slade420

I like it.. it could use a coat of black Tremclad

how about some stats...

Job openings are few and far between here, especially since Tembec closed the pulp mill. But in the next couple years i fully expect a new mine to open. theres lots of drilling and exploration goin on.

nice job man! On my old dakota floor i used computer case panels, on my old blue pathy, i used the tailgate from my dakota! now i need to fix the floor in my D21. what should i use? the old pathfinder hood? haha just kidding, or am i?

my "new" d 21 is auto, its not too bad, i dont mind it. But my pathy that is now a donor is a 5 speed and i loved wheeling with it. even in 4 hi i found the tranny to geared pretty low. and it was/is a 4 door. im starting to miss the ole' girl. sometimes i think about putting the pathy body on the hardbody frame.

if you dont have lsd you could weld up the rear,.,..

My vote is for winch!!!! if you only seen what ive pulled myself out of... a locker can only get you so far, so when your hung up on the frame you can give 'er a little tug and your back to wheeling, instead of diggin for an hour, or worse, have to walk home. which i had to do when i had my dakota and no winch... walked about 5km in the rain down the Trans-Canada highway before we got a ride. I also had a winch set-up like that. got a old class 3 hitch receiver, cut off the side parts. took out the signal lights and housings outta the bumper. cut the middle piece out of my bumper between the signal light holes about 6" x 4". drilled holes in my bumper brackets and hitch receiver, then used ready rod to bolt it to the bumper. then I got a class 3 hitch, without ball, flipped it upside-down, got my buddy to weld a steel plate big enough to mount my winch on. After that i put the hitch in the receiver, pushed it all the way in, to see how much i could cut off.(to make sure it did not hit the radiator or be have the winch mounted out too far causing it to bounce while going over a bumpy trail. oh ya, and i had a winch safety-pin with a key lock on it, in-case someone tries to make off with it.

obviously i know what a centrifugal supercharger is if you read the thread. I was the one who posted the idea of a centrifugal supercharger, pics and hp chart. And a centrifugal supercharger IS a belt driven turbo... call it what you will. and i know putting a remote turbo has it draw-backs, thats why i jokingly said put it the cab. Sometimes i feel like I am talking Chinese.. routing an air box into the cab is pretty common is modded mud trucks, put it in the glove box haha. Or as with a snorkel it can be routed to go about anywhere. Get creative... install a roof scoop connected intake like a rally car, cept have it facing backwards so flying mud and water will be less likely to go in. facing backward should create a cowl hood effect. Then there are pre-chargers for air filters to keep out particulates. Our vehicles, for the most part require custom made parts/ one-off fab work. I guess a lot people here are using them for daily drivers.

check out the Cummins 3.9 4tba turbo diesel inline 4 cylinder (a is for after-cooled). used in old bread trucks... fitting in under the hood might be challenging..

but how is it in the mud? haha. and the turbo thing, if ya think you can fit all those pipes under the hood, go for it... i just like the idea of the belt driven turbo... sometimes people already have their minds made up.

my D21 hardbody struggles a bit on start up, usually because the fuel lines need to build up pressure. its caused by the line connecting the 2 fuel rails, the clamps are lose or in the wrong spot.the clamps in the wrong spot is what caused my pathy gas take to leak when i turned the key to "on" . it pissed gas out from the top of the tank. luckily i was a easy fix. ripped up the carpet and opened the access hatch. (best idea ever!) Thats why it takes longer to prime itself. After i've had it running, its no problem to start it, as the lines are pressurized. Luckily the fuel line on the fuel rails is not pissin' out gas. On start-up there is the smell of raw fuel tho. none of the lines are wet, and there is nothing dripping underneath. which now leads me to think its not the line at all. but an injector stuck partially open squirting fuel into the intake manifold. which would explain why giving it a shot of the throttle chokes it out, if i do have to give it some gas. its little and not often between, and not much at all, just little tap. you kinda have to get a "feel" for it depending on rpm and if it is sluggish or gonna flood (too much fuel) or if it needs more fuel. its like warming up a 2-stroke dirtbike, or a 2-stroke snowmobile. best way i can describe it. so does anyone think stuck injectors can cause this. another thing that leads me to believe i have a sticky valve(s) is when im driving, from idle to 1500-2000 its responds fine, then pressing the pedal another half inch - 1 inch it struggles, or its lagging bad. then another half an inch of the throttle and they open up huge and i get pushed back in my seat as the engine clmbs hard, setting off the tranny shift points... i forget what this option is called. if its the injectors can they be cleaned and reused? ive noticed they are quite expensive.

