TrailChaser

Here's a pic of the carrier.

Next pic...

Sorry about messing up the voting part, I don't know what happened... Anyway, if you could just write it in a reply that would be great. Here's a few pics so you can what I was talking about.

I've been wanting to get this project started for some time now. the main problem I'm having is deciding what metal to use, and what design I want to go with. I weld for a living so the actual building of the bumper is the easy part. I can get just about any kind of metal from work for free, or at cost if I have to cut into new stock. I'm building this back bumper first. Then I plan on building a front bumper/brushgaurd to match or at least be a similar style. If you where a welder or had access to free or really cheap metal and welding supplies what would you build for your Pathfinder? So far I haven't made very many things. I get what's left over after I eat on my hour lunch break to do whatever I want in the shop. That's about 40mins a day, 5 days a week. I've made a "bigger than you can buy" rear hiddin hitch carrier that would normally sell for $60 to $150, and I got bored one day and made a "4x4" symbol to cover the hole in that hitch while nothing is attached.

I got to it. Mine didn't have a switch. It had the flathead screw dial. I got a 55.

Cool. I was thinking that was the amp. Is there a way to check the codes without taking the seat out of the truck?

This may be a dumb question, and I searched the forum... But,,, Where is the ECU? I looked under the hood for something with led lights and a plastic cap over a switch. I can't find that thing anywhere. I have a 95 and I think the oxy sensor is crapping out because the fuel mileage seems to be going down. That things gonna cost about $100 at the parts place, and they say it recommended you replace it after 100,000K and I now have 106,???... Any help would be great. David

I'm in the process of building a back bumper that will double as an air tank. I figure that two 2 7/8 pipes running across the back and slightly wrapping around the the sides will be plenty of air space to air the tires back up after a trail ride. I only have a little $20 12v air pump from wal-mart. it's not too bad, it has a built in PSI gauge with automatic cut-off when it reaches the desired pressure. I plan on upgrading the pump when I find something better that's affordable. The main problem I'm having is deciding wether or not I should take the stock bumper off, or just build the new one to fit over it. I've already decided to make it bolt on to the existing hidden hitch. I'll let that project blow over for a little bit then I plan on building a front bumper/brushgaurd to match the back bumper.

Here's a couple I found on ebay. 1st one 2nd one

OH, I didn't know that. I thought it was called positive traction because both wheels turn the same no matter what the traction differance between the tires... Again, more of my dad and his friends shade tree mechanic slang. If it does have a locker does that mean I should be able to control whether it's locked or not? Can the rear axles"or splines" on a Pathfinder be welded to make it act like it's got a locker?

It seems I was wrong... I was driving around with my wife today and got the ideal to leave one tire on the pavement and one tire on loose gravel while power braking to check for positive traction. I mean, if the tire on the pavemant turns exactly as much as the tire on the loose gravel it would have to be positivetraction right? Well, I tried it out. I had my wife stand behind the Pathfinder while I did a slow burnout/power brake. Both tires moved exactly the same. "nice squealing sound from the slow moving tire on the pavement" So does this little test seem conclusive to anyone else? I will find out for sure when I change the gear oil. I bought 5 quarts of 80w-90 with the lsd additive. I hope it doesn't hurt anything since it's probably a posy. Thanks, David

It was $1.70 at wlamart supercenter for reg. in Jonesboro, AR yesterday.

I set-up my sig pic last night and I hosted it from the cardomain site. Now it's got a lil CarDomain.com in the bottom corner... That's kinda cool I think... It seems wierd that they somehow knew I was using it from there site and added their logo.

That was kinda like the question I was gonna ask... Anyway, can someone who has done the body lift tell my what all is effected? Like if you do a 3in body lift will that make my shifter "AutoTrans" 3in shorter? My dad got his 4x4 dodge lifted "body" because he says suspension lift was too costly, now the ball in the middle of his bed "for towing gooseneck trailers" is below the bed altogether and it looks like he's got a big hole right in the middle of his bed. He's not getting it fixed since he never pulls a gooseneck. That ball was from the original owner.

Maybe you could find a wrecked one in a local parts yard that has low miles. I'm in the process of locating a junkyard or pick-a-part place that has an identical 95 Pathfinder for myself, just to be able to replace whatever might brake. Good luck, David

That's interesting,,, I had no idea that headlights where different in different countries... Seems like there would be one standard way to have them and that would be it. So, what exactly is different about the e-code lights? Other than they seem to point more toward the road than in oncomming traffics eyes. Can't you just adjust your headlights so they point down without changing them?

Thanks for the info... That'll give me something constructive to do this weekend.

Can someone give me a short do's and don't to changing the diff oil? :help: I really apperciate all the help so far. Thanks, David

When you say movement are you talking about the axle or wheels moving in some way they're not suppose to? Everything seems solid back there. What's lsd?

I'm not really sure how to describe the noise, it's like a grinding popping sound, but I don't feel it in the pedels and if I goose it while turning it still responds fine. I was thinking I may need to "open up" the rear-end to see if it's a broken weld, or some other problem... The main reason I don't want to take the rear-end "pumpkin" apart is that I don't know what I'm doing since I've never worked on a rear-end. I'm sure I'd be able to tell real quick if it's a broken weld. Does anyone have experiance with positive traction by welding something together in the "pumpkin"? PS: pumpkin is what my dad and his friends called the gear housing in the rear-end where the drive-shaft hooks up... Bear with me here, I'm really new to mechanic work so I'm not sure what the actual names of parts are yet.

I only hear the noise when I'm in two wheel drive, but I've never driven it in four wheel drive on pavement so it might.

I bought my 95 Nissan Pathfinder a few months ago, and for the last month I've been hearing some strange noises whenever I turn on concrete/pavement. I've been thinking maybe the previous owner welded the rear-end together to make it positive traction, and now the weld broke??? I know for sure that it's not positive traction right now, but it's like really real tight limited slip. When I peal out on a dirt road it always hooks up positive traction, but when I turn on pavement the outside tire doesn't squeal. Any help would be great. I don't really want to open it up to have a look but I may have to. I'm not too familiar with mechanic work but I'm learning, so don't get too technical with me. Thanks, David