TrailChaser

Since I picked up the metal detecting hobby I tend to find lots of interesting stuff for free. Although I tend to do a bit of work digging things up, so maybe it's not completely free. lol Just a few of my finds: Gold: Grill 10K and worth about $120 melted(found about 3ft from my front door and about 3" deep at my old house in Houston(ghetto)) Necklace 10K worth about $185 melted: Money from other countries: Those are Euros Frank..? Peso Stainless Ring(being held up with a sterling silver tie clip that was dug up) I find LOTS of charms and earrings:

I honestly think we have passed the point of no return... Back in the 90's we as the American population had the chance to put walmart and others like it out of business. Now it's become almost impossible for the average American to not shop at a store like walmart since they/we(average Americans) have ran them all out of business. It's hard to resist being able to go to one place and do all your shopping and save $$$ in the process. Lots of small communities don't even have a "normal" grocery store anymore since walmart started dotting the map with their supercenters. You have to drive 30+miles to the nearest Hayes, Kroger, HEB, ect. knowing that you will be paying more for the same food, then you still have to go somewhere else to shop for clothes, hardware, sporting goods... It's a shame that we have gotten to this point, and I feel it's only going to get much worse. If a community bands together to reject a new proposed walmart supercenter then walmart will simply build just outside town then the town loses tax $$$ among other benefits. You can't expect them to shut down a working walmart because they employ too many people of the town who now rely on that 20-30hr a week paycheck.(Walmart doesn't wan't "full time" employees") Walmart also found a new way to save us $$$... They no longer offer a 401K package!!! I guess they figure if you're dumb enough to work for them you don't have the brains to think about the future. If you work for walmart and try to band employees together for any sort of group benefit you will be fired ASAP along with anyone else involved... If you do too good on the preemployment test you will not be hired.(heard that from a manager personally) They are looking for midrange intelligence at best, but you can't be "too dumb" to get a job there. They found our weakness and exploited it... Now we have to reap what we've sown.

I have some stuff for the "shiny" thread also when it gets started. lol

Sounds like it may be time to invest in some anti-theft gadgets. I recommend disconnecting the trigger wire from the starter and running a hidden starter button. Then when they go thru all the trouble of getting the ignition "on" they will get no response from the starter. You have to turn on the ignition then hit the button to crank it. Pros: Will not crank from the ignition no matter what the criminal does. You can hide the button anywhere you want and keep the location to yourself. If you have a 5-speed you can now start it in gear if you stall on a tricky section of trail. Cons: The button is live all the time.(If you hit the button the starter will turn over even w/out the key in the ignition. Got kids..?) Pain in the arse when someone else has to crank your pathy.(like when getting an alignment or something at the shop) Another fairly cheap option is to have a magnetic switch(reed switch) interrupting the power to your fuel pump. You have to wave/stick a magnet to the spot behind the dash where you installed the switch before driving. Pros: Completely hidden and almost fail proof if you have it install correctly. Cons: lose your magnet and you lose the ability to crank your truck without bypassing your switch or finding a new magnet.(easy to find a magnet around the house but not so easy while in the middle of nowhere)

Windshield Mount for the Camcorder(fail(was too shaky while moving)) Rear Bumper Jerry Can Carrier with Custom Lock Repaired one of the shotty welded L&P Centerlinks for a buddy on these forums. Front Bumper

I have been a welder for a while now and switched jobs to be a machinist about 3.5-4yrs ago. I own a Ready Welder and I love it. I have built both my bumpers and countless other stuff with my RW. Here's a few of the things I've built. Attachment for the Hi-Lift Jack to get a better grip on the sliders. Brackets to not only mount my seats, but give the drives seat a bit of a lift. Skids to cover the vital components. Fastener Protection Sliders and the Big Asre Jackstands Lower Link Skid Rear Diff Skid

My sole reason for the swap was the fact that I would have to use my hand throttle to "idle" my pathy at 2000rpms just to get the a/c to blow cool air on my wife and other passengers while they sit in the truck and wait for me to spot others thru obstacles on hot summer days in Texas. My pathy never had a problem with overheating. Now when on the trails I can kick the taurus fan on high speed and let the truck idle with zero a/c problems. I have mine set up on a three way switch. low/temp controlled, off, hi-speed. When idling after the truck is warmed up the fan only runs for about 30secs, and stays off for a while between cycles.

If you are talking about jacking up the truck then letting it down to smash the bushing in then I think you are going about it wrong. I'm not saying it won't work, only that there are many many better ways of achieving your desired results. Also your pathy is not likely 6,000lbs. It's closer to 4,000lbs and you have to divide that weight by the amount of tires on the ground.(about 1/2ton per tire) 1,000 pounds of pressure is probably not enough to push that bushing in. I've done the job a couple of times and it's not hard to push them in using a nice size c-clamp. I recommend using a bench vise and a C-clamp. Also, Keep in mind that I have seen the lip get cut off trying to push these bushing in without the use of a funnel. I know lots get it done w/out any problems, but it does happen when you use lots of force. I made up a little kit to ease doing this job, but the last person to use it never returned it.(it was covered by a deposit so it's no big deal to me; just kinda sux for others who may have benefited from it. Here are some pics.

