TrailChaser

I actually just eyeballed it and just when at it with a hole saw. Then I cut out the inside of the fender to allow the pipe to be level and also to give me something to weld to. I think I got lucky on the placement. If I would have cut the hole a little closer to the hood I would have been screwed.

Ya, I'm gonna feel really dumb if this actually works and I start saving a good amount of $$$ on gas. :tonguefinger: This doesn't replace gasoline, it appears from what I've read so far that it adds orthohydrogen & parahydrogen in with the normal 89oct gas for combustion. A friend just informed me of this thread.(Looks like the Jeepers beat us to another cool mod. I know and wheel with a few of the guys in that thread.) http://www.lonestarjeepclub.org/board/showthread.php?t=21482 PM me your email address and I'll send you all the info I have on the subject. This is a video of a car manufacturer in Japan unveiling their new car that runs exclusively on water using this concept. http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/pop...14&src=news

I've looked into browns gas, and it seems like it was a reality until the cylinders started to explode when the gas level got too low... It would be nice to be able to cut steel with only one cylinders of gas tho. On a more serious note: I have decided to make myself the guinea pig on this project. I've already bought the plans to build it from the site listed above.(Denny Klein's site) I would really like to have a couple of volunteers to do this project on their own. So now,,, I need some people who SERIOUSLY wants to test this out with me(but on your own) please PM me for details. I will decide who gets to help test this based on how long you've been on this forum.(for credibility reasons) The volunteers will not pay me anything, but will have to piece together the "kit" themselves. They say you can get all the needed parts for under $100.(Lets make that part of the test.) Please do not bother volunteering unless you wholeheartedly want to test this out to review on this forum. Making a thread of your progress would be great, but really the main thing I'm looking for is some honest people to give me an honest review for our community to possible save some $$$. I've got my hands full of projects right now, so it may be a little while before I can actually get started on this, but I'd love to get some testers started on this project ASAP. I made a new thread about this, so post up your thoughts on it over there if you will. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19002

I have decided to make myself the guinea pig on this project. I've already bought the plans to build it for $50 from the site listed above.(Denny Klein's site) I would really like to have a couple/few volunteers to do this project on their own. I need some people who SERIOUSLY want to test this out with me(but on your own) please PM me for details. Who gets to help test this will be based on how long you've been on this forum.(for credibility reasons) The volunteers will not pay anything, but will have to piece together the "kit" themselves. They say you can get all the needed parts for under $100.(Lets make that part of the test.) Please do not bother volunteering unless you wholeheartedly want to test this out to review on this forum. Making a thread of your progress would be great, or you can use this one. The main thing I'm looking for is some honest people to give me an honest review for our community to possible save some $$$ on fuel. I've got my hands full of projects right now, so it may be a little while before I can actually get started on this, but I'd love to get some testers started on this project ASAP so please volunteer if you can get started on this project soon. "They" say you do not have to be mechanically inclined to make this work, but I'm sure that would be a plus. Actually there's more electronics knowledge needed than mechanical knowledge from what I've read in the instructions so far. (This test is NOT limited to the members in the USA, and it's suppose to work just as well on diesel engines)

So...... I just have to ask. Has anyone checked into building a "Joe Cell" to power your auto? I would like to experiment with it a little. Another type of this power can be seen on this video.(That story came from my local News Station.) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUmlLqkUHd0 The guy in the video(Denny Klein) now has a website and sells plans to make one for yourself for $50... http://www.runyourcarwithwater.com/?hop=wicks2006 Here's three more that have got the top spots in this websites reviews. http://www.water-for-fuel-scam.com/index7a.htm Here's another good video on the subject. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhSP8b1OBAg

That's my parts pathy. My own personal junkyard.

Thanks everyone, I haven't noticed any decrease or increase in power at any speed. (With these tires it's already a slug on the road. But I still manage to drive about 80mph to work every morning on the tollway.) That long piece is a replacement for the first one I tried bending. I found out the hard way that PVC doesn't bend very well with the torch I was using. It's real easy to over stretch the back side of the bend making it really thin if you're lucky enough to not have it tear. There's probably better "poly" pipes that would work better. If you wanted to make it one whole piece I'd recommend looking into hose instead of pipe. You can insert a spring and the hose will maintain it's shape even with a tight bend.

The bumper is looking great Barry. You make it look sooo easy. =)

I could definitely do that. We have lots of plastic bar stock of all different types. I just like the look and ruggedness of AL.

