Precise1

Well, the fuel has to be going somewhere so either someone is siphoning it out, you have a leak or you are running rich. I'd say you are 'using' fuel roughly double the rate you should. Where is the exhaust leak? Pre or post O2 sensor? This could be a big player. Look for intake/vacuum leaks, check MAF and O2 for proper functioning, check exhaust for block/leak, check ECU coolant temp sensor for proper functioning, and do a general tune up(some you have already). The good thing is that most of this stuff is just labor, not throwing parts/$ at it. How many miles on thy charriot BTW? B

Good point, I didn't consuider that. How thick are the shims? I wouldn't have thought .02-.03" would matter and you rarely have to turn down farther than that. Yep, I've had good luck with Rock Auto. Absolutely, that's one of the reasons I recommend him constantly. Sounds like you are making some good progress, keep it up! B

Just for the record... B

B

No, a new one will be freshly machined and a remanufactured unit will have been turned down already. I looked at having my flywheel faced but wound up buying a remanufactured unit at Napa IIRC for $60 and my old one; it was the same price and faster. Flywheels don't always need to be resurfaced, but if the clutch wore down to the rivets, there is significant glazing or chattering on the surface it is a good idea. Look at it the same way as rotors and just use common sense.. B

Well, then you get to polish them!! Glad you found what you wanted. B

Yeah, I've used double nuts to install and remove before but it can be kinda hokey and even hard to release without turning the stud, I'm sure you know what I'm saying. I only mentioned it because you've tried quite a few things by now and probably just want the damn things to stay put. Ok, these are specific per thread. You should be able to use a torque wrench on it easily. I haven't used them because I haven't replaced a stud for perhaps a decade, but the tools are popular. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEALEY-TOOLS-MOTORBIKE-STUD-INSTALLER-TOOL-M6-M8-M10-/160837424016?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2572a85390 Here is the same thing from what I can tell and it looks like you can just buy the one. http://www.midstatetool.com/products/?category=47&id=24361 This is a different style, looking like it works off of cam tension to grip the OD, much like most of the stud removers but can be used to install and remove. I've used removal tools like this and they have worked well. http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-200-8-Installer/dp/B000I1LU0A/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1351020345&sr=8-10&keywords=stud+installer I like that you can torque (and retorque) easily with these and that can make a big difference. B

That and a pry bar should tell you what is going on, but the tension rod bushings are a sure bet anyway. AFAIC they should be a regular 60,000 mile maintenence item. B

Hopefully you can buy the quantity you need, but they are available from a lot of sources. Here's to them doing the trick (with some Loctite). Do you have a stud installer? That might help also... B

Absolutely, the minor diameter of the thread is smaller than shoulder and the weakest point. Try this place... http://catalog.automotivefasteners.com/viewitems/threaded-fasteners-rods-and-studs/metric-studs B

^Pretty much what they said. B

Good point, I don't recall seeing that myself, but I wasn't looking for it. In that scenario, yes, the studs would be better supported, but only if the bore/OD was firmly engaged. I could have sworn that people had issues with Warns supplied studs so they might not be a good source. LOL, apparently you know that as per your post... B

Did you get a belt with the lines on it? It makes it easier when you are learning. The marks on the cam pullys will line up (roughly) with the dimples on the timing cover and there is (usually) a dot down below for the crank. From there I recommend counting the teeth, it's hard to mess up that way other than the counting part. I counted about 3 or 4 times before I was confident I didn't miscount... You can use a special tool (read fish scale or weight) or you can use the 90* twist rule, both get you to almost the same place. Do not overtighten though, that can cause bad things to happen, like the tensioner stud to break. I've used the 90* method twice now with no issues so far. B

That light bar is the one and only advantage the 2 door has over the 4 door... 3 days ago I put a gallon of fresh gas in it, fired it up ( B

They merged with someone else to become TAG, Tactical Armor Group ( ). http://tacticalarmorgroup.com/ B

Step one is to gently remove the instrument cluster and make sure the brass screws that double as contact points are tight. That seems to solve some problems (I've had a dead Tach come back to life once it was swapped to another vehicle, and then there was te speedo...) B

Good work, just keep at it before the weather gets nasty. Don't sweat it other than not letting the non-freeaing time slip by. (what the hell was I trying to say?) I like your photography and would like to talk about it. I'm also in the same place where I have far more to do than just that. Keep it going, we'll guide you when we can. B

Yes, I rented a tranny jack (swore I'd buy one next time I do it and recommend the same). It was large and heavy, but I was by myself. The height I had to jack the truck to to get it to clear was a little alarming though (no lift). I was just wondering how Tungsten dealt with his tranny removal that 'it's really not that bad' for him. B

^Werd! B

Tex who? B

Members in the past have donated $, Red was footing it for a while (voluntarily IIRC), and currently the bills are paid for a while. As Simon mentioned, the forced move was actually a significant savings of $. Out of curiosity, why do you ask? B

Uh, good luck with the surgery. B

^good call. *oops, that was in reference to Trogdor's last post* There is absolutely no harm in using tap water to flush the cooling system. You DO NOT want to use it to fill the radiator or mix with antifreeze for vehicle operation unless it is an emergency. That is when you use distilled water. B

I used grade 10.9 M6x1x30 M8x1.25 x30mm sockethead cap screws IIRC. I see no reason studs are superior, but everyone has a different opinions. B Oops, bad thread info...

Really? They are a bit large and heavy. How did you deal with the one you took out? B