vortech sc 336HP, nice power curve, i justnoticed how power spikes at 5000rpm 6000rpm and 6500rpm, 165 hp jump from 5000rpm to 6000rpm and 21hp jump from 6000 to 7000. vortech centrifugal supercharger starts making power at 2000rpm, greddy turbo starts @ 2500 on the350z. i think our engines red-line at a lot lower rpm

what about a single turbo-setup.?save some room. or what about a remote turbo setup heres some info from Squires Turbo Systems http://ststurbo.com/the_technology 'Benefits of STS Remote-Mounted Turbochargers' ** "Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, The turbo acts as a muffler and sounds like an aftermarket performance muffler. # Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently. # Turbo is exposed to ambient air rather than underhood air. Allows for better cooling of turbo components Lower under-hood temperature, Cooler oil to the turbo THIS PART MIGHT BE DECIDING FACTOR >>> No need for expensive headers, mufflers, or exhaust systems!!!!!!!!!.<<< For under the hood, i still prefer the centrifugal super charger set up. no stupid exhaust piping taking up precious room and extreme turbo temps, most have internal cooling, no need to drill a hole in your oil pan or engine . the temperature difference alone sways me. but thats just my opinion. here is a power curve map that compares a Stock 350z hp,Greddy Turbo 350z, Vortech SC centrifugal-supercharged 350z, and a Stillen Stage 2 SC (roots style) supercharger. Results Red: Vortech SC - 336HP/295TQ 2nd Green: Stillen Stage 2 SC - 313HP/285TQ 3rd Blue: Greddy Turbo 350z - 347HP/322TQ 1st Grey: 2003 Nissan 350Z - 232HP/223TQ Stock heres some cool example pictures from a Import Tuner article: Turbocharger vs Supercharger: Which Is Right For You? just gotta do something about the air filter. gotta mount it somewhere water tight. like in the cab haha. listen to that woooooosh!

cool. One thing tho, is this just a parts reference catalogue? you cant actually order stuff, right? that would be too easy. when i seen the '07 YD25DDTI listed there i almost pee'd. great site for references tho, the diagrams are awesome.

you need a hardbody grill. you got that backwards, the pathfinder headlight would fit in a hardbody, but the hardbody headlight is square on the inside corner and the pathy has a 45° at the inside corner.

try monroe

i think i paid about $50 a shock from summitracing.com

Ok, i found THE best one in my opinion, for our trucks. Vortech V-9 F-Trim Supercharger http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=17 Max Boost: 13.5 PSI "The V-9 Series is ideal for applications where space around the engine is a consideration, as with GM F-Body and Sport Compact vehicles. Designed for engines ranging in size from 1.2L to 6.0L, the V-9 features our AirAssist/Power Drain lubrication system, exclusive D-port volute for improved efficiency and a V-band volute clamp for easy under-hood packaging." Price: $2096.95

have you considered the self-contained centrifugal superchargers?? they make 8-9 psi boost and are belt driven, they are small, could go where the A/C pump is. here is some pics of a kit for the g35 from Vortec, for a good example. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=117

rancho's depending on model are some of the cheapest. try Bilstein... im sure others will have suggestions. I personally have Rancho RSX self adjusting shocks on the back, and like them a lot. they are pretty inexpensive.

