!! This is my simplistic checking method. Spin the fan quickly by hand with the engine cold and off. It should spin 1/4-1/2 turn, not bind or free wheel. When you first start it cold, you should hear fan roar which fades within 1 minute or so as the fan clutch warms up. Your temperature does not significantly increase when you come to a stop after driving 25+mph. Your truck actually warms up. If it passes these criteria, your fan clutch still works as it should. If either of these exist, it probably wont last too much longer. B

FYI, 22mm= .866" and 7/8"=.875" so while I always try to use the correct sized tools, some interchangability is allowed, such as 13mm-1/2", 19mm-3/4" and in this case 7/8 should work fine also. Quite frankly, this is a great item to use to mount skid plates to!! Calling all custom fabbers!! Calling Jackson Autosports!!! Make some skid plates where this bar holds the back of the front plate and the front of the mid plate... I want one for the wife's R50. If I have material laying around at work, I'll make one as was shown, but if not I'll happily buy it too. B

Some people have reported problems after using the MAF cleaners. Pay $3 for a bottle or isopropyl alcohol, grab a screw drivers (phillips IIRC) and some Q tips and clean it 'manually'. I've done this on WD21s and an R50 and the procedure is identical other than the unit placement and shape, the R50 is easier to access IIRC. B