Kingman

There is a great how-to write up in the garage section along with links to download the factory service manual.

See how hot the coil gets and if its producing any spark, and if it does check the color. Should be bright blue and not a dim yellow. Also check the ECM coolant temp sensor in the upper coolant neck, when they go bad they tell the ECU its much colder than it really is therefore flooding the engine when its hot.

Either '84-'89 300ZX turbo studs or '96+ VG33 studs. Both are 10mm. Without going wild, there's not much to do with the engines to make them any stronger that won't cost an arm and a leg. The cranks are stout, rods forged, main girdle set up, the blocks are a green casting, and the clearances are nice and tight. Now that being said, a major problem with the VG30s is the cross drilled oiling system where the engine starves of oil at 6,500+ RPM. Good thing the stock limiter is set below that. One thing you can do/have done is open up the oil pump and make sure its still 100% and have the passages ported out and smoothed. This gives you much better flow. When its being rebuilt the machines MUST grade the bearings to each crank journal. Mainly, use a good oil and filter. Cheap garbage doesn't save you any money in the long run. An oil filter relocation kit is a worthwhile investment for added oil capacity, more filtering media, and you don't spill oil all over the starter when you change it. DO NOT USE FEL-PRO HEAD GASKETS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check the relay. Its in the relay box under the hood. I'd also pull the filter again and see if its clogged already, if it is you'll need to drop the tank and clean it out. Another common issue is the solder joints on top of the tank where the chassis wiring goes on to the tank tend to corrode or break.

He wouldn't have cared what you said, and that's final!

That's stock 300zx EFI. Its just got a Pathfinder block. The ECU is in the passenger side kick panel, check it for codes.

The running lights come on with the headlights. Blinkers are on a separate circuit. Flashing fast means there's no resistance in the circuit, so likely if the bulb is good the plug socket or wiring to it is bad.

Please post a picture of the engine. Its killing me!

Are you sure just the block isn't from a Pathfinder? Same engine... beings as the check engine light is on, its most likely because its a California car and the EGT sensor isn't there. I can't believe anyone would put TBI in an MPFI car. Stupidity... The problem can be anything if its really, best thing to do is run the ECU codes. Most likely though, the CHTS.

Damn right in my home town! What part of town? Never heard of them...

Stroker motor or bored out? Many have tried a bored-to 3.6L and cracked the blocks.

See what it does after drying out. If it somehow still operates normally, buy another just in case and leave it in the cab. Most likely later on it'll start developing corrosion and short out.

CV axle.

Love the no doors on my step dad's CJ5.... when the weather is nice. Yes, it sucks major ass on the highway in the winter time. Easy to jump in and out especially when there's no room to open a door!

You cannot swap DOHC heads on to a SOHC block. That's why no one has done it.

I remember having to do a whole lot of finaggling to get the cover off. It was a pain in the ass for sure but it did come out.

And the problem was...?

Yeah that was years ago. I have a brick in the back for an ebrake if I need it. One of these days I'll replace everything. And that's a lot of everything... $$$

Mine worked great after a simple cable adjustment like most ebrakes need after years of yarding on them. Then I ripped the cables and inner drums apart on a barbed wire fence.

Mid '93.

Tensioner is the same. I meant crank gear, not pulley.

100% of yours.

x100 on gravity bleeding, its worth a shot. And its more like 98% of Pathfinders have working ebrakes.

I don't believe you need to swap cams, just the cam gears and crank pulley. Its also 105k miles on the interval.

Not the first time that's happened. Hood job getting her going again. Enjoy those manifold studs... I've always loctited the tensioner stud in the block.