Kingman

Advise... redo the connections and heat shrink them. Those open cups on the end of the connectors hold water and corrode the crap out of the wiring.

The timing marks on the crank pulley? They line up with the pointer every time No. 1 comes to TDC whether its on compression or exhaust. Make sure you are aligning the furthest LEFT timing mark with the pointer.

TDC on the compression stroke. If the rotor is pointing in the opposite direction, its on TDC of the exhaust stroke. When the piston is coming up on a compression stroke, you'll hear air hissing out of the plug hole as both valves will be closed.

170-180psi. As long as it didn't lock up or make any clanking/thwacking noises when it cranked over you shouldn't have kissed any valves.

Glad everyone is alright. That doesn't look bad enough to do any structural damage.

Always set the engine to TDC and mark the belt before removing it! Beings as it sounded ugly cranking over its obviously out of time and hopefully did not bend any valves. Pull it all back apart and reset the timing from scratch, making your own marks on the belt using the tooth count if the original marks are no longer there.

I would check the CHTS and the sub harness. When it doesn't start, pull a spark plug and see if its fouled. If it is its probably the sensor giving the ECU a false reading of being much colder than it actually is and flooding the engine. You might also check for spark, ignition coils can fail when they get hot and start working again when they cool off.

Unplug power from the injectors and see if they stop spraying, that will let you know if its electrical (ECU grounding and holding the injectors open or a wiring short). If they keep spraying you'll need to pull the throttle body and remove the injectors. You could try and have them cleaned, tap on the body a bit, or stick them in some lacquer thinner/ acetone to eat away the gunk. Even better if you have a jewelry cleaner.

On a reliability standpoint, bar none is the Pathfinder compared to a WJ. I like Jeeps too, but a WJ especially a '99-'01 Overland or Limited, is rolling disaster. Just about everything that can break on them does. Should have been named the Jeep Murphys really. The only real upside to them is that they have tons of power especially the HO 4.7Ls. For a rig that can take a beating and keep on ticking, its hard to beat a Pathfinder and for $8K you can get yourself one hell of a nice one. Find a nice, well maintained one and you could easily see it into the 2-300k mile range without too much issue so long ad you keep up on the timing belt maintenance.

Bilsteins from 4x4parts.com. $67 per shock and they last about forever. Also make sure your torsion bars are not sagging and weak.

I know, just wanted to let him know in case he didn't already.

Separate the pulley from the harmonic balancer via the six 10mm bolts and rotate it until it lines up. Furthest left timing mark is TDC.

Store brand = rebottled Valvoline, Napa Gold = Wix filter.

The stabilizer bar links won't cause your issue. Bad compression rod bushings, work center link, ball joints, TREs, UCA and LCA bushings will though.

Hmmm. Check religiously for leaks and continual coolant usage... pull the dip stick on the transmission, if its an automatic, and see if there's any coolant mixed with the ATF fluid.

X3 it doesn't sound like anything serious as of yet. A good flush will hopefully do the trick. If you can, remove the heater core hoses at the firewall and give that a good flush with a hose. Bushnut, the point of this forum is to gain knowledge and share it so owners can save money and learn forst hand about their vehicles instead of getting hosed at a shop, especially if its an easy fix. If a flush doesn't change anything, feel the heater core hoses when the engine is hot and idling. They should be very hot, if they are your cooling system is functioning properly and the issue may be in the blend doors behind the dash. I have no idea how the system in the newer Nissans work, but I do know its becoming a rather large issue with vehicles nowadays since they're electronically controlled for the most part. Also, does it do it all the time or just at idle? If at idle, rev it up and hold it - see if the heat comes back.

Water* Durr.

Mainly don't suck air into the air box, and don't let the floorboards flood as the ECU sits under the passenger seat.

To test motor mount: put it in drive, stand on the brake pedal, and hit the gas. If its broken the engine will jump up.

X2

^ Reminds me of my '87 too. Spinning almost 5k for hours doing 75-80mph on a 250k mile engine made me nervous but she never skipped a beat!

I did Z31 MPFI from TBI on my '88. It'll be a VG33E when I get home next in a few months. If you pull the engine from a wrecking yard the price will most likely be the same. Companies that pull them usually charge more per liter and also more based on how new the engine is or mileage.

They do fantastic. NA 9:1 VGs do even better though.

I'm stoked to get my Villager engine, 5hp is well worth the pain of a teardown should anything ever happen in my book.

I've learned to only use a Nissan thermostat. The aftermarket ones seem to fail at an alarming rate on any Nissan I've come in contact with. $20 and they'll last another 25 years.