TrailChaser

Well I still can't tell any difference in the mpg... I do have a hp/torque increase, but I give that credit to the Restore I added about the same time as these magnets... Looks like I got some really cool magnets to play with after all...

Well it's been two weeks since I added the Restore in with the oil change... I'd say if you're not already relying on Lucas or some other product,,, get some Restore... I'm now a believer... I went from what I considered desent proformance to pretty d@mn good proformance. I wish I woulda checked my 0-60 times before and after, but I didn't.... One thing I can say for sure is. No matter how hard I stomped down on the gas pedal the pathy would just take off without squealin the tires, and most of the time it wouldn't peel out even on hard packed dirt roads. Now I can stomp it and get a nice bark outa the back. I have to get on the interstate between where i live and where I work, and I can definatly tell a difference on the on ramps going from slow to 70-75 as fast as possible. :cool2:

This may sound like a stupid question. How the heck does a new set of headers give 15-20 xtra hp, 20-30'lbs of torque, and 10% mpg inprovement??? Wouldn't you get more or the same effect by adding an exhaust cut-out beefore the CC??? Here's a link to the exhaust cut-out thread

D@mn, I bet that thing flies... Fiero's weigh less than some of the bigger bikes. At least he's got a good engine in it now. That's about like the 350's going into a 280zx... :o

Or just move to Arkansas... No inspections AT ALL!!! No inspection sticker either... There's always a "but" in a situation like this... The cops here can pull you over for absolutely no reason and say it's a roadside inspection.... I haven't heard of anybody getting hit with one that I know, but it could happen when you least expect it.

I wish I could get in touch with the previous owner about this rear diff situation and find out what all he's had done. But, after reading 95pathDN's instructions on installing the Lock-Right a minute ago it hit me that that's more than likely what it is... What got me was everyone referring to the "noise in the rear-end" as a RATCHETING noise... That's my noise... I don't know why I didn't think of it as a ratcheting noise before... It also does the slight squeal on the outside tire if I goose it right as I turn. I know that the earlier replies even said something about auto-lockers, but I just assumed all lockers where controlled devises. Like air lockers or the cable ones... I did my little test on a different day with my cousin and a good friend and had the same reaction from the rear-end. Both tires spin exactly the same with one on pavement and one on loose gravel. The traction was sooo good on the pavement that it actually dug in a little bit and exposed the wet looking tar stuff underneath, and that was in 70-75 deg. F. weather so I know the road wasn't just hot. A guy I work with has a 95 Nissan HB pick-up 4x4. The other day he went with me(in his truck,me in my pathy) to a off the map fishing hole that's got more than it's fair share of mud holes, and I noticed while following him that his rear tires would switch up a lot. The drivers side tire would spin like crazy slinging mud everwhere, then it would stop and the other would start. He barely ever had both spnning together. He almost got stuck on the way out running in 4hi. I used 4hi on the way in but didn't feel like I needed it so on the way out I left it in 2wd for most the way.(couple of the holes where a little deep and slippery for 2wd) He flat out didn't believe I got thru most of that mud in 2wd. So we did a little playing around in the pathy and he was floored by the difference in the traction mine has in just 2wd... He said it reminded him of a front wheel drive Cadillac that a friend of his had in high school. He said it was a V8 front wheel drive older model Cadillac, like 70 something model with mudders on the two front wheels... I'd like to have seen that car. He said that Caddy would walk thru some deep mud and barely lose speed... :o Thanks a million to 95PathDN for the write-up on the Lock Right, and thanks to everyone on this forum for all the help and knowledge you've all givin...On all subjects... PS: Has anyone every seen heard of a front wheel drive V8 Caddy??? He's not one to tell a lie, but I've just never seen or hear of one... Plus I was born in 77 so it may be a before my time/when I was just a kid kinda car...

Don't take this advice... Have you thought about a bribe? :contract: Those guys usually make little to hardly any money working at those gas stations and auto garages that do inspections... Talk to the guy a little and see what kind of guy he is... Look for the young guys they always need beer money. Also, go during lunch hour. The bosses are usually out packin food in thier mouths and they leave the rookie there for the hour.... $20 will still get you a long way with the right girl, er um, I I I mean gas station attendent... Remember not to take any of this garbage seriously!!! :o sly sssh -thnkboutit-

I say weld it and forget it. If you need to remove it someday use a hacksaw.

First thing I'd check would be the brakes... Most of'em make a squealing noise to let you know it's time to change'em. Some squeal like that when they're still good.

With gas prices the way they are I'm still hoping it works a little. -thnkboutit-

I'd say be very skeptical of these things. I'm just testing it out. (If it don't work I got some cool magnets to play around with.) The more I read up on it the more stuff I find saying it doesn't work... My wife and I keep pretty strict routines during the week. We know exactly how much gas we should use in a givin period of time/miles. We started really watching it when the gas prices hit about $1.80 per gallon. I feel confident that if it doesn't work I'll be able to tell. The only thing I don't like is that I just did the oil change and added some Restore. That stuff may have a influence on the MPG... Also I just put 30x9.5x15 Dayton Timberline A/T's on the back. I'll get the front ones in a couple of weeks

I read that somewhere on here, but I think the recall is for the 95 model???

