TrailChaser

Here are the before and after pics... Before...

Everything looks fine and it doesn't have wierd tire ware or anything, but I do know it was wrecked by a previous owner, cause the doors won't close right...

Is this thing suppose to be bent like that??? I hadn't noticed the difference till I was checking my work on damaged reality and saw the one in the pic that was strait.

I want to get 32x11.50x15. I still have my stock 95 wheels and I'm pretty sure they're 15x6... I know it's a no no to put tires that wide on this rim unless you do alot of rock crawling (which I don't do, unless you consider curbs in the city rocks) I plan on getting 15x8 wheels when I come across a good deal on the ones I want. My main question is: will those 32x11.50's fit w/o rubbing on a stock 95 pathy. Or should I just go with the 31x10.50's??? Also does anyone know what the difference in gas mileage would be between the different sizes?

I had a mystery problem about a week ago. It ended up being my coil. I didn't figure that out till I had already bought a dist cap, rotor, ignition module, and finaly the coil. Mine wouldn't start at all tho.

I don't know how I missed that... Sorry bout that..

I didn't see anywhere that you checked the ECU for codes? Check that and report back... If you don't know where/what the ECU is check the garage section for the list of codes and how to check'em.

I just wanted to put this up here for everyone who might have this problem in the future. Here's the tread on nissan4wheelers.com about my pathy's problems... For those of you who don't like clicking links here's a short and quick version::: I washed the engine (while running) Unpluged the MAF sensor to knock excess dirt from the K/N Forgot to plug the MAF back in b4 cranking Cranked the pathy, ran about 15 seconds (ran crappy) then died Retried cranking only to have it crank then die agian Thought to myself "I forgot to plug in that darn MAF sensor" Plugged it in and still no deal on cranking. Checked the ECU codes and got a 12 and 21 Reset the codes and only got the 21 ignition signal code I then went and checked for spark Had sprk from the coil to the dist cap, with no spark from dist cap to plug wires Replaced (in order) the: rotor $7, Dist cap $19, Ignition module $20, and coil $10 Got the last 2 items from a parts yard off a 91 pathy. I love the price difference from auto parts store. Ended up that after 3 days of trying to figure it out my cousin who is a mechanic noticed that it had a yellow/orange spark from the coil. He said it was too weak so I replaced the coil and it started right off. We eliminated the coil right away because we where actually getting spark to the cap. You'd really have to read the whole thread to get an idea of the trouble and frustration I went thru for those 3 days. I got it started just in time to go to work for my first day on a new job.

One thing you might want to keep in mind about defrosting your windows... Make sure your A/C is turned on by the little switch... The only difference is that the A/C being on gives you dehumidified air... But, I guess if it's in the teens there's probably not gonna be a whole lotta moisture in the air anyway... This is mainly helpful for when you windows get steamy...

I had a similar problem with my pathy about a month ago. My blinkers and flashers stopped working all together, but ever once in a while the bright lights wouldn't work. No fuses where blown and everything appered ok, the blinkers just wouldn't work. I bought a little relay blinking box that plugs in right by the fuses. That didn't help so I took it back and got my money back and assumed it had to be the blinker switch. I called the Nissan dealer and told them the problem and they qouted me a price on the blinker switch itself and told my it would be nearly impossible to fix by myself without experience. $200 or so bucks. The part was gonna take a week to get there and I'd just drive around with no blinker till then. Anyway,,, I was driving somewhere IN THE RAIN... and I always use the blinks out of habit. I looked down and they where working. and they've been working good since then. The dealer still has the part ready to go if they stop working agian. But as long as it's not broke I'm not going to get it fixed.

Don't use JB turd on anything... That crap is worthless... Use duct tape before that stuff... But really,,, I'd say find a nut that fits it and then get your power drill and drill that hole out big enough so the nut will go thru tightly... Then run down to your local muffler shop and get one of those guys to tack weld that nut on in the inside like it goes... Bring a 6'er of beer for the lucky guy you get to do the work... Don't worry about getting that nut that fell back. I'd say just run down to the hardware store and find a new one. It shouldn't take the guy welding more that 3-5 tacks to completely seal it... If you want to make it real easy on the welder guy I'd say buy an extra long bolt, like 3-6 inches that fits the nut you buy. That will give the welder a good "handle" so he can weld it up with one hand and hold the nut in place with the other. Key here is to make his job easy as prossible so the guy will actually do it... Hit it with a wire brush and paint it when it's done so you don't get a rust problem... Second idea,,, Get a really strong magnet and use it to grab that nut from the inside. Now work it all the way back up to that hole and it should already be flat side toward the hole so then all you have to do is be very patient and keep working at it till you get it treaded back on, but then you'd probably need some kinda back-up on the nut on the nut or it'll never get tight.

I think you can get more speed with on of those magnets... You just have to be very careful and use it like racecar drivers use drafting... Let it pull you close to the car in front of you,,, then change lanes real fast to avoid rear-ending them. and slingshot around and to the next car. ps: If people who skake are skaters, and people who play the piano are pianist, why do you suppose they don't call racecar drivers racist?

Well I still can't tell any difference in the mpg... I do have a hp/torque increase, but I give that credit to the Restore I added about the same time as these magnets... Looks like I got some really cool magnets to play with after all...

