TrailChaser

And don't forget to wire your relay to the ignition so it turns off when the engine is off...

Go look in my thread that Pezzy posted a link to. My prediction is that you will hit a brick wall at the ECU unless you know how to remap on the fly... If you had a carbed engine the cell I built would work great. I can almost run my lawnmower engine off the HHO my cell kicks out. If you get the cell to produce enough gas then heat build-up becomes your problem. If I link together 3 more cells like the one I have now I could use it as a cutting torch. It works, I'm just not dedicated/smart enough to make it work on my pathy.(not the way I expect anyway) My pathy didn't get better fuel mileage, but it did make the engine virtually silent after a few minutes of driving.

I hope this helps a little. Rear Diff Skid Building a Skid Full Skids Building Rock Sliders I'm not selling them anymore, but that should give you another visual of what the mounts and stuff look like. I thought about making them wide enough to cover the t-bars, but that would have added way to much weight.(almost double) I've never had a problem with my t-bars since they tend to be pretty flexable when rubbing on the rocks. Like the others said, 1/8" is junk. That's what the weak stock front splash & t-case skids are.(I think it's a metric measurement) 3/16" is the bare minimum I would use, anything less and you're adding weight not protection.

Ya, They're AC's crapola "adjusted angle UCA" BS... Adjusted about a half a degree if any.lol This is just a bandaid till I can do the SAS. I have to keep this thing drivable till then.

As for the tires... When it was shimmed out, and the upper balljoint was not broken the tire was level. Here's some pics of the camber after the spacers went in but BEFORE I took out the shims. After I took the shims(washers) out the camber was perfect on the drivers side and a little bit off on the passenger side with no shims at all.

I have broken about a dozen ball joints for my upper control arms. I finally decided to do something about it.(The joys of being a machinist) The main reason I was breaking them is because of the severe angle the lift I have puts them in. The ball rides on the edge of the socket instead of the middle. It was bad enough that the shaft was indented from hitting the body of the ball joint so much. Here is my fix that I made with the help of Mike at work. Along with the results. In this pic you can see the problem... I had to use 6 washers were to adjust the camber angle. It was shimmed almost 1inch. Now... Flat against the frame is perfect. (luck not calculations) What I used... Here's a before and after...

I've been having some problems with the truck and just kinda lost interest in the whole HHO thing. I still have all my stuff and I'm still planning to give it my best shot. Stay Tuned... PS: We made it thru Ike okay. Lost power for a while and had a helluva mess to clean up, but I got some good pics and videos. Check that thread for the pics. The video isn't online yet.

I don't know how I missed this, but WOW. I'm glad to hear you got him back legally. You're a bigger man than me. If I ever caught someone vandalizing or breaking into my rig; I hate to think of what I'd do. I'd most likely be the one in cuffs when the smoke cleared.

None yet, I need to get the new cell and electronics built and tested. For now I'm running a simple smacks booster(google for free plans) and it's definitely making my engine run quiet. As for gas mileage, I don't have any results to post. My speedo is not hooked up so I'd need to run a good distance with my GPS to check it. I think what I'm going to do instead is put a smacks booster in my wifes car w/out her knowledge and do a blind test. She's VERY anal about her mileage so she'll definitely report an increase or decrease.

You aren't looking for a mechanic, you're looking for a gigolo.

I installed the simple six plate cell into my pathy over the weekend. The cell is only making about .5 liters per minute(desired output is 1.5-2lpm) drawing around 20amps at the normal 13.5-14volts that the charging system supplies. I hooked up the cell downstream of the lowbeam relay so I could still turn it on/off from my seat w/out having to run a new set of wires and hook up a switch.(keep in mine this is totally temporary) I ran the gas(HHO) hose from the cell to a bubbler(mason jar) on the other side of the engine. The gas then goes into a vac. line from the bubbler. I ran it for the first time today on the way to work which is about 15mins away at 70ish mph. The only difference I could really notice was the engine was much quieter than it normally is.(keep in mind I'm only running a third of the recommended amount) Today I'm telling my boss(who wheels the X) and a co-worker about it today while driving us to lunch. Right about the time we're pulling in to park I'm telling them about how I set it up so I can turn it on/off via the headlight switch. I guess I was having a brain fart, because for some reason I inadvertently turned my lights on then got out and we went and ate lunch. So the whole time we were in there the cell was pumping out half a liter of gas a minute. When we got back out to the truck I tried to start it, but it was acting like the starter solenoid wasn't engaging. I tried a few more times and finally BOOM. Then HOLY SH!T WHAT WAS THAT!!! People came out of the restaurant to see what the hell that noise was also. I knew instantly what that noise was. Hydrogen explosion... So we get out to investigate and I'm still scratching my head as to HOW this happened until I saw the headlights on. Then I knew... What a freakin DA... When I popped the hood I figured I'd see pieces of broken mason jar all inside my engine compartment. Not the case. The glass held up great, but the TIGHTLY screwed on lid was blown off. After further investigation I concluded that it was a fire type explosion and not just pressure. The reason the bubbler was there in the first place is for safety. It actually did a great job of doing it's job and keeping the fire from reaching the cell. If it had gotten to the cell it most likely wouldn't have done too much damage since it's housed in sch40 PVC. I don't want to find out how bad that would be, but I assume I would at least lose my radiator in the blast. It did leave a nice solid reminder in my hood. Enough typing, time for the pics. Here's the cell. This is the bubbler with a F'ed up lid. Check out how it smashed the top of the ring against my hood. Here's the mark it left on the inside of the hood. Here's the outside of the hood. That dent has a nice ring to it. lol Well, I learned a thing or two with this happening. 1.Get an easy pop-off top bubbler. 2.Wire it so it only comes on when the ignition is on.