Here is the list of parts needed. NA & TT differences and Conversion hints. Russell Floyd ZX Connection (Exclusively Z32) Used parts, service, performance, sales. zxparts@mindspring.com 770-562-8668 I have gathered all this info over the past couple years. I have tons of TT and NA parts to look at and a Nissan Computer system at my disposal, so you can bet that this info is accurate. ENGINE 1. The blocks are the same. They both have oil squirters that direct oil towards the underside of the piston, although they point at slightly different angles, they are still interchangeable. They have all of the same oil passages. Two passages are plugged with a bolt on the NA block (one on each outside face that feed the turbos on a TT). The TT has two oil passages plugged inside where the oil filter bracket mounts, the NA has two small check valves in this location. They are plugged in the TT so that the oil will go through the lines to the oil cooler, which returns back to the oil pan. 2. The crankshaft is the same. 3. Connecting rods ARE the same!! (Same Nissan part #) 4. Piston rings, and Crankshaft (main) bearings are the same. The rod bearings are the same size but the TT ones are a different alloy. 5. Of course the pistons are different because of lower compression ratio in the TT.65. Oil pumps are different. They mount the same but I assume the TT one is higher capacity. 6. Oil filter bracket on a TT is different it has an outlet that accommodates the hose going to the oil cooler. 7. Cams, Lifters, and valve springs ARE the same (90-93)(same Nissan Part #) The Auto TT has different intake cams (lower lift) but the intake cams on the 5 speed TT, NA, and auto NA are the same. All the exhaust cams are the same. The 94-95 cams were different than the 90-93 but just like the earlier ones they are all the same except for the intake cams on the auto TT. The 96 cams were all the same. 8. The valves are all the same size. But the exhaust valves on a TT are made from a stronger alloy. 9. Nissan claims the bare heads are different but I no longer believe it. I used to think the thickness was different but after some measurements I believe they are the same and have been using them interchangeably (just making sure the exhaust valves are the stronger TT ones) 10. The oil pan is different because the TT one has 2 tubes protruding on the sides where the oil return hoses for the turbos mount and another one for the hose returning from the oil cooler. 11.The turbo engine obviously has a few different accessories and systems to accommodate the turbos. The exhaust manifolds on the TT are much shorter than the NA ones, which go all the way down and tie into the exhaust section including the catalytic converters. The turbos are oil lubricated and water cooled. So there are oil and water feed and return lines. 12. The throttle bodies are the same size but the passenger side one is different on a TT simply because one of the water lines attached to the bottom of it has a junction in it to feed water to one turbo. The upper and lower intake manifolds are the same TT and NA although the 94 up ones are different from the earlier ones. ELECTRICAL 1. Nissan claimed the TT coil packs were different a couple years ago and charged a lot more for them. I checked them and found that they were the same and now Nissan lists them as the same. 2. Of course the ECU is different. 3. The Main engine harness is different also, but a NA harness will work in an TT, you just wont have the connections for the boost control solenoids which you don’t need anyway if you have a boost controller. BTW, you can change the Engine harness without removing the dash, but you must remove the glove box and maybe the AC Evaporator unit under the dash. 4. If converting NA --> TT, I would leave the interior harness and gauge cluster alone. They will work with the TT setup. Get a stand alone boost gauge because the stock one sux. You probably wouldn't add the Hicas system or stock electronic adjustable suspension to a NA so you will not need the TT interior harness. 5. MAF, PTU, TPS, IAA, AIV, EGR, O2 sensors, Detonation sensor, Coolant temperature sensor are all the same. 6. The electrical AC Condenser fan is different on a TT. The motor has three wires (2 speed) going to it as opposed to two (one speed) on the NA. 7. The starters are all the same OTHER DRIVETRAIN 1. If converting most people would keep the NA rear differential, because a lot of TT owners switch to it anyway. It has a lower ratio (4.08 compared to 3.67) that will decrease your top speed but enhance take off. 2. As long as you keep the NA rear diff, the NA driveshaft will work. The TT driveshaft will not work with an NA diff. 3. The NA and TT have the same 5 speed transmission model #, same splines on input and output shafts, etc. and the housings are the same except for one small difference. The spot where the starter mounts on the bellhousing on the TT is machined a little differently so that the starter will properly engage the slightly larger diameter flywheel and so that the flywheel teeth won’t scrape the inside of the bellhousing. You can use an NA 5 speed in a TT but you just have to shim the starter out a little with some flat washers and sometimes grind a little out of the inside of the bellhousing so the TT flywheel will fit inside. If trying to use a TT trans in an NA you would either have to grind down where the starter mounts so that it could engage the smaller NA flywheel or just use the TT flywheel, which could be used with TT or NA clutch. The automatic transmission is different for a TT, but the NA auto would still fit in place behind the TT engine. Although, they are different lengths and you would have to use the corresponding driveshaft. Both autos are geared virtually the same but the TT one is built for heavier duty. 4. The speed sensor in the transmission is also different, which has a different size gear for NA and TT because of the different ratios in the diff. But if you are using a NA diff you need a NA speed sensor. 5. For the five speed the TT clutch has a larger contact face, a stronger pressure plate and a slightly larger diameter flywheel. You can use a TT flywheel in an NA by shimming out the starter but can’t use a NA flywheel in a TT without cutting down the spot where the starter mounts to the TT transmission. The TT’s also included a clutch booster assembly because of the stronger pressure plate. The clutch pedal and master cylinder were different because of a vacuum assisted clutch booster inside the firewall. The booster included two plastic tanks for vacuum storage also, one under the drivers fender and one under the clutch master cylinder and a network of hoses connecting them all. You don’t have to add this setup when doing a conversion the clutch pedal will just be stiff but its not unbearable. OTHER STUFF 1. The Radiator and AC Condenser are MUCH different. They are much narrower on a TT so the intercooler piping can go around each side. The front lower core support is also different (but can be modified to work with a little cutting and welding) because the TT radiator and condenser mount farther down into it because they are taller to make up for the difference in width. There are some differences in the AC lines also. 1. You can use the NA power steering pump and system with the TT as most people know. Many TT owners buy the NA system and eliminate the HICAS. The mounting brackets for the PWS pump are different for the TT and NA. 2. The TT alternator is higher output but they are interchangeable. 3. The AC Compressors are the same. 4. The TT has all of that intake/turbo/intercooler piping, intercoolers, and recirculation valves. This can be the most expensive and difficult thing to put on a NA. It isn’t easy to find used and is one of the main reasons I recommend buying an entire wrecked TT for parts if you are trying to convert from an NA. 5.The exhaust is all different for the TT. Although if you get the J-spec downpipes (which are stock in Japan in the place of our precats) an NA exhaust will bolt right up and work fine but I recommend at least getting the performance cat-back which with the J-spec down pipes and NA cats will be a nice free-flowing setup. 6. The fuel system is also different. The fuel pump and fuel pump control units are different corresponding to the higher output TT injectors. The fuel rail, filter, pressure regulator, and dampener are all the same. to anyone that does try this, check out a program called Nistune

