TrailChaser

That's quite impressive... Water a couple of inches up the windows with the hood all the way under... I had no idea that you could get that deep and still get out without sucking water in with the air intake. I got mine about 3/4 the way up the wheels almost to the door level when My wife made me turn around.(We where driving on flooded out dirt/gravel roads after some heavy rains.) So how much water came into the cab? Mine was wrecked by a previous owner so niether of my driver side doors close real tight anymore.

I was reading about how the JGC springs will lift the rear about 3 inches on a 2 door pathy with no rear tire carrier, and only about 1 1/2 inches with the tire and extra doors... Well I have all the extra weight on mine... So my question is: Would it be possible to add an extension to the JGC springs to get a full 3 inches of lift? By extension I mean just either getting 3 of those springs and cutting one in half and welding them together so you have 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 JGC springs on each side, or by just welding a 5-6 inch piece of a similar diameter pipe onto either the top or bottom of the springs. I weld on springs at work sometimes, and they don't hold a weld very well. By that I mean the tack welds can break from the spring material. But I've never seen a good bead break. Mainly it's just the tack welds that we put on before the main weld, but those tack welds are usually enough to hold ANYTHING together. I'm sure I could make it work. It's just the matter of will a spring that long be able to compress to fit into the space provided. How hard was it for some of you who have installed the 16.5 inch JGC springs to get the spring mounted? Was there plenty of room, or was it nearly impossible? I have fork lifts and hoists and all types of heavy duty equipment that I'm free to use at the shop, but sometimes some things just won't fit. I'd really like to get a full 2.5-3 inches of lift outa the rear, but I'm not wanting to bite off more than I can chew. Thanks for any help, David

I bet that would rock the lake... I was kinda thinking about the benifits of messing with my friends by opening it when they least expect it. I was driving a 84 chevy caviler with a four banger off a ferry in galvaston, tx late one night at high tide. When I started down the ramp, which was very steep, I caught my catalytic converter on the top and ripped it loose and out from under the car. I was only going about 5mph but I still ripped it out. It sounded like the world was comming to an end... Scared the crap out of me and my cousion. Then we had to drive that loud thing about 75miles home that night through about 15 small towns. But we where lucky enough to make it home with no tickets or warnings. Sorry bout the rambling, I'm home from work becouse I'm sick today and this medicine has me stoned.

I don't think that's a dumb question... I thought about that but figured that would increase backpressure, or just less hp/mpg... The instructions on that say to connect it right after the CC, but I could probly get more power and less worrying about it getting cold air back into the engine after I kill the truck by making the split B4 the CC and running a second pipe all the way to the rear so it appears I have duel exhaust. One pipe has the Cat and the muffler, and one is a strait pipe that will probably echo for a mile behind my pathy but not be as loud inside the cab. You got my brain workin... Thanks

I just found this Ehaust Cut-out on ebay and was wondering if anyone has any experiance with them. It seems like a good ideal, and when I checked the JC Whitney website they say and I quote. "You have two exhaust systems in one: (1) CLOSED QUIET EXHAUST for city and restricted areas; (2) WIDE-OPEN EXHAUST system for the open road and country driving when you want more speed, more power and gas economy. Made of cast iron. Requires welding. Mounts behind catalytic converter where applicable. With 5-ft. dash-control cable." So now I'm thinking real hard about weather to get one or not. If I do, at least I've got the welding part covered, and I live in the middle of nowhere Arkansas where noise wouldn't be a problem as long as I can still hear the CD player. I'm just not sure if the HP/MPG will increase enough to justify the cost and the work. I'm already on a gas saving freakout, I bought some magnetic fuel saver off ebay and I'm still waiting on it to arrive. $7.00 for the magnets isn't too bad, I spend more than that a week on junkfood. I wonder if that cut-off would create a carbon monoxide problem in the truck with the AC running since it would be exhausting from the middle of the truck instead of the very back...

Hey look that ho's a virgin... There's no paint missing or anything... sssh :eek: :gossip:

I wasn't familiar with the added option so I did a google seach... The picture at the bottom of the page is a TJM Rear Bumper... The SALE price on that thing is $845.05 Could you imagine paying that much for a rear bumper... That one's for a Toy Land Cruiser... I bet the guy with the 600hp "Bimmer" would buy one for his H2 in a heartbeat... sly bumper

Very cool Thanks

Good question... But also how is the basket mounted??? I'm going to build a roof rack/carrier, but my pathy doesn't have stock racks on already. I was wondering if you had to drill holes in your roof, and if so how did you seal'em up so no moisture gets in to damage the ceiling upholstery?

I don't have a diesel so I'm not sure where your's is, but you can usually just follow the hose from the radiator and where it connects to your engine is porbably going to have a couple of bolts holding that piece down, under there is the thermostat. P.S. This is not based on expeiance with my Pathfinder. I'm only going off what I know about most chevy engines I've messed with.(very limited mechanic skills) I haven't had any problems with the cooling system yet."knock on wood" So If that's totally wrong for a pathy please don't shoot me or anything.

