vengeful

Mine is one piece, and I like it that way. TJM redesigned the bumpers later in production to reduce shipping/freight costs, and to make manufacture easier. The two peice bumpers are the newer design, but I think you lose a little bit of rigidity because of it.

If you measure the backspacing, you can use the above chart to determine your offset. If I'm remembering correctly, I think the backspacing of the 7JJx15 Alloys (SE wheels) is 4.75", but I'm not 100%. 4.75" would equate to approximately a +20 offset.

Usually, when you order struts alone, they just come as struts. The covers and top-hats are sold separately. Do NOT buy the KYB strut mounts, they will disintegrate on you in a matter of months. The OEM Nissan ones are the best, and really the only option there. Though, they are rather expensive, they're worth it. They should both come with the top nuts, as it's not recommended to re-use them, but if they don't have them, you can source it from the dealer. When I received my struts from Tire Rack, they were partially compressed (to ride height), so I couldn't tell you one way or the other. I will say that I could NOT compress them by hand though. The KYB GR-2s are very stiffly valved.

My TJM was plowed into a couple of small cars, a stone wall, a VERY large rock (Pizza Rock at Rausch Creek for those who know it). And it's no worse for the wear. A couple scuffs, but no damage to speak of.

T-15 is simply the Style of bumper, not the part number. Each bumper is vehicle specific, so no, you can't just find one from another vehicle.

ET is Offset. Offset is measured from the center line of the wheel, in mm. -5ET means that the wheel mounting surface of the rim is 5MM towards the inside edge from center. Which translates into approximately 4" backspacing on an 8.5" wheel.

eBay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Black-Nissa...sspagenameZWDVW

Um, yeah, it's held on by 4 immediately obvious bolts. Just get under there and look, it's not that hard.

OMG...LMAO

Funny how her R50 has surpassed Dean's (XplorX4). Dean's is still the Gold Standard in my book, but Pezzy's gets a lot more exposure on here, what with her being Admin and all... I took a LOT of inspiration from Dean when I built my Pathfinder, and definitely tapped him as a great resource several times over during my build. I'm sure Pezzy would say the same thing, too. Images credit to Xplorx4.

That's worse than Team RamRod.

Yeah, with those brackets, there is no way in HELL I would put a winch on that bumper, let alone feel safe driving it on the road.

Here are some images that KMA sent me a while back... Here, you can see the stock bumper supports without the brackets. Here, you can see where they've modified the frame extensions to clear their brackets. Here you can see the holes drilled for the brackets. Here you can see how the bracket for the bumper mounts to the frame extensions. Other side. TJM T-15 bracket for comparison. The KMA is weak, cheap and quite shoddy, actually.

My installation pics, and some of Simon's, too. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2049...amp;id=24404599

Whoa! That's a blast from the past! I formed that a few years ago when we were trying to get TJM to make more. They said they'd need at least 250 paid orders for it to financially make sense for them to make another run. Now that TJM has pulled out of the North American market, I never see them making more bumpers unfortunately.

The thickness varies. The main structural parts, mounting brackets, frame, winch plate, etc are 1/4" plate. The "impact prone" exterior skin areas are 3/16" and the less critical, stylistic parts are 1/8".

$700!?!?! I thought those things were like $400. I paid $175 for my Flowmaster exhaust, custom bent and welded SS pipe, installed, at a Midas. It lasted 6 years, and 120,000 miles, in Rochester salt winter, and I never even bothered to clean the exhaust, before the Flowmaster developed a hole. Not too shabby for a $175 exhaust job. Don't waste your money dude.

Haha...I guess we're on the same page then Dernt...LOL... Basically the same post at the same time...that's kind of creepy.

Do they still even make that? It would probably be cheaper to just have a muffler shop weld you up a custom piped setup with 2" piping, into a "performance" muffler. Either way, you're going to see very minimal gains, and it'll just get louder.

No Mike, we get it. I know you suffered with the VG for a while, so you know what the rest of us are dealing with! And now that you've got plenty of Go, you want MORE. Greedy bastard! It's OK though, I'm already looking into turbo setups for the Integra...oh jeez, this just got a WHOLE lot more interesting.

They also list a 3.2L V6 Gas.... Those look kind of cheap, to be honest.

1/2" Grade 8 bolts will do fine. The only reason my strut tower broke was I launched the truck out of a sink-hole on OBX at 30mph and slammed the front end down extremely hard. Insurance covered it, oddly enough! You think I'm going to wheel the Acura? LMAO!

DISCLAIMER: The below is a rough approximation. The figures calculated are in no way determined to be accurate. Please review the Notes at the bottom. Let's see here. Of course we're just estimating, but, the advertised curb weight of an average R50 is ~4300lbs. The weight distribution is 62/38 F/R. 62% of 4300lbs is 2666lbs. Assuming unequal distribution left/right*, on a 8% difference, that means that 54% of the weight is on the drivers front, and 46% of the frontal weight is bearing on the passengers front. Meaning that the drivers front strut is supporting 33.5% of the total vehicle weight, or approximately 1450lbs. Consider the diameter of the strut mount bolts, at 10mm (about 3/8"). There are three bolts supporting the strut mount to the vehicle, which means that each 10mm bolt is supporting up to 484lbs at any given moment. Now, the forces exerted on that bolt, are the weight supported multiplied by any acceleration acting on that bolt. Gravity, suspension harmonics, suspension movement, etc. The acceleration due to gravity is 32ft/sec^2 using US units (of course the calculations are easier using SI/Metric units, but Ft/Lbs/Sec are easier for most people to understand. Each bolt, under maximum strut extension is seeing over 3570PSI of force!! Let's also not forget what happens when the truck is compressing the struts, that force will go up exponentially - so much so, in fact, that my own truck broke off the entire strut tower from the inner fender skin! Not something you would want to trust a safety critical part to a washer! *Drivers weight, weight of fuel in tank, and other factors apply here to generate the uneven left/right weight distribution. NOTE: This is also assuming a STOCK bodied R50. Once you add accessories, such as a bull bar and winch, the weight distribution is even more front biased, and the forces exerted on those little 10mm bolts are even more exaggerated. ADDITIONAL NOTE: Also realize that to determine the exact forces exerted on the strut mounts would be very complex, and would have to take into account exact corner weights of the vehicle in question, sprung and unsprung weight, center of gravity, and it would depend on exactly what situation the vehicle is in at a particular point of interest. At rest, the forces exerted on the strut mount are the corner weight of the truck pushing down, and the force of the spring, and the strut pushing up. So you have compression forces acting on the mount from both sides. The calculations above are a VERY rough estimation based on approximated figures and should be taken only as such. These are not accurate figures, but are merely an approximate representation to give you an idea of what is going on in your suspension. This is why it is imperative that you use a high-quality strut mount, such as the OEM Nissan one, and not a cheap mount, like the KYB, which will fail after a short period of use.

You have a PM.

Yes, this site is heavily biased towards off-road recreation and performance, and that could make finding information relevant to street performance difficult, but it's first and foremost a Pathfinder site. And there's no reason not to help a fellow Pathfinder owner because of his or her intended use of his or her Pathfinder... Besides, better street performance translates into better towing stability and performance as well, something we can all appreciate! Let's try to keep this thread on-topic and keep the bashing OFF of the public forums, shall we?