Kingman

Try a new ignition switch. Could be busted up inside.

Put a 130A Quest alternator in it.

What can't you figure out exactly? They are a direct swap so long as you have the correct spline count. Of course they look different - they're a completely different design. Black goo is probably original Nissan grease and the red stuff is someone else's. Or one hub failed and burned up making black goo and charred plastic. There's a lot of info on hub swappage if you

Falls flat on it's face around 75MPH in 4th, but mine would do 0-60 with a good launch (not like this video) in around 8-9 seconds. It's surprisingly easy to boil the tires... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZreCfSFG084 Who the hell is going to buy a new GTR engine and put it in a...Pathfinder...?

I looked in to retrofitting a rack and pinion from a late 90s Chevy 1500 chassis, almost everything looked like it would be fairly easy to do. Fab up a few mounts and adapt the tie rods and steering shaft. If I can remember where it's at I'll grab it and maybe test fit it since my engine is out.

Why mess with it? It's not like it's a problematic setup.

Very nice. Doesn't get any better than that.

You can see the very outer edges are raised up off the table but overall it's pretty flat. Even with a broken manifold stud or two neither one leaked.

Hopefully perfect... H223Bs are tough as hell, same with the 30A transmissions. 350HP shouldn't bother anything.

Set them a flat surface like a counter or table. You'll easily see if they're warped or not.

Check the manifolds for flatness and if they aren't, use a large belt sander or something similar and make them flat. Warping manifolds is a huge cause of leaks and the stock studs breaking.

So you never removed the flex plate spacer from the block before you put the pilot bushing in? Have you driven it yet?

They mount the same as any other UCA however the frame needs to be drilled if you want to utilize the 4 extra support bolts per UCA. I *think* Silverton put new bushings in the Ranchos I sold him. Maybe try PMing him to see if he has anything to say.

They can be a real bitch. 2-3 hours of banging, prying, slide hammering, dry icing, torching, hydraulics, and then cutting it finally came out of my engine. Hopefully you have better luck as they should just pop out with a slide hammer or bushing puller if you can find one small enough. Mine was just rusted on solid + being press-fit from the factory. Make sure you don't forget the pilot bushing when doing your swap. You'll hate yourself for having to pull the engine or transmission out again over a ~$2 part. I sure as hell did. Without it the front of the input shaft has no support so nothing is aligned well making gears grind like mad.

Hitachi and Jecs

My '87 had the original starter at 259K, still worked juss fine. The one in my '88 failed pre-177K miles and was replaced with a NAPA unit.

As in a recirculating catch can sort of thing?

'Bout time.

That's happened to me twice now and it's annoying. I think a good permanent fix is to wire up a power distribution block on the fender or something so the wires don't break off the battery terminal from vibration. Dumb design from the factory.

The fuel lines are reinforced high-pressure hose and those normally don't fail. I replaced a transmission in an '88 Pathfinder that sat for 3 years and it started right up with fresh gas. It even passed emissions the next day! The tank was dropped and cleaned thoroughly, the lines were cleaned out, new filter, but we left the injectors be. The brakes were a little rusty yes, but a few miles of driving and braking gets rid of that. It's been a year now since the transmission replacement and not a single thing has failed on the rig. (amazing since I worked on it) 2 years isn't that long.

Actually the newer they are the crappier. They build 'em cheap to cut costs, fskc the guy that has to replace it. Doesn't matter to them. Old C4s, C6s, L3Ns, Torqueflight 727s, 4L60Es/80Es, etc last forever. Subaru used the same RE4 as the Pathfinders in the SVX and they too have the same issue with overheating and failing. Mazda MPVs as well. Poor quality parts coming apart and clogging the coolers. It's not a Pathfinder-only problem. It's an RE4 problem but the cooler sure doesn't help anything. When MY1PATH and I were looking for an X tranny for his Pathfinder, the part numbers ended up being the same between the two versions (Pathfinder and X) because they superseded the part number. It's almost like unless you know exactly what it came out of there's no way to tell. Side by side the two looked identical.

Took the block and crank to the machine shop, waiting to hear back on the damage...

Wonder what outside influence makes the belt life vary, I replaced the timing belt on a '95 Villager at 142K and it was in pretty decent shape. It was the original and 33K miles overdue, yet yours snapped at 118K

I'm sorry to hear they put nylon guides in the newer engines. Sad to see them go from bomb-proof to will need maintenance. Why in the hell would they do that? They'll put down 220-250HP if done right from a 2.0L or 2.2L - the parts I have for this motor will put it around there. It'll cost a hell of a lot more to push that through an NA VG, look up Butter on z31performance and see the multi-thousands he's put into his NA to get 222HP. At the moment that's one of the highest-powered NAs on there. From a 3.0L engine! The variable venturi SU carbs you can put on an L-series make low-end torque astronomically amazing for a small engine, much more responsive, and it easily out-torques the VGs I've driven any day. They are made for low-end punch. Can you accelerate from 900RPM (without bogging, pinging, or struggling) in 4th gear at 20-25MPH while hauling 2,400LBS of concrete in your Pathfinder? I sure never could with mine. The timing belt on my Z looked like it might be original at 120K miles. There wasn't much left of it and I'm surprised it didn't snap or skip at all. Helluva lucky chance there.

Nissan uses rubber guides that don't fail often. My L20 is well over 400K and the timing chain is fairly solid as well as the guides and there are @!*% loads of them running around same as mine. Funny, you can run an L-series to 8K+ and not harm it the slightest bit. Also a built 4-cylinder NA L-series will put down more power than a VG, and last longer. It's an OHV engine. Volkswagens do use nylon guides, which is why they have serious issues. Belts are cheaper. This is why most companies went to them, not because they're any better.