Kingman

I was being sarcastic, I know it's how it's supposed to be. I'd rather have the real problem of the doors NOT unlocking when you close the doors without pulling up the handle like my old '87. Although it can be somewhat nice if you forget your keys in the ignition.

I was just thinking of the resistance in the dimmer switch. I was tired...

That jerking is the same thing that happens when you let out the clutch on a manual to soon or without enough gas but the engine does't die. It's a hilarious sight but hard on the drive train. I wonder if it's your torque converter going out and not fully locking or "catching" somehow at low RPMs.

My guess is yes it will as there is a separate transmission control unit for the automatics. This has been covered somewhere before...

Vice grips man. Both my Pathfinders have had bad shocks, the ones on this one now are only bad in the cold cold but warm they're fine. Vice grips work well..

The Chevy work truck at Les Schwab has that problem, it's interesting...

If it's possible to switch the ground and power wire then I'd try that. Kind of like an electric fan, it switches directions depending on the way it's hooked up...

No word yet, other than I'm liking the camo truck more and more the longer I drive it. Tim had some family things come up, so it might be a while...

Too bad you guys don't have my problem where if you close a door they all unlock.

I'm sorry, but...

I'd replace your thermostat.

Those vertical mounts on the guard are for fog lights.

European cams will wake the engine up a whole hell of a lot. Also look into getting the heads machined, clean out the intake manifold, remove the little lips from the exhaust ports so it's flush with the manifolds/headers, remap the ECU, bore it over, etc. Oh wait, you wanted it done in 3 days...

The Tahoes and Cavaliers I've driven are so light there's almost no resistance to the wheel at all. You can turn them with your pinky with no effort at all. I'm not driving the Pathfinder anymore. I borrowed my Uncle's '92 Toyota truck. It's rattle canned army green, 33s, and a roll bar in the bed with lights on it. It's a badass little truck. It just sits at his house so I can drive it for as long as I need. I'll know more when I tear in to it on Tuesday.

Tim was also talking about his thoughts on swapping in a rack and pinion from a Chevy pickup truck. Apparently it will fit exactly where the factory Nissan steering components do with little modification. Much lighter steering feel (drive a Chevy car or truck) and much more reliable.

I know, but I haven't had time. No point in doing it now until I really figure out what's wrong with it. Hopefully Tuesday I can head over to Tim's house and we can tear in to it. He said that in over 30 years as a mechanic he's NEVER seen a failed Nissan steering pump or box on a Nissan of any sort. He did say there's a little bit of wear on them with 200K+ but that's about it. First thing to do is disconnect the rest of the steering system from the box and see if it's still binding up. If not then it's something else, if so then it's the box, pump, or shaft somewhere. Damn Nissans...

3" of play at the wheel driving down the highway seems a little excessive to me. When I was looking at it last night everything looked like it was functioning as it should...

I think blew my steering box tonight making a U-turn. I was turning at full lock and smacked a pot hole hard on my driver's front tire and heard a pop and now I have no power steering and it feels like its binding up when I turn the wheel. I've driven my old Pathfinder without power steering because the belt was off and this feels much tougher to turn than that. It's been feeling funny for a while now, the steering wheel wobble, excessive play in the wheel when driving straight down the road, and it randomly bound up when turning the wheel when the truck wasn't in motion. It would bind up suddenly and then let go and return to normal. It was pretty rare though. I had my buddy with me so we pulled over and he watched everything while I used all my force to crank the wheel. No leaks, fluid is full, and everything appears 100%. I called MY1PATH and he said he thinks I collapsed a roller bearing inside the box where the steering shaft meets the rollers to turn the pitman arm. So I'm going to go and get a JY unit and see if it fixes it and if it does I'm going to take apart my original box and see what's up. Does anyone have any suggestions or had this happen before and the problem was something different? Thanks...

My SE Off Road has everything! Besides a light bar...oh wait, I'm in the wrong place, mine's an '88.

"Nine, you're mine."

Congrats! Yeah we underwent a little "renovation" (which I have great distaste for myself.)

18,000lb cooler is the minimum to run.

One wheel is usually turned more than the other, like B said. The inside turning wheel needs to follow a tighter circle than the outside wheel.

4000 RPM is right in the pwoer band of these engines, therefore it's when it's at it's most efficient operation and where it's "happiest". Remember, the old '86.5-'87 3 speed automatics held 4-4.5k consistantly at highway speeds.

It's a stock tire size. Your speedo may be off depending on if it was optioned with the 235s from the factory or not.