Precise1

$350 is a deal if they do a good job and use quality parts, especially with your surgery and all. Unfortunately, you haven't read the How-To so you are just asking questions that have been answered. I really recommend this course of action first... Regardless of some claims of short cuts, there is a reason most people follow the same procedure as a certified mechanic so don't make any decisions until you have read up on it. We'll support you regardless. B

The write-up in the How To section of the Garage was written by a Dealership mechanic and has been discussed and suplimented. Basic tools, a place to work and some time will get everything replaced cheaper than the labor a shop will charge. Read the write-up, get your parts/tools, prep your work space and get started on a Friday if possible. There is a lot to do, but I wouldn't say any of it is terribly hard. B

See, patience!!! B

It should be in the tool kit under the rear seats, and if it is not, sometimes they come up for sale with vehicles being parted out, can be found at junk yards, or even ask a local wrecker to set one aside for you. I'm not sure if the WD21 and the R50 unit are the same, I'll try to take a look today. You can also get the #6 plug with a plug socket and a few extensions, a universal joint at worst. The big thing is to mark on the firewall the position of the extension (to help align it when you are threading in the new one), and simply be patient. B

Have you tested for proper function? Did you make sure the tube was clear? IIRC it fouls with carbon and crap... B

It might be the same thing but there is always the tranny CPU diagnostics. The computer is behind the panneling by the rear passenger seat IIRC. Download the FSM in the Garage section, follow the instructions and look at the thread in the How To section. I'm sorry I can't really help more, I've not done it myself. This is my first auto tranny in over 20 years... B

From what you posted earlier, the dimensions are the same, it's the load or force that is different. Personally, I'd go with all WD21 (VG30) components, flywheel and clutch parts unless you want to risk a stiffer clutch. You have a VG30, a VG30 flywheel, so VG30 clutch makes sense to me. The tranny is just a gear box and shouldn't care less. That's just how I would do it on my truck with the info you have given. B If you have both on hand, you could gamble with one, swap if necessary and return if possible. The good news is that to just swap the clutch on a manual, you don't have to pull the tranny and t-bars, just pull it back a bit so you can get in there. All the other bolts will be fresh too, so it's not as bad as you would think...

^ I agree. Not good. Can you tell if you have flow? The return line with some temperature and pressure of the outline? Flushing is probably a good place to start. I don't know much about the autos either, which is why I put in a filter and temp gauge so I can hopefully mitigate any issues. B

Since you say it like that! No one wants to mess up their MAF, be it with sprays or Q-tips. I can't recall who it was that had issues with cleaner, but quite a few people chimed in. Obviously, do what you feel confortable with, and rest easy knowing that if you have issues with a spray cleaner, you can wipe it off with a Q-tip. Best of both worlds! B PS CRC does make good products, I have used them for years, just not that one.

Nice!! I used 2 cans of brake cleaner on mine (hint: Use a pan catching drips and overspray, then soak the starter in that, basting regularly. use the second can to flush and clean). It lasted another 4 years after that, and it looked like a refinery sump pump before I cleaned it. Are there any obvious impact marks or flaws around the bend? How high is the bend at it's apex and how far down the bar? B

It should help a lot, the only weak part I can see is the thin wall section. Still if it only works 10 times, it's still probably worth it. I believe there is a wrench that uses the same idea with the handle as leverage. Nope, not made any more apparently. I have the gator grip socket and the craftsman sockets, they have turned bad scenarios into minor inconveniences several times. B

Sounds good to me! One thing I'd recommend is to cut the bottom u-bolt on the mount a lot shorter and put a second nut on it that is wider than the remaining length of thread to protect the lead in. Personal preference, but you go off road and don't want that to catch on anything... B

Some people have reported issues with MAF cleaner spray. Personally I use a Q tip and isopropyl alcohol, just be gentle. I've done this on 2 WD21s and an R50 with no negative results and some obvious cleaning. Here is a write up and discussion. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5194-how-to-cleaning-your-maf-sensor/ B