If you have a small torch like this one. You can just heat it up to get it to break loose. As long as the torch can get up to 1500/2000deg F. it should work fine. If you have already rounded the nut off just try some vise grips or a small monkey wrench (pipe wrench). I weld on farm equipment for a living and we have a hell of a time getting rusty/seized nuts off old stuff we have to repair. Good luck, David

That is a very good point MatterHorn. I had not considered that at all. I was only thinking about looks. I just figured whatever I used was going to be plenty strong enough, but didn't consider the surface area difference for when I get hung up. I was originally thinking of using 1"x2" tubing for rocker panel protection, and just making it flush with the body, or making some kind of step out of it. I like the 2" pipe all round ideal, but I'd have to go with bigger 2 3/8" pipe because thats what we have an abundunce of at work. I can use all that stuff I want. The only drawback to using pipes instead of square tubing is that I plan on using the back bumper as an air tank, and I think the tubing would probably have a few more square inches of room inside. If I do use pipes I'm going to stack 2 or 3 and connect them together by using really small pieces of pipe cut to fit in between them.

I think the search method finally paid off for me on this one... I was just about to start a new post asking about a hissing noise around the rear passinger tire... I was fixing a flat the other day in the 90deg. heat with the wife and kids in the truck enjoying the nice cool A/C when I noticed a strange hissing noise... The tire was already flat so I kinda figured that wasn't the problem/sound. When I had my wife kill the truck the hissing instantly stopped. SOOO, This IS the fuel pump right? Nothing to be worried about...?

Here's a pic of the carrier.

Next pic...

Sorry about messing up the voting part, I don't know what happened... Anyway, if you could just write it in a reply that would be great. Here's a few pics so you can what I was talking about.

I've been wanting to get this project started for some time now. the main problem I'm having is deciding what metal to use, and what design I want to go with. I weld for a living so the actual building of the bumper is the easy part. I can get just about any kind of metal from work for free, or at cost if I have to cut into new stock. I'm building this back bumper first. Then I plan on building a front bumper/brushgaurd to match or at least be a similar style. If you where a welder or had access to free or really cheap metal and welding supplies what would you build for your Pathfinder? So far I haven't made very many things. I get what's left over after I eat on my hour lunch break to do whatever I want in the shop. That's about 40mins a day, 5 days a week. I've made a "bigger than you can buy" rear hiddin hitch carrier that would normally sell for $60 to $150, and I got bored one day and made a "4x4" symbol to cover the hole in that hitch while nothing is attached.

I got to it. Mine didn't have a switch. It had the flathead screw dial. I got a 55.

Cool. I was thinking that was the amp. Is there a way to check the codes without taking the seat out of the truck?

This may be a dumb question, and I searched the forum... But,,, Where is the ECU? I looked under the hood for something with led lights and a plastic cap over a switch. I can't find that thing anywhere. I have a 95 and I think the oxy sensor is crapping out because the fuel mileage seems to be going down. That things gonna cost about $100 at the parts place, and they say it recommended you replace it after 100,000K and I now have 106,???... Any help would be great. David

I'm in the process of building a back bumper that will double as an air tank. I figure that two 2 7/8 pipes running across the back and slightly wrapping around the the sides will be plenty of air space to air the tires back up after a trail ride. I only have a little $20 12v air pump from wal-mart. it's not too bad, it has a built in PSI gauge with automatic cut-off when it reaches the desired pressure. I plan on upgrading the pump when I find something better that's affordable. The main problem I'm having is deciding wether or not I should take the stock bumper off, or just build the new one to fit over it. I've already decided to make it bolt on to the existing hidden hitch. I'll let that project blow over for a little bit then I plan on building a front bumper/brushgaurd to match the back bumper.

Here's a couple I found on ebay. 1st one 2nd one

OH, I didn't know that. I thought it was called positive traction because both wheels turn the same no matter what the traction differance between the tires... Again, more of my dad and his friends shade tree mechanic slang. If it does have a locker does that mean I should be able to control whether it's locked or not? Can the rear axles"or splines" on a Pathfinder be welded to make it act like it's got a locker?

It seems I was wrong... I was driving around with my wife today and got the ideal to leave one tire on the pavement and one tire on loose gravel while power braking to check for positive traction. I mean, if the tire on the pavemant turns exactly as much as the tire on the loose gravel it would have to be positivetraction right? Well, I tried it out. I had my wife stand behind the Pathfinder while I did a slow burnout/power brake. Both tires moved exactly the same. "nice squealing sound from the slow moving tire on the pavement" So does this little test seem conclusive to anyone else? I will find out for sure when I change the gear oil. I bought 5 quarts of 80w-90 with the lsd additive. I hope it doesn't hurt anything since it's probably a posy. Thanks, David

It was $1.70 at wlamart supercenter for reg. in Jonesboro, AR yesterday.