Precise1

In all seriousness Bud, don't worry about it. No one can please all of the people all of the time. I'm sure all of the regulars recognize your value and that you are a good, helpful guy. That's pretty much all that matters. As for how the rating system works, I have no idea. I have never clicked the button once and have more important things to do that vote on a popularity contest... B

I've not had this problem so I don't know first hand but I remember quite a few threads about similar issues. IIRC 5235Pathfinder wrote a comprehensive troubleshoot guide and it is pinned. Damn, now I have to go look to see if I can find it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19755&st=0&p=338812&hl=entry&fromsearch=1entry338812 B

Here is some info that was supplied to me by a dealership mechanic. It may help you too... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27522&view=findpost&p=513451 Thanks again Derek!! B

88PathOffRoad weighed his in and it was 4200lbs without gear IIRC and he didn't run bumpers, winches, etc. 4-4.5 k will cover 95% of WD21s. They are pretty stout... B

I'm considering giving you another negative mark just because you seem to care... B

Most o-rings will work, you just have to get the right size and oil resistant. If you can measure yours, I have a selection of brown Viton (high temp/oil resistant) o-rings at work. If they have the right size, I'll set you up. B

When I had U joints fail, what I did was jack up the Pathy (all 4 in the air), start it, put it in gear and looked underneath. It was pretty obvious when the I saw the transmission wagging around down there... Do this safely, with jack stands, etc... B

Yes and no Adam. I bought my second pathy with less than 100k miles on it and the wheel bearings were loose. I greased and tightened them properly and the passenger side was fine while the drivers side were crunchy. At that point I replaced the bearings and seal. Perhaps someone set them poorly, but regardless, once they are loose they can be damaged quickly and easily. It can't hurt to try just the lube and torque though... B

Yep, brass screws in the back should be checked for tightness. This might help, but is an easy first try. Second is the voltage regulator IIRC. Someone did a write up on how to troubleshoot/repair it. Let me know if you can't find it... B

Dated or not, the 15" LT tire exists for a very specific reason... If you go off road, stick with the 15" rims. Oh, the guy who told you they hardly make any 15" wheels needs a smack up side the head and a broom to push. B

Damn, I missed this!! I would have told him that the rear nozzle sprays blinker fluid and that he should remove and refill the tail lights just to be safe... B

Agreed, problems electrical suck!! Still, this shouldn't be too bad... Check the voltage at the starter when you crank it, if you get less than 10-11 volts (IIRC) it could just be the wire to it. ALso, is the battery good (I have had them fail during a 2 mile drive) and make sure you have a good ground (and positive) connection, you won't get enough draw without it. k9sar wrote up an excellent starter troubleshoot/repair post but I don't think it is pinned anywhere. It should be so if you find it, post a link please... B

Sweet!! Nothing wrong with that!! Ya got lucky so far Bud... B

Yeah, fuse box and fusable links first. Stay calm, grab your multimeter and start seeing where the voltage goes and doesn't go. Plenty of people near you have parts trucks so wiring type items should be pretty easy to find. Yeah, that was pretty boneheaded. I hope damage is minimal. B

B

The OE unit is desirable as it was generally considered the strongest available. I have no idea if these are actual OE or imported remakes, or if that matters. That is a good price... B

No, you (r50s) have drive flanges that constantly spin the CVs and WD21's have autolocking hubs that engage once 4wd has been selected. You can shift on the fly no problem and also get 1-2 mpg less for the privilege... B

B

Damn, I was off!! I could have sworn it was 12-15 lbs. Maybe those are Canadian specs... Also Mike, just a FYI, you can always got to the Garage section, there is a pinned topic on Factory Service Manuals that tells you where to download one... B

Personally, I always stop when shifting to, from or in 4wd but I know some people report it is unnecessary. Take your hubs off, apart, clean everything, make sure nothing is damaged, lightly grease everything, reassemble and test drive. B

That sucks!! The add you posted looks favorable, relatively low mileage and seems like an honest representation. It might be worth checking out. Motors vary but can be had for $500 or so, they you have the old one to either build up or just scavenge for parts. I have a motor with 132k on it (runs flawlessly) in my part out vehicle, but it might be too far from you to deal with. B

The front diff needs to be removed to drop the tranny?? That is incorrect... B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27673&view=findpost&p=517705 This is what I remember as others determining what is correct. Loctite in blue is probably a good idea too... Also brother machinist, do what I intend and make a selection of washers for your alignment guy to use so that if there is an issue of the bolts stretching or backing out then they don't just drop out and then you are screwed... Doesn't have to be anything special, just grind some standard washers down. I'm going to pull a bolt on the parts truck tomorrow if it isn't raining, to see what thread they are. B

Yeah, I'll agree to that (you are lucky)!! IIRC the crank bolt is 27mm (1&1/16") and put a breaker bar on it that is braced on top of the frame, disconnect the coil wire for safety and just bump the starter once, it will break the bolt loose without fuss. Better check the rotation of the motor to make sure you are bracing the breaker bar the right direction though, my memory is faulty in my old age... B

Hey, welcome to NPORA. I have not had this problem myself, but from what I understand the knock sensor code can be triggered by many other failures. It is quite likely you have an injector failure that is the culprit. I do not know how to trouble shoot the knock sensor, but I recommend looking at the top here in the Garage Section in the Factory Service Manual thread and download your own copy, it can be invaluable. I had to troubleshoot injectors on my wife's R50 and I was able to find an injector that was intermittently failing (only when hot after the motor was restarted) by checking the resistance (4-12 ohms or something like that, it's in the manual) so keep that in mind too. B