That should do it! I'm glad you got it fixed and I'm sure you will be too... B

From my experience, usually issues with lugcentric wheels stem from only a few things. Improper mounting or torque/sequence, poorly made rims, or significantly oversized wheels/tires from stock specs. I can't say I have had any real problems with lugcentric, other than the time I lost a tire on a VW Bug but then I'm sure they weren't meant to run 31x10.5s either. My preference is to avoid spacers or adapters, but if it works for you, I'm glad you found a solution. B

Yeah, go to an exhaust shop. It will be an easy job for them... Keep the headers mounted. Even if they have to remove them to get a good weld all the way around, they'll want to tack everything up in place first. Fyi, I have used lap joint band clamps and Permatex Copper with considerable success. B

Figure out if you are going to reuse any of the exhaust and then just cut it off. I drove my Pathy to the exhaust shop 3 miles away with just the headers on. It was loud, but not as obnoxious as some idiotic straight piped Hardly Ableson. You seem to have a lot of issues with rust and siezed bolts, so check out some of these options... https://www.go2socket.com/ http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8 http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-10-pc-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Remover-Set-Low-Profile-Bolt-Out-reviews B

I have an all metal spare radiator. It's an aftermarket... B

I agree, take a look at the write-ups here before you decide not to do it yourself. There is a fair amount of work involved, but most of it is not hard, per se. If you have some tools, a place to work and a good friend to help, it can easily be managed in a weekend. I did mine by myself with the vehicle parked on the street, so it can't be that hard... All that said, sometimes it's better to have it done by a reputable shop; no one can make that call for you. B

I have similar marks on my windshield, but I haven't tried to remove them yet. As someone who works with optics (not usually glass though) I suspect some of the previous suggestion are on track. You probably want to try an aluminum oxide slurry or a diamond paste. These two will polish glass, but that is assuming there is on exterior coating. I have some slurry in the garage, but I won't have time to experiment for days. I just used the scratches as one of the reasons to offer less than asking price to the PO... B

That's what we expect to hear. I'm glad you got it rolling and are happy with it... B

We know of the h233b disk brake swap... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/14532-h233b-rear-drum-brake-to-disc-brake-swap/page__p__240760__hl__+disk%20+brake%20+swap#entry240760 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26367-rear-disc-brake-conversion/page__p__485583__hl__+rear%20+disk#entry485583 B

Understood. I put in a temp gauge because I don't trust automatics, much less 'idiot lights'. Ideally the tranny temp should stay below 200*f (93* C) other than occasional spikes that cool down before they can heat soak in. You might want to change it before your trip then, especially if it has a lot of miles on it. Tranny fluid often gets neglected. I'm jealous of your planned trip and yeah, a little bit of foresight and precaution can make the difference between enjoying yourself or not. 20 years ago I used to use coolant system flush products that seemed to work, but as it shouldn't be too expensive to take to a shop it might be worth letting someone else deal with it (and disposing of the coolant). They might even point out something? I do almost all my own work, but some things shops are better equiped to deal with and dispose of. B

No worries Bud. If you don't have much flow, it could obviously be the radiator partially blocked or the thermostat isn't opening up properly. The only way I have ever had a waterpump fail is by leaking, not lack of pumping. As long as the tranny is running at a reasonable temperature, then there is no reason to go with a larger cooler. Do you know the temperature? How does the fluid look? B

My apologies, but not only is it hard to gauge new members mechanical experience, it is always good to make sure the basics are covered. Even the most experienced of us have missed 'obvious' solutions or become fixated. You can't see what you aren't seeing, eh? Ok, so the fluid is good and so is the fan clutch. All that's left is the radiator, thermostat and condition of the cooling passages. WHen it is warmed up and running, can you see good flow with the radiator cap removed? You really shouldn't need a larger radiator if everything is working correctly. I can't recommend one because I can't ever recall anyone replacing theirs with a larger model over stock. I can't tell you if a Terrano2 oil cooler is a good idea as I have never seen one. For some reason I read that as a transmission fluid cooler, so that was my mistake. B