Kingman

Wix.

There are some models of vehicles that keep the pump running for a few seconds after the engine is shut off. I don't think ours is one of them, since mine has never kept running.

Lol, the only real reason why I posted that is because in both of my Pathfinders the fan sometimes started buzzing and rattling and a good kick under the glove box shut it up. No, I didn't kick it while driving...well besides that one time...

The passenger arm rest on my old truck was covered in black duct tape. It help up for over a year.

Have you tried kicking the underside of your dash?

Exactly. The most I've ever spilled on my starter was a little glob which could be wiped up easily, even the first time I changed the oil on one of these things.

Check your fluid for any abnormal smells or discoloration. Even if it's good, I'd flush it anyways. There could be a particle of debris stuck in one of the ball valves inside the valve body. After you've drained the fluid remove the pan and inspect the filter screen for debris and clean it out. I gotta get to work so that's all I have time to say.

Yup. My old truck did that and it was obnoxious. Thankfully my new one isn't rusted out so it stays quiet.

Do a straight axle swap and you won't have that problem anymore.

I went in with my friend who didn't put his cat back on when he went through emissions. The guy noticed and told him to leave right then and there and come back when the problem is fixed. He kind of turned a blind eye to that one. But it makes me wonder, if a truck can almost pass without a cat, then why have one on? .02-.00 (.00 is passing) is a very small failure margin... If a truck does pass then that shows it's not even needed as it passes the test for the clean air act.

Yes, the cat is required and must be in place in order to pass emissions. There's a huge fine if you get caught without one. The power gain from a cat pipe depends on the vehicle's motor, cat condition, piping, flow patterns, etc. Same rigs benefit a good amount from a pipe, and others none whatsoever. Like I said, it depends on what's what...Now the exhaust note on the other hand, becomes much more aggressive and louder. By the way, Red is referring to me in his previous post about the person who things that they give huge improvements and blah blah blah.

It's reletaviely easy to replace so long as it isn't over tightened. Just take off the passenger wheel and bam it's right there.

There's an adapter that you can get that mates a Chevy transmission to the factory Nissan transfer case. Other than that, you'll need a body lift to make room under the hood for the engine. Then obviously you'll need all the complete wiring for it, and fab up some cross members for the Chevy transmission. It's going to be a custom job, and there are a few people not on here who've done it before with just carbureted 350s, less wiring that way. I've been thinking of swapping in a 318 eventually...

If you're 100% sure it's not a belt then I'd check for seized pulleys, particularly the AC compressor.

If the new alternator still doesn't charge until I rev it, that's fine. I however will not keep an alternator that throws that much voltage for very long if I have a choice.

Mine does the same, sometimes it'll feel strong and have much more power then it goes away. My old truck did that as well.

I tested the alternator in class today, absolutely no charge until 3200 when it clicks on. When it does, it spikes to 16.1V then settles down to 14.5V then creeps to 15V then 15.5V and levels off. My shop teacher's eyes about popped out of his head when it clicked on and spiked like that.

You're not the only one my man, these trucks are slow as hell. Stout, but slow.

They are an internally regulated alternator, and yes I did re-set the settings on the deck after connecting the battery. The amp is probably blown from the voltage spike since it thumped so damn hard and won't make any noise now, so if it is bad then I suppose NAPA should be replacing that as well for providing a faulty alternator. I checked the fuses and they are still good, just no noise from my sub. So in comparing the 2 pulleys, the outside diameter of the V pulley is slightly larger than the PV pulley, however taking into consideration the pitch of the V and where the belt contacts there really isn't any difference to speak of between the two. I just don't see how that minor of a size difference can be the difference of 900 RPM and 3200 RPM. I don't see any reason for an alternator not to turn on until that high of an RPM.

Drove up to the store to get gas, and I noticed I now have more power. Not much more, but very noticeable. I wonder how long until my transistor fries. My amp is going nuts as well. The sub barely beats at all now, but the green power indicator light is on. Hope I didn't blow it... Tuesday is my next day off. I plan to exchange my alternator for a new one, hopefully it's the culprit. Leaving the gas station I hit the gas and made a few people jump and glare at me since it was under the cover still.

You'll need to disconnect the torsion bars, and I believe there are 2 top bolts on the bell housing that you can get to through an access plate in the cabin. Also make sure you have a good transmission jack, these transmissions are extremely heavy for their size.

So it could be designed to turn on at a certain RPM? You said you had your pulley machined, what kind of place did you take it to and what exactly do you mean by that?

I hope not! I tried calling NAPA but they close super early on Sundays.

Also, my subwoofer is going thump every time I turn the key to on. It never used to do that before. I'd rather not fry my amp...

I swapped batteries with my dad's truck, no difference at all. I was hoping it was that simple. I see what you mean about the pulley. But wouldn't the charge be relative to the RPMs with an incorrect size pulley? Shouldn't the charge increase as you rev and then drop back down when you idle down, not suddenly start charging at 3500 and then charge consistently at any RPM? Or is the different pulley tricking the regulator? It also charges higher than 14V when it starts charing. It charges at the next line up, 16V. Seems like a regulator issue? Tomorrow I'll put a washer in between the 2 halves of the pulley and see what happens. Also, if I do need a smaller pulley, I can't seem to find one. I went to 2 auto parts stores looking for pulleys and they said they didn't have any.