Good question... I found out about this by hunting for fuel saving devices on ebay. One of the fuel savers that caught my eye was the magnetic one. I didn't see any point in paying $25-$50 on one from ebay and figured it was just strong magnets. So I did so research to figure out how/if and why it works. I came up with some pretty convincing reading material on the subject. That's how I found out all you need is a strong neomagnet with the south pole side against the fuel line. The more powerful the magnet the better it's suppost to work. Here's an pic of how it works. One website I found on the subject put it this way... You can easily burn a log(wooden log), but if you break that same log into a thousand pieces it'll burn a lot hotter and faster. Suppost to be the same typa thing I guess. Your fuelhas those clusters of hydrocarbon and the outside is the only parts that burn leaving the unburned portions to go out as either carbon deposites or pollution outa the tail pipe. I'll let you know if I think it works in a week or so.

I attached two of the magnets to the line that comes out of the filter. I just used black tape to attach the first one south pole side touching the fuel line, then I attached the second one on the opposite side of the line south side touching the line so they are repelling each other thru the fuel line... It was kinda hard to get the second one to touch the line while I taped it because the repelling force between the magnets is soo strong. I hadn't gotten a reply by the time I attached them, but figured I had the right one. Just in case, I attached one magnet to the other line... What is that other line? It looks like it's connecting to the back fuel rack. If it's just a fuel return like on diesels I'm going to take the magnet off.

Here's the ebay page I got them from. The lady selling them seems cool. Here's the pic from ebay...

I just got some of those Neodymium NdFeB Magnets from ebay today in the mail. I got 6 and they are stupid strong I have never seen or thought I'd see magnets this strong. I'll put it this way... My wife almost couldn't get them out of the mail box at the post office, no chit... They're soo strong they come with little pieces of foam between them to keep them a 1/16 apart, and you still have to use a lot of muscle power to seperate them. I bought them to attach to my fuel line after researching the subject pretty good. I paid about $6 for the magnets, or $1 apiece. Now all I need to do is attach the south pole side facing the fuel line. I plan on using about 3 of them in a row because the stuff I read on the subject says the more magnets/stronger the magnets the better it will work. Now for a dumb question... In the pic attached is that my fuel line coming out of the fuel filter, and what's the line beside it that looks the same exept it's not comming out of that tin can looking thing?

I bought a can of this stuff from AutoZone yesterday and plan on adding it after I change my oil later today... Does anyone have anything pos/neg to say about this stuff??? It only cost $7.55 and it makes claims that are somewhat unbelievable, but for the price I fugure it's worth it to give'em a shot. When I got to the counter to pay, I asked the guy "What's the story on this stuff, any good?" he said that they sell ALOT of that stuff. He also said that mechanics us it as a little trick on some of the older cars they work on because it'll make the car run better as long as it's got high miles... I'm giving it a shot and I'll let everyone know how well it works... I attached the AD from Four Wheeler mag.

Best way I have found to check the fan clutch is. Get the engine up to about normal running temp. Kill the engine and go see how hard it is to turn the fan by hand... If it acts like it want to spin easily it's probably in need of a replacement. If all else fails check the old one while the engine is cold and while hot. Then install the new one and see what the resistance differance is between to two. If it's not that bad and you bought it from a reputable parts place you can simply return it. If anyone knows an exact way to check it, it would probably work alot better. In my case I had an A/C problem where my A/C wasn't getting very cold at all while sitting still, or while idling for extended periods of time. When I went to get it checked out the first thing the guy went for was the fan. He said that if the fan doesn't/can't pull air thru the radiator the A/C won't get cold, but at highway speeds the air is forced thru so there's not a problem. That didn't end up being my problem.(Even tho the guy wanted to sell me a $45 clutch. I ended up buying a $5 can of Sub-Zero that's a coolant,lube,UV leak detector, and it came with it's own attachment for the Low side of the A/C. Stuck that can on, let the chit inside go into my A/C while the engine was running and got about 10 to 15 degrees colder out of the vents in about 20mins. Now I don't ever have a problem with the A/C exept for it getting too cold, but that's an easy slide to the right on the temp control. Sorry,I got off the subject a little and was rambling. That weekend wake-n-bake can be a biatch...

I got FOUR WHEELER Mag a couple of weeks ago.(Aug. issue) Someone asked a question that got an interesting answer. I scanned the magizine and attached the pic. :type: The size is a little big, but I did my best to cut down the file size.

I'm glad you posted that video... I'll be sure not to let the front end hop at all if I can help it... Thanks for the heads-up, David

I read about that recall on one of the threads on here, and so far all the info I've gotten has been valid. I just wish I woulda read about it a couple of months earlier, then I'd be able to tell you for sure... Anybody know how to turn back a few miles... The Ferris Bueller reverse method definitely won't work... My pathy registers speed in reverse same as in forward. sssh

You better hurry and get those exhaust bolt replaced while it's still free. If you haven't already... I bought mine when it had 97,000 and didn't find out about the recall till I was on about 104,000... Now i'm up to 107,??? and in desperate need of an oil change.

That's cool that you got to read the note they left you. Feelin any of the + karma yet?

I'm not sure if this is the same kinda noise, but my speedometer jumps around when I run between 30-35mph. I have no idea why it does this, but it seems to work great other than that. When it does it's little jumping around routine, it makes a wierd kind of buzzing noise... This particular problem may have already been addressed somewhere on here. If so can someone link me to it? I did a search a while back and didn't find anything. The problem hasn't bothered me enough to say/write anything till now, since this seems kinda relative.

I wish I still worked at my last job. We had a drafting dept.,with one. But now I sadly have no access. Thanks for the offer tho.