No real updates yet, I've been sick for the last couple of days. The cell I made in the video is suppose to be a joke compared to the real cell I'm making from the plans I bought. That cell was from some free instructions and looked really easy/cheap to make so I decided to do it first to see if I thought there was any need to go forward with the real plans since they are a bit expensive to follow since you have to buy a lot of 4" sch80 CPVC and electronics to control the electrodes. I measured the production of my first "plate" cell and I was getting about .5 liters per minute at 12volts and 20amps using 6 plates and having every other plate connected in series. Most people are shooting for 1.5-2lpm for the desired effect on fuel milage. The fancy one I'm building doesn't measure output in liters for some reason. They just tell you what (high)pressures it should operate at under certain engine rpms.(Which is suppose to be the reason for the sch80 CPVC)

A guy in the club is selling his two pathies. It'd be a long drive, but it's a hell of a deal. http://tnt4x4club.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=511 recent events forcing sale. '88, 4x4, auto, cold a/c, very straight body, new tires, runs, but motor knocks. '89 4x4, 5 sp, "okay" body, spray on undercoating from body line down, new 3" body lift installed, steering shaft needs to be put back on from lift, new street tires, runs fine, needs LCA bushings, but I have them. pic is before lift and undercoating. $1000.00 for both. Located in Arlington, Tx.

At some point in history the smartest people on Earth thought, (sorry) KNEW the Earth was flat... The smartest people on earth at some point in history KNEW that everything in the universe revolved around the Earth.... Just like right now the smartest people on Earth KNOW you can not achieve over unity....Even tho lots of people are doing it. You have to admit that you really don't know anything about the subject first hand. You are simply regurgitating stuff that you read that was most likely regurgitated from some other source. Which seems to be the main problem with the internet, and forums like these. Just like when someone reads up on how to change a CV or something then turns right around and starts giving advice to people on how to do the job before ever actually doing it yourself. Why? Maybe you genuinely want to help, but the fact of the matter is I find it pretty disrespectful that you post up the exact thing I specifically asked NOT to hear in my thread. As for changing driving habits... Unless you go from driving like a teenager who thinks he could qualify to drive for Nascar to driving like a 80yr old grandmother; you'll never get 25-60% increase in fuel mileage. I was waiting until some of these guys posted up MPG results, but here it is anyway... This is a link to the same guy from my first links new thread.(He made a new thread because of all the BS in the other thread.) I wheel with some of these guys and know a couple personally. Also note that a lot of the guys posting in that thread were sounding just like you in the previous thread, yet now that someone they know is showing that it definitely has an effect they've swallowed their pride and are now on board with the whole thing. http://www.lonestarjeepclub.org/board/showthread.php?t=22303 PS. Don't try the fuel line magnets... I already tried them a couple of years ago and they do not work.

The simple answer... She puts up with A LOT of my crap like this. Besides it's over 100degs in the garage when it cools down. I've seen a couple of those videos... My local Fox News station did a story on it a few months ago debunking all this stuff. It doesn't affect my opinion or views one way or the other since I understand that there are lots of people with lots of $$$ who want this buried. A lot of the people who HAVE got it to work end up using more than one cell. It does burn hotter, but one of the main problems is that gas absorbs a lot of the heat and w/out as much in the cylinder things do tend to get hotter just like when you lean out a carbed engine. The goal is to have the gas made on demand, storing it would defeat the purpose. Besides, I wouldn't want to be in a wreck with compressed hydrogen in the vehicle. That's why I don't carry my cutting torch with me, besides a wreck a slow leak in the cab would be BAD when you open the door and the dome light comes on. I'm really not trying to be rude here, but.... As I stated in a previous post, I've heard/read all that a thousand times from posted by people just like you who want to "seem smart" about something they read up on or learned in college. Bottom Line... When you finish trying it yourself and it doesn't work THEN go out into the internet and tell everyone it doesn't work based on YOUR experience. This is a good post by a fellow experimenter over on the Dallas Jeep Forums from the link on the first page. (quote from Luv-N-Mud)Originally Posted by Luv-N-Mud View Post Im curious if his gain are typical results or an exception. If they are typical, then, 10 tanks in my van would pay for it. Just seems like there would be a pretty big boom on these things if they worked as well as we are hearing. (quote from Chris) This thread is 9 pages, and 95% of it is mostly people yelling "snake oil" before I even have the thing built yet. That's why there is no "boom". That's why I've elected not to post anymore of my project info in this thread. I want the next thread to actually be nothing but technical info. This one can just continue to be the debate about whether it's "snake oil" or not. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- He hit the nail on the head with that post. 100% of the people I've seen who say it won't/can't work have not tried it themselves. I've had this offer on the table all this time and you all bitch about gas prices, yet I have not had one PM request for this info. If it doesn't work I may feel like a fool for trying it all out and wasting some $$$ in the process, but I KNOW people who are actively running these and are getting good results. I have plans from my kit to make a controller, but for $50 I may just buy one.