the best boost in limited room. Centrifugal SuperChargers. They are simply put a belt driven turbo with a pulley instead of an exhaust side. less heat, contained cooling, saves space. i have a complete list of parts for a vg30e turbo swap called "NA & TT differences and Conversion hints. Russell Floyd ZX Connection (Exclusively Z32)" if you want it.

They are nice trucks, i got one to replace my pathfinder. A '93 V6 extended cab BLACK. Its got some body cancer than needs to be addressed and a sticky injector(i think). needs new body mounts too. But i got it for $200.00 so its all good. strictly a bush vehicle...

Hey i got up the energy and pulled the 10 Disc changer out. (because there was interest in it, and i dont know anyone else with one) and hit kind of a snag. So to explain, it was mounted in the back to a metal frame attached to the spare tire carrier. After removing the cd changer and the its mounting plate i had started to remove the wiring. It is 3 different connections and a little grounding wire. To connect to the disc selector in the front console it travels through the body with the wiring harness. I had to pull up most of the interior plastics, carpet and whatnot to try to remove it. As i got to the front passenger door i realized that it passes right past the front passengers door instead of down the middle as i had hoped. Then there it was, the hole that killed the pathy's ECU. When water came up and got to the wiring harness it melted had the cd changer wires as well. I could not figure out what those were for when it happened. So does anyone know if those are replaceable or if someone wanted them and thought they could try and fix them, let me know. any other questions/comments welcome. Oh ya, its a SONY 10 disc changer, i didnt know this before hand. here's the changer part:

How do you know if its working? when the little red light flashes... When i stored mine for the winter it sat for probably 6 months.