Precise1

I was just going to recommend checking the TPS... What you gained by removing 14 lbs of rotational weight, I suspect you lost with higher RPM. The difference in tire circumference is about 15% so what speed was 2500 rpm before is now about 2875. You'd probably get the best mileage with 31" tires; I'm guessing you have 4.6 gears? Hows your U joints, are you running heavy oils, any brake drag? All that said, the Pathy has the aerodynamics of dumpster (and damn near the weight of one) and an underpowered motor with tall gearing. There isn't much you can do to get huge gains in mileage... B

You either weren't getting a good consistent contact on them (possibly due to lead wires or plugs) or there is an issue with your multimeter. I had one where the selector ring cracked so it worked properly intermittently and went wild other times. I replaced it and have no issues now. I have checked the injectors also and got good readings without any real issue. I eventually did find a bad one and the multimeter read accordingly. 10-14 ohms or something like that is the proper range, I can't remember exactly. I had an intermittent failing injector, it only happened when it was hot, sat and restarted so if you may want to take both a hot and cold reading, it does make a difference... B

Merry Crickets to you too!! Just finished eating sushi and miso soup with my wife, mom and a friend... B

So first you explain what the oil grades and thickness mean, then you suggest topping off with an unknown amount of Marvel Snake Oil (overfilling) and driving a full change interval, never mind the burn off? Oh, BTW, you've never done it? Really? B

Most reviews for that I have seen for Redline MT-90 have been positive and you can get 5 qts for about $80. If $ is no issue and you want an install and forget, go with the MT=90. Make sure your breather hoses are hooked up and try not to park in deep water though... I'm willing to bet 5 qts is good enough, especially since not everything will be drained out anyway. Just my thought... B

1/4 thick UHMW PE antistatic (black) 24x48" runs about $80 here (can be had a little cheaper) http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=86209939&PMPXNO=4472528&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults 1/4 thick HDPE (white) 24x48" runs about $50 here (can be had a little cheaper) http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=52421575&PMPXNO=1928249&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults A local supplier should be cheaper with no shipping... B

Hmm, didn't know that... Yes, they can be used but I suspect they would be more expensive than buying it in raw sheet form. PE is tough stuff weather ir is HD or UHMW, but I do know that the UHMW is used for conveyors and mining chute linings, ideal in my mind. Besides, the tougher it is the thinner you can go with, making it cheaper and easier to form. My knee jerk reaction is from someone actually bolting or wiring a cutting board underneath their truck. While it may work and be better than nothing, it still makes me cringe. I'm not the ultimate custom fab guy, but come on!! B

No worries mate!! I'll always recommend erring on the safe side myself, but hopefully the guy can go see his family without any drama or danger. That is a good sign that it doesn't seem to heat up. Still, it is hard to make a judgement call on the internet. Can you take any audio of it? B

Napa seems to have quality items rebranded for them. I can't vouch for the oil, but I know their oil filters are made by Wix and are top notch. I suspect it would work just fine. If you buy a gallon, throw in 1 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and you have about the right fill amount. Here, the cheapest I could find, and it is 85w90 not 75w90. When I put 85w90 in my first pathy, it shifted hard into 1st and 2nd for a mile or two on cold mornings (35 degrees) but otherwise worked fine... http://www.wayfair.com/CRC-1-Gallon-Hypoid-GL-4-Multi-Purpose-Gear-Oil-SL24239-SL24239-OEB1354.html?refid=FR49-OEB1354 B

GL5 has something GL4 doesn't, sulphur? Phosphorus? I can't recall, but it is documented here with links, articles and testimonials; what ever it is, it eats at the brass components, causing them to fail. 87pathfinder (let me look it up, the guy with the exocage SAS pathy) runs a heavy weight Amsoil product that isn't specified as GL-4 but doesn't have that ingredient and it works fine for him. At the end of he day, why gamble? B

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This might be some of the problem, 5w30 synthetic might be too thin. Next time you do an oil change, try some Castrol 10w30 or 10-40, both should be fine from 10-100 degrees IIRC. Remember, 5-30 synthetic wasn't even on the market when this motor was designed... It couldn't hurt to do an an engine case flush before hand. I'll try to look up what I used, but most any should work fine, just follow the directions to the letter and flush it with cheap oil/filter after. B

Ok, so limited miles and you haven't really tested it, but it's not like it came apart in 100 miles. Can you take it for a 20-30 minute 'test drive' at freeway speeds to see if it starts to worsen? Also, check the temp if you do this (by hand at least) to see if there is a lot of heat/friction. At this point, I'd guess that that it could be ok. I doubt it would seize all of a sudden without some sort of warning, but you'll have to be prepared to pull over at any time and what do you do if you are an hour away from home and family? B

Damn!! jj big shoe's thread doesn't have pictures in it anymore either. That was 2 hard drives ago for me so I doubt any pictures still exist. Let me see if jj has any... B The only picture I can find is here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17159&view=findpost&p=278787