Well it's been two weeks since I added the Restore in with the oil change... I'd say if you're not already relying on Lucas or some other product,,, get some Restore... I'm now a believer... I went from what I considered desent proformance to pretty d@mn good proformance. I wish I woulda checked my 0-60 times before and after, but I didn't.... One thing I can say for sure is. No matter how hard I stomped down on the gas pedal the pathy would just take off without squealin the tires, and most of the time it wouldn't peel out even on hard packed dirt roads. Now I can stomp it and get a nice bark outa the back. I have to get on the interstate between where i live and where I work, and I can definatly tell a difference on the on ramps going from slow to 70-75 as fast as possible. :cool2:

This may sound like a stupid question. How the heck does a new set of headers give 15-20 xtra hp, 20-30'lbs of torque, and 10% mpg inprovement??? Wouldn't you get more or the same effect by adding an exhaust cut-out beefore the CC??? Here's a link to the exhaust cut-out thread

D@mn, I bet that thing flies... Fiero's weigh less than some of the bigger bikes. At least he's got a good engine in it now. That's about like the 350's going into a 280zx... :o

Or just move to Arkansas... No inspections AT ALL!!! No inspection sticker either... There's always a "but" in a situation like this... The cops here can pull you over for absolutely no reason and say it's a roadside inspection.... I haven't heard of anybody getting hit with one that I know, but it could happen when you least expect it.

I wish I could get in touch with the previous owner about this rear diff situation and find out what all he's had done. But, after reading 95pathDN's instructions on installing the Lock-Right a minute ago it hit me that that's more than likely what it is... What got me was everyone referring to the "noise in the rear-end" as a RATCHETING noise... That's my noise... I don't know why I didn't think of it as a ratcheting noise before... It also does the slight squeal on the outside tire if I goose it right as I turn. I know that the earlier replies even said something about auto-lockers, but I just assumed all lockers where controlled devises. Like air lockers or the cable ones... I did my little test on a different day with my cousin and a good friend and had the same reaction from the rear-end. Both tires spin exactly the same with one on pavement and one on loose gravel. The traction was sooo good on the pavement that it actually dug in a little bit and exposed the wet looking tar stuff underneath, and that was in 70-75 deg. F. weather so I know the road wasn't just hot. A guy I work with has a 95 Nissan HB pick-up 4x4. The other day he went with me(in his truck,me in my pathy) to a off the map fishing hole that's got more than it's fair share of mud holes, and I noticed while following him that his rear tires would switch up a lot. The drivers side tire would spin like crazy slinging mud everwhere, then it would stop and the other would start. He barely ever had both spnning together. He almost got stuck on the way out running in 4hi. I used 4hi on the way in but didn't feel like I needed it so on the way out I left it in 2wd for most the way.(couple of the holes where a little deep and slippery for 2wd) He flat out didn't believe I got thru most of that mud in 2wd. So we did a little playing around in the pathy and he was floored by the difference in the traction mine has in just 2wd... He said it reminded him of a front wheel drive Cadillac that a friend of his had in high school. He said it was a V8 front wheel drive older model Cadillac, like 70 something model with mudders on the two front wheels... I'd like to have seen that car. He said that Caddy would walk thru some deep mud and barely lose speed... :o Thanks a million to 95PathDN for the write-up on the Lock Right, and thanks to everyone on this forum for all the help and knowledge you've all givin...On all subjects... PS: Has anyone every seen heard of a front wheel drive V8 Caddy??? He's not one to tell a lie, but I've just never seen or hear of one... Plus I was born in 77 so it may be a before my time/when I was just a kid kinda car...

Don't take this advice... Have you thought about a bribe? :contract: Those guys usually make little to hardly any money working at those gas stations and auto garages that do inspections... Talk to the guy a little and see what kind of guy he is... Look for the young guys they always need beer money. Also, go during lunch hour. The bosses are usually out packin food in thier mouths and they leave the rookie there for the hour.... $20 will still get you a long way with the right girl, er um, I I I mean gas station attendent... Remember not to take any of this garbage seriously!!! :o sly sssh -thnkboutit-

I say weld it and forget it. If you need to remove it someday use a hacksaw.

First thing I'd check would be the brakes... Most of'em make a squealing noise to let you know it's time to change'em. Some squeal like that when they're still good.

With gas prices the way they are I'm still hoping it works a little. -thnkboutit-

I'd say be very skeptical of these things. I'm just testing it out. (If it don't work I got some cool magnets to play around with.) The more I read up on it the more stuff I find saying it doesn't work... My wife and I keep pretty strict routines during the week. We know exactly how much gas we should use in a givin period of time/miles. We started really watching it when the gas prices hit about $1.80 per gallon. I feel confident that if it doesn't work I'll be able to tell. The only thing I don't like is that I just did the oil change and added some Restore. That stuff may have a influence on the MPG... Also I just put 30x9.5x15 Dayton Timberline A/T's on the back. I'll get the front ones in a couple of weeks

I read that somewhere on here, but I think the recall is for the 95 model???

Good question... I found out about this by hunting for fuel saving devices on ebay. One of the fuel savers that caught my eye was the magnetic one. I didn't see any point in paying $25-$50 on one from ebay and figured it was just strong magnets. So I did so research to figure out how/if and why it works. I came up with some pretty convincing reading material on the subject. That's how I found out all you need is a strong neomagnet with the south pole side against the fuel line. The more powerful the magnet the better it's suppost to work. Here's an pic of how it works. One website I found on the subject put it this way... You can easily burn a log(wooden log), but if you break that same log into a thousand pieces it'll burn a lot hotter and faster. Suppost to be the same typa thing I guess. Your fuelhas those clusters of hydrocarbon and the outside is the only parts that burn leaving the unburned portions to go out as either carbon deposites or pollution outa the tail pipe. I'll let you know if I think it works in a week or so.