The cap is made from a solid bar of aluminum I think it was 5" when I started milling on it. I can't remember what the OD is since I made it almost two months ago. (It's been sitting on top of my fridge all this time.) I drilled out the center with a 2" drill bit on the lathe, then bored it out to perfectly fit the piece of PVC pipe I was planning to use. Then I put in eight 1" holes drilled at a 2deg angle toward the center. The sidewalls at the bottom came out to be paper thin. At this point I put it back in the lathe and used a different boring bar with a side cutter on it to cut the sidewalls of the drilled holes out down at the bottom. I also drilled and tapped a hole for a set screw. I had to ditch the PVC pipe holding this up since it's still a little heavy. So I turned a pipe down to the right OD and welded it in place. I still need to tweak it a little to get it perfectly level with the truck. After the adjustments I plan on welding on good bracing so it should be quite tough. If I did my math right I should have twice the amount of airflow needed thru the 1" holes since there's 8 of them and the intake plumbing has a 2" ID.(Four holes could be plugged and I shouldn't notice a difference.) I didn't plan for it to be as tall as it is, but now that it's on there I kinda like it. Besides I can always cut it down a little later, but adding more length would be a pain. More pics. :tonguefinger: No bumper comments... It's a work in progress and you're not even suppose to be seeing it yet.

I finally got around to installing my new snorkel yesterday. Here are some pics. 8) Plumbing Mock-up Fender complete w/hole Coming together What could that be? It's a chunk of Aluminum Finished I'll get some better "finished" pics in the daylight.

When I put those tires on I drove it to work w/out trimming the rear fenders, and I trimmed the front just enough to be able to turn. That pic was taken a few minutes after we finished trimming the rear fenders right behind the tires. We trimmed about two inches total in the rear at the bottom, and I trimmed the front fender all the way back and hammered down the pinch seam with a BFH.

When you're in some offroading situations it would be a great help even if you don't have a front locker. Like when you're walking a wall with the drivers side and the passenger side is in a rut. Cranking as hard as I can on the steering wheel would have no effect, and the only thing you can do to turn is 10-15 little back-ups were the slight release in pressure will allow the wheel to turn about a quarter of a degree. The main possible drawback I see is the increased pressure on the tierods. I've often wondered how much it would take to break the ball joint.

Good find... I knew I saw that somewhere. *edited to say* I just re-watched it and something strikes me as strange... If this is a British Show, why are they measuring speed in MPH instead of KPH?

Talk about reviving an old thread. I remember reading this thread back in the day and thinking how bad I wanted 33's, but don't want a body lift. Now I'm running 34's(285/75/16) with no bodylift and I have very little rubbing after removing a bit of sheetmetal. I hammered down the seam that you cut off. I'm planning to cut more off the front of the fender when I make the winch bumper.

Instead of swapping engines why not just upgrade the vg30 with a supercharger, new cams, ect. These engines are capable or putting out some serious power if you're willing to spend a little $$$.

I wouldn't knock those welds. They look strong, and it looks like there were welded with plenty of amps. Let's point out the important stuff... Check out the angled braces over the mounting legs. That's good stuff right there. I've seen lots of sliders without bracing end up bending till they hit the body after a few trail runs. Looks like that page has been there for a while. I wonder why noone ever heard of this or said anything before? Says the page was last modified on May 30, 2007 12:58:44 PM

The warranty leads me to believe it wouldn't last long for offroaders. (copy/pasted from their website) What is your warranty? We only offer our warranty on products that are: installed by a certified installer, used on private property with smooth terrain (grass, pavement, firm crushed stone, etc...), are installed on a maximum of three cars total over its usage period, if no tickets have been issued to the plate in which the car is registered, and our warranty is only offered on products that have been registered. Our warranty only covers manufacturers defect, and not against cracks or leaks due to extreme conditions (weather, excessive noise/vibration over 145 dB constant pressure).

I really hate to hear stories like this. I'd have to find a good lawyer,,, because I'd probably break one of the serv. managers thumbs before suggesting that they have my rig fixed by a professional on their dime. Don't forget to sweep everything off his desk on your way out. But on a serious note... I'd suggest the mechanic who screwed up pay my half.(and not touch my rig again) Also, I'd do a nice write-up about what happened and include all the info you can get on the dealership.(names, addy, phone #, email, ect.) Post it on every Nissan related forum you can find. Then get all the links together and email them to the dealership with a nice note about getting the word out so noone else has to deal with the bad service. You'd really be surprised how people react when you start proving that you're personally hurting their business. Make sure you don't say anything you wouldn't want a judge to read.

Nice pics... I had a good time out there in the mud.

Put up a warning sign a mile or so away to warn people as your personal protest. I'm sure it wouldn't last long.

You must not have seen the episode where they beat the photo radar by going like 175mph(IIRC) in a badass sports car. The did several passes increasing the speed each time until they drove past the camera so fast it never knew they where there.(meaning it didn't even take a pic) I'm not 100% sure if that was mythbusters or some similar show, but I'm sure someone else saw it and will jump in with a or something.

They're generally assumed to be stronger than stock auto hubs. When you lock them you "Know They're Locked." You can use a form of 2wheel low.(Just don't lock the hubs, but put the rig in 4wd low.) In my personal experience, I was sick of the auto hubs unlocking while going down a hill then when I start to climb the next hill they would lock back with a loud BANG. This occurs due to the hubs being torque activated. Or when I'd get a little stuck at the beach and engage 4wd to get out it would do the same thing...BANG

What's PRD's Pre Rolled Doobies???

The coolant doesn't slow it down. It's oil dissolved in water. Lubs and keeps things cool. Those machines are just as fast as they are accurate.