Here are a couple of videos showing what I've got so far. The first one is me testing everything for my first time.(make sure you see the 9v batteries effect at the end of the video.) This video is after a little more experimenting to show how volatile the gas is.(mainly it's just cool fireworks) I just wanted to let everyone know that I'm working on it and the offer still stands for others to test this with me.

If you are planning to pay up, and want to save your $$$ ask for community service. A lot of times the judge will be more lenient if they see you're WILLING to give up a couple of weekends helping clean up your community.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showuser=1110

Yep, I don't remember KILLVOX leaving. I guess he's been gone for over a year now. It's been at least that long since I've seen him post anything.

I started wheeling with an auto pathy back in the day, then when I lost reverse I knew it was time to swap in a manual. I immediately noticed that the pathy had way more power at highway speeds. On one big overpass on the way to work the auto would ALWAYS loose about 7-8mph and shift out of OD. With the manual it didn't loose any speed in 5th gear with a little extra gas. As for the trails... It was quite an experience the first couple of times out. LOTS of stalls and restarts on real steep hills and when climbing ledges trying to finesse it and getting a feel for it. I've since gotten better and don't stall quite as often. The main hangup while offroading with a manual is that the truck rolls too fast under power with no "real" torque in 4wl at about 700-800rpms. With type of wheeling I do(softroading lol) it's hard to find a nice balance between ease and stalling. I try my best to never ride the clutch, but sometimes you just have to deal with a little stinky clutch smell to get over an obstacle w/out rolling or getting airborn. I'm at the point where getting crawler gears is no longer an option. If I continue to wheel I have to do something, but $1000+ is alot of $$$ for something I'm only going to use while offroading. If I still had an auto the crawler gears would be out of the question.(But I do love the feel and control of a manual and would never switch back.)

Simon, I have thought about how it would work while offroad, but I would most likely just have a way to cut it off for the weekend. If it does work and I really want to use it offroad, I'll probably just install some type of cut off valve that will let air thru but not liquid.(like on a shop-vac perhaps) Also having the cell on a swivel like the old jeep cup holders would keep it mostly level even at extreme angles. I really hope I have to worry about that in the near future, since that would mean it worked and I'm getting around 25mpg. K9sar, "They" say that the orthoburns HOT and the para counters that? I have no idea about it, since the first time I saw the words was when I read them in the manual. As for the HCI and shells... I had to mess with hydrochloric acid enough while doing pool service to know better. :tonguefinger:

Ya, I've read enough of the skeptics reasons why it won't work and why noone should waste their time on it, but you know what... Not ONE of the skeptical people I've seen who think they're soooo smart and KNOW this WILL NOT work have actually tried it themselves. It's amazing how quick "smart" people dismiss stuff without even giving it a second glance because according to what little info they learned in high school says it won't work. This info to build the entire system it RIGHT HERE, I already bought and paid for one set of instructions and I've since gotten a different set of plans for free from someone else. ALL I ASK, is that BEFORE you come on this thread being a skepic about something that's being offered for testing for free.... Try it for yourself and post up your results, or shut up and wait for people on here who are testing it to post up some results. I've read NO LESS than 5hs worth of skeptics reasons as to why it won't work on a dozen other forums, so I'd really rather not have that happen here.(Maybe anyone who wants to tell everyone why it won't work or just to spew their stupidness about how something is a waste of intranetz space should just start their own thread.) I'll believe it 100% when I see it work for myself, but for now I'm about 85% sure it will work when I finally get it put together. I'll just get this out there to save all you skeptical people some time and maybe I can help save some intranetz space. This is whole concept is impossible and the only way anyone could run a car on hydrogen from electrolysis to ANY extent would be if they towed a power plant behind their car. This is all just another scam about, zero-energy, perpetual motion, and besides the laws of thermodynamics would never allow it to happen. You simply can not get something for nothing, and it's impossible to achieve over unity. Someone please call these guys in Japan and let them know they're wasting their time. http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/pop...14&src=news

Those are actually cheap ebay knockoffs. I think I paid $160 shipped for both.

I like it, looks good.