TrailChaser

Rust from the bottom back passenger side.

Passenger side front.

Here's a few undercarrage shots. Looks like a slow oil leak.

side view.

Here's the engine, it looks too clean. Well compared to my last pathy.

They got the back end also.

Here's that damage I was talking about. -alcohol-

Here's the scary part. :o I think that's the original fluid... pssd

Here's the homemade hitch I was talking about. It shouldn't take more than 30mins to cut that off with a good disc.

Closer... :o

Picture time... :o The files are pretty small. Less than 200k I think. The first one is of the back passenger seat. You can check your U-joint while drive.

no tranny cooler, cept for the stock one in the rad. Just got back, took a few pics... I'm in a hurry right now so i'll post'em in a bit. I drove it and the shock are TOASTED tranny fluid is almost black(took pic of it) and it's making a wierd rattling noise. Got the price down to $2,900+tax with t-belt W/P job plus he'll put on all new shocks. I'll be back with all the details later.

I thought about the x manifold studs as an afterthought, while driving away. I didn't hear the signature ticking when I cranked'er up, but at the time I was focused on the AC and how cold it was gonna get while sitting there. About the AC... I didn't think to check and see if it's still R12 or if it's been converted, but the AC got about as cold as my r134a AC that was in my 95 while sitting still. About the conversion... Is it a good thing? How likely is it that the converted system will preform good for a few more years? I forgot my DL at home so I didn't get to test drive it... I'm still a little concerned about that tranny fluid. Maybe the fluid wasn't as dark as I thought, maybe I just had dirty hands and that mixed with the fluid when I wiped the dipstick off...(yes I checked the oil and tranny fluid using my fingers as a rag) A little over an hour before I go back with the wife, camera, and DL... I'll bring a white paper towel to recheck the tranny fluid.

First off I'm looking at a 91SE, it has a real clean engine. I don't know if the engine is clean from them cleaning it or if it's just been well taken care of. I checked the air filter to see how horrible it was clogged, and to my surprise it was pretty clean. I checked the oil and it's recently been changed, with no real bad smells... I checked the tranny fluid and was not happy tho, it was more brown than red and had a kinda burnt smell, plus it has a homemade trailer hitch on the back... The salesman says it's a consignment truck and he knows the owner. I'm gonna get a few questions answered about what he was towing and how far/often. The salesman told me it was probly other cars. Whoever welded the hitch on did of good job bracing it, but did a crappy job with the actual welding(beads looked poor) and it looks totally cheesey because it's all made from angle iron. I'll take some pics when/if I go back. It HAS a LSD rearend confirmed by the sticker on the diff. I grabbed the centerlink and tried to wiggle it, but it was nice and tight. I couldn't see much under the frontend because of the factory skids and splash guards. The AC works. It has a nice solid frame and the only rust I could find was in the same place as everyone else... Under the back passenger seat. The rust there is kinda bad. mostly rusted thru in one spot and rusted all the way thru on another spot... I'm a little unhappy about finding that. The outside of the truck is nice. It has a nice red paint job and the legos with all the caps still on. The tires look ok. It only has damage in two spots and the only one worth mentioning is on the hood. It just looks like someone bumped into something on one side and dented the downward part of the hood at the very front of the truck. I wish I would have thought to bring my camera but I totally forgot... The asking price is $3,500 but he said he could go down to $3,200... Plus I asked about the water pump and timing belt being replaced and he told me that if I buy the parts he'll have'em installed. SOOOOO, tell me what you think from my long drawn out description. I'm going back later today to snap a few pics and let my wife check it out. Please post any questions I need to ask that I forgot, or things that I need to look for that I overlooked this last visit. Like: do all the power windows work, blinker, brakes, sunroof leak?, check under the seats for the S/P tool kit and rust. Let me know whether to run away or run to the bank... Thanks in advance for any help or advice. :bow:

So how much does it actually help? Does anyone know of any pics with the S/B connected and then disconnected?

Makes you almost want to start an ebay account and sell stuff with no shipping charges to see if helps sell...

I don't know if maybe I got a bad batch of tires or something, but I have to recommend to anyone NOT to buy the Dayton Timberline A/T's... I had two on the rear and blew out both on the freeway at 65mph, not at the same time... They blew out about a month apart, but they still had well over half the tread left and where only about 1.5yrs old. I bought'em from a guy that had a wreck and destroyed the front of his blazer tires included... They had full pressure (32psi) and I know for sure I didn't hit anything either time... Also, they blew out by "unwrapping" not from the sidewall...Both... That phoked Daytons rep for my, I was just thankfull I had'em on the back... That's the only tires I've ever blow on a 4 wheel vehicle. Blown out more than 10 on big rigs, mostly due to crappy company trailer tires. But hey, that's why you have duels.

(crickets can be heard in the background)

If you have a manual tranny don't get anything with GL-5 for it. The manual tranny has to have GL-4. I sold some castrol 80w90 GL-5 to a guy with a nissan last night... I told him about 3 times this is not good. Showed him where it says use only GL-4 on the computer. He still bought it. Some people... PS: Temporarily working for Oreilly Auto Parts till the next good welding job comes along... I get a helluva discount tho.

Where's the tranny ecu for an A/T?

You gotto luv those new reality shows where it they have lights shining in all the people in the vehicals faces... Looks safe... I had a cop tell my that he always pulls over people at night that have their dome light on... According to him over half WILL BE drunk... I use to talk to state troopers quite often while eatin in a truck stop... Thay always have cool stories, but they're dickheads if there's more than one sitting together.

:furious: Maybe we should all ask for free stickers... We could do like mudfinder said and use'em for TP or whatever suits you... Those things aren't free and it would be nice to cost him something... PS: what an asshat.

Pathy... check sig.

That would be sooo nice... I remember when I first found out that most 4x4's are really 4x2 in truth. I was with a friend in his camero at a girls house. It got late so her dad told us we had to leave... We get in the car and dude didn't want to back out because they had a curving driveway and it was dark. So he decides to go around her dads tacoma sitting in front of us... I guess they had a good sprinkler cause the ground was soggy and wet. We were stuck as soon as the back tire dropped off the pavement. He dad came out to pull us out and for some reason he too decided to drive in the grass. Two wheels on the driveway two in the grass... He dug two nice big holes and didn't move the camero at all.... We ended up calling out a wrecker to pull out her dads taco and then pull out the camero... The tow truck driver had the since to not drive in the grass and simply used his winch from dry ground. Nuff ramblin I got work to do...

Well put 88... I don't have a problem getting out to lock the driver side hub every once in a while. Hell, if nuthin else you can just lock up the drivers side and make whoever's riding bitch jump out and lock their side when the trail gets wild. :o Think of it this way... How many times while on a trail run will the guys that have a front locker even need it or use it? The ones I know of use it as little as possible because of the steering issues and the extra wear and tear on everything involved... The weld locked front has an advantage over the ABR because YOU pick the line you plan on running, and by picking your own line YOU choose where to put the passenger tire since it has all the power... The ABR will act like an open diff till you reach up and flip the switch. I think I'd be able to look up a steep hill from the bottom and decide THEN to lock it up or to leave it in 3wd... Autolocking hubs are weak as hell from what I hear and from a few pics I've seen on ones that looked like a bomb went off inside of'em... I haven't heard a story of someone breaking a manual hub with IFS yet tho.