Has it gotten any worse in the time you have owned it and how far have you driven it since you bought it? B

SOrry, I used UHMW PE. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6031&st=0&p=64248&hl=+uhmw%20+&fromsearch=1entry64248 I still have a piece in my garage to make one for my WD21... Most any plastic supply place but I think I ordered mine from MSC Industrial Supply. IIRC Anti static is black, fiberglass impregnated is blue and the pure stuff is white. I used 1/2" but 3/8 is probably sufficient. JJ_BIG_SHOE has the one I made on his truck, he said he hit a tree stump at over 20mph and all he did was slide back off of it with barely a scratch in the plate... http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/NavigationServlet/Plastic-Sheets/_/N-77dt7?cm_re=Category-_-BodyLink-_-Plastic+Sheets&Ntk=All_MSC&Ntt=uhmw+pe&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&rawInput=uhmw+pe%C2%A2uhmw+pe B

HDPE all the way, who wants the weight of steel if it isn't necessary. HDPE can also be hot formed with a torch... B

Well, once you pick things up, it doesn't matter how far the store is. Just saying... One generally buys per job, but there are a few things to invest in. In my opinion the torque wrench, caliper and stethescope are tools that are used for years and can not be substituted so are important to have available for any job and can be had for about $100 total. I understand young (and probably broke), I've been there!! Just do what you can... Ok, so if you are the only one that can hear it, it doesn't sound like a big problem. What weight oil are you running? I recall someone running thicker oil and getting lifter noise, and switching to thinner only to have it go away. Where abouts do you live and what thickness oil do you have? B

Agreed on the scope, for the $10-15 you pay they work so well that everyone who works things should own one. No one buys them at my recommendation though, it seems like they already have them or they just don't get it. The 30mm bolts worked fine with me with Thorley headers and I'm pretty sure that factory cast manifolds are thicker at the mounting points. When Poop gets off of me I'll grab some calipers and do some measuring. Calipers, another thing people either already have or don't get the value of... :shrug:/:shrug: Yeah, if you have a few dollars handy, grab one. You'll use it for years and it'll pay for its self with the first problem/question it solves/answers for you. As Nunya said, you can warp the components, actually causing them to leak and you can damage the threads on the aluminum heads. A torque wrench would be another really important tool if you keep working on things. 10-90 or 100 ft/lbs will deal with 95% of applications and you can get them for $50 and under. I prefer clickers but a beam type will work fine also. I was joking about the hearing, I should have put a smiley. I was a little rushed at work. B

Use a mechanic's stethescope (or a solid rod/long screw driver) to try to locate the source of the noise. FYI that is too tight IIRC, it is something like 12-15ft/lbs? Is your dad deaf or are you a dog? It is possible that you have bottomed out. Get a longer bolt with the same threads and check to see how deep it will thread in before it bottoms out. B

Yes, exactly, IIRC at idle with it warm it should make the motor stumble a bit. For good troubleshooting info, go to the Garage section/pinned service manual info to download your own copy of the Factory Service Manual. It is invaluable for this type of information... B

I recommend these... B

The lower control arm?? Different nomenclature. Unfortunately, I believe the answer remains the same. They do not need changing often and are a pain to deal with IIRC. Can you set it up on a hydraulic press? B

LOL You make it sound as if every Pathy is rusted in 1/2. The ones that rust are from salt states or wheeled and never cleaned. There are rust free Pathys swarming the West Coast... Most of this is well documented, but I'll do a break down. This will get you a fairly capable set up. 1)Superlift UCAs, Rough Country (black painted Superlifts) have been discontinued and might be hard to find. 2)Longer stocks in the rear, the front don't change unless they are worn out. 3)Rear sway bar disconnect (it's nice to have on the road) 4)Rear lift springs (several types and sources available from junk yards to AC, Calmini and even Jeep springs from the local store) 5)Crank up the stock torsion bars until the bump stops have about 1/2" (13mm clearance). About 2-2.5" of lift? The following is optional but recommended because they are cool: 1) Grassroots4x4.com center link 2) Skid plates 3) Rear locker 4) Bumpers 5) Sliders Unless I missed it, what type of wheeling do you plan on as almost no one does it all and it's hard to set up a rig for everything. IFS, you don't seem SAS ready and you need to answer the question above. UNCCP breaks a lot of parts, but that is because he looks for trails that are a challenge to him and his truck. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31862&view=findpost&p=601292 Pathys are good, but not rock crawlers so if that is what you are doing, you have a lot of work and $ ahead of you... B

^what he said on both accounts. Did you try soaking it with a penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc)? Another trick when heating like RJS said is to use one of those cans of compressed air on the sensor/bolt. Hold it upside down and give it a brief spray, you will freeze (or at least cool considerably) whatever it is... B