I finally solved the problem. It was a faulty distributor... Thanks for the timing light recommendations because that is how I figured out it was a dist. problem. When checking the timing I noticed that things were a little strange because I was not getting a steady flash.(especially at higher RPM's) Then just for kicks I decided to leave the T-lite hooked up while playing around starting it to see how it would react when the engine cranked backwards. After a couple of failed cranking attempts I noticed that I was getting a seemingly random flash from the timing light AFTER the engine had stopped cranking. I'm talking about a solid flash 1-2 seconds after it stopped cranking..? That to me was all the evidence I need to shell out $65 for a used distributor from car-part.com. I finally got out there this morning to install the dist. and now the pathy is running good again. Thanks for all the help and I hope this follow-up quenches some of your curiosity about my mystery problem. Hopefully if anyone else runs across this problem they will find this thread and save a ton of time, $$$, & headache. lol

First thing I taught my kids when they started riding bikes, and playing in the road was to get the hell out of the road when a car is coming... I also tell them to assume the person driving is a complete moron and can't drive/is changing the radio station ect. so don't think "oh they see me and won't run me over" About half the people in Houston drive w/out a license, insurance, or a brain. I'm glad I moved back to small town USA and got the hell out of the city.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3iqSDGZ3kI&feature=player_embedded#! This is quite possibly the funniest video I've seen all year... I've dealt with sooo many dumb ........s that think it's cool to hang out/dance/play/ect. in the middle of the road with a sidewalk on each side. You honk at them and they give you a look like you're pissing them off. I hope the guy driving didn't get hurt, and I hope he gets his truck fixed. My comment on the video was: "Where's an 18 wheeler when you need one?"

You would need to drill it with the bearing out of the sleeve, and that's most likely not gonna happen.(once they're pressed in they tend to stay in) Otherwise you run the risk of drilling into the bearing itself(good luck, the bearing is probably harder than a HSS drill bit)or at least getting shavings inside them by not removing them. I don't know exactly how Bryan is having them made at the machine shop, but I bet they have a ridge in the middle of the sleeve that both are pressed against so they don't actually touch inside the sleeve and to keep from pressing them in too far. When it comes to greasing the bearing, my advice is to just leave them alone. These bearings are built to handle some serious pressures and stresses. They will never see the kind of stress on our trucks to need new grease, besides they hardly even turn 180degs. Our tiny tie-rods will pretzel long before those bearings failed. IMHO you would have better luck drilling a hole down the center of the grade 8 bolt(with a carbide drill in a really rigid mill) and trying to cut threads into that bolt for the zerk will be the highlight of that task. Then you have the problem of a hollow bolt holding your steering together.

If I were in your area I'd definitely help you out knowing how big of a PITA that job is. I did it mostly by myself in my cramped garage in the middle of the winter. I only almost killed myself several times by dropping the tranny off the jack and almost onto myself. It's a beast outside the truck, and it's nothing less than a monster when it's unbolted under the truck.

I think disc brakes were only standard equipment on the LE version. However they can be found on some SE's due to it being an option for the original owner. Maybe even the XE, but I've never seen one with disc in the rear. The metal bits and shaving are pretty common in all rear diffs. There's lots of metal on metal action in there. You should see the plug from a diff with a mechanical locker.

I've had one of the 8000lb HF winches on my pathy for years, and it always does great. I've used it lots of times. Winched Xterras up some pretty nasty climbs(that I made in the pathy) So far I've never had to use it to save myself. I have maxed it out a few times where it just plain would not pull any harder. Then I broke out the snatch block and it pulled like a champ. I've had it too hot to hold your hand on the case for more than a second or two also. As some on here know I'm not nice to my toys and this winch exceeded my expectations a couple of years ago. I bought mine second hand for $150 from a guy who never even used it once. He was replacing it with a Warn...

Have you tried putting a 5-speed in between the engine and transfer case? That solved all my autotragic tranny problems. But seriously, Try to get in touch with Barry(NissanNut) he lives close-by you and he's the only person I know of that has really dug into one of our auto-tranny's just for information reasons. He is usually found on nissantrailriders.com

Here's some advice from another thread: Here's the link to the whole thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26822&hl=ignition&st=0

Okay Okay, I'll buy a timing light tomorrow. lol After reading a lot of post today on here from people having different starting issues. Now my suspects are: Fusible link(cuongs suggestion from earlier) CPS(something about it not allowing the injectors pulse) Inhibitor Switch(I can't remember what I did with it when I did the auto-to-5 speed swap a few yrs ago.) Low Voltage(I know this is a problem in several areas on our early model pathies) Thanks for everyones help so far, I'm still hunting down the gremlin.

So, did that fix the problem and how do you like your new engine. I'm having a problem getting my pathy to start, and mostly restart after it's warmed up. I was thinking of digging into this next to see if it works.

The main reason is because I don't have a timing light, or access to one w/out buying it for $40. I guess I can start making some calls to see if anyone has one I can borrow.

Now that I bought a brand new battery it will start everytime when the engine is cold, but after it heats up it won't crank up from the starter.(turning over plenty fast enough) If the timing was off it wouldn't start up at all, and if it did, it would run like crap. It's actually running really good with lots of pep. It just won't start if it's warmed up unless I push start it. Time to loosen some exhaust flange bolts and relieve some back pressure.

Thanks Cuong, That makes sense about the pressure switch. I know it's been broken off for a while and I have never suspected it of giving me any problems. Let's ponder this. What would allow the engine to start up while cold, but keep it starting once it warms up? Could it be some sensor is getting warmed up by the engine and not doing it's job properly? The coolant temp sensor wouldn't cause this would it? The other main confusing point I'd like to touch on again: The truck will push start great even after being warmed up... I have tested this enough that all I need to do it slightly bump it while rolling in 2nd gear and it fires right up with no problems. I don't think it's due to higher RPM's either..?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BOR0/S26768.oap?year=1995&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&vi=1211993&keyword=power+steering+pressure+switch That's the switch on Oreillys website. I love that they have multiple views of each part. Mine is physically broken. I think the battery slid into it when the strap broke on an offroad trip a couple years ago.