TrailChaser

Oh, and the "word" is that lokka is making an auto locker for the r200a. and also for the 33 spline h233b crowd.

If you still want to lock the front end. Plan on having steering problems till you put on a TK1 modded centerlink and an idler arm brace. You can easily lock the front diff with a good welder. But then you'll need manual hubs so you can still turn. As for the LSD, the ones in the early pathies break away torque is 300ft lbs, were the newer ones (r50's, xterra's, frontiers) is like 50ft lbs. I'd like to think the 300zx came equipt with the 300ft lbs one. The main reason for the IFS is ride comfort. They wanted the consumer to be more pleased with the ride than the rock crawling abilities.

A friend of mine broke both mile marker manual hubs at the last "event" I went to. He was running 35's, is fearless and will try anything. Oh and he's welded the front diff.

You're going from Best to Worst trust me on that. Oh, and don't park it in your garage, it'll burn your house down.

Click here for a bunch of engines in a decent price range. I think couple of those are like $800 shipped with only 40k-60k miles on'em. Direct from japan. It would prbly be better than rebuilding it, and maybe cheaper.

Is it just me, or does that link say" list price $100 Our price $152.40"??? Are they proud to be more expensive? Nismo

I've been thinking that I broke the timing belt for the last 3 weeks... Turns out the little screw that holds the rotor to the shaft fell out. That little screw just saved me $1500. I screwed it back in and the ol girl cranked right up.

Wishful thinking on my part. :X

300ZX Twin Turbo My timing belt broke on my wife while she was driving down the road.(I haven't verified that's what happened, but I'm purty sure.) I've been told a VG33 will drop right in with no probs... So I was wondering if this would also???

Exactly

That's not good info... Tig is the BEST in almost all applications. Like you said it's time consuming, but if you want the BEST welds Tig is the way to go. This is comming from a welder that welds about 95% of the time with mig. I will not however weld anything with stick. I just hate stick welding.

After you get your relay and switch set up; just run one good power wire in a loop around the pathy and connect them to it. Use your frame to ground'em.

Here's my take on the steering systems. Calmini has a really great setup. It's just too expensive. For half the price you can go with the TK1 mod(L&P's setup) that I promise you WILL NOT break. I have a friend who makes his own for $200 a CL(PM me on details he's just 1 guy doing it as a favor for friends so I can't post his info) He has a WD21 running 35's and the guy is crazy on the rocks with that truck. Oh and he's locked in the front which puts more stress on the steering. He broke two MM hubs the last time I wheeled with him and never bent a tierod. I don't know if 88 is still selling the IA braces, but if not they're only $40 from L&P. You should really get one. I went for quite a while not really knowing what exactly the upgraded CL was really all about so I thought I'd inform everyone of how it works the way I understand it... Please pipe in and correct me if I'm wrong about any of the following. I'm all about learning more and correct info. Here it is: The point in replacing the stock centerlink with a modded one is that the stock CL has ball joints connecting it to the idler arm and pitman arm. This is a bad thing for a couple of reasons. First it moves in wierd ways when you hit bumps at speed which makes you wonder all of the road.(that not a big deal) The main reason it's a bad design is that when you're 4wheelin and your front suspension is articulating all over the place the forces, or contact with other metal parts bends the tierods because the centerlink can move so freely. With the TK1 CL the stock ends that connect to the IA and PA are cut off and replaced with 5/8" spherical bearings at each end. That eliminates the movement between the IA - PA and CL. That's why when you get the TK1 modded CL you have to use a 5/8" drill bit and drill out your idler arm and pitman arm to make room for the big arse bolt that replaces the OE ball joints.(make sure you drill a strait hole). So now the TRE's are the only parts that can move when you are driving over bumps and not turning the steering wheel. I hope that helps someone who didn't really understand the concept. I always thought it had something to do with hitting a rock or ledge with just one tire and it ripping apart from the centerlink.(NOOB)

*UPDATE* I bridged the amp and put the 15amp fuse back in. Sounds 100% better and hasn't blown the fuse in over a week. Thanks a million to everyone who helped out.

Does anyone know where to get the best prices on "good" 3/4 shackles for the truck.

Are the Sony speakers that Wal-Mart sells any good? I don't need top notch, but I do want it to sound a lot better than stock. I already have a Pioneer cd player installed. So now I just need decent speakers.

Has anyone every messed with the CC? Mine hasn't worked since I bought this pathy. I'm thinking it about time I fixed it. I'd like to move the controls to the dash and off the steering wheel. I'm almost positive the problem with the CC is in the controls on the steering wheel. They are real loose and kinda crooked. The light on the dash switch still comes on, so I'm pretty confident it can be repaired. I'm mainly wanting to move the controls so that I can install a Grant steering wheel one day. Any help on the subject would be great. Like how the cruise control works. How it's wired. or anything else you can think of... Thanks.

I think it's a 200watt amp. I don't have it bridged, because I don't really know how. I don't know what watt the woofer can handle, because I bought it at EZ Pawn for $40 and haven't takin it out of the box to look at the back. The fuse holder on the amp says "15amp" but I threw a 25 amp fuse in there yesterday and went to the beach and ran it all day without any problems. How exactly do I bridge the amp? What are the benefits to bridging it? I have it hooked up by running a big (+) wire from the battery to the amp with a 30amp fuse at the battery. I grounded it to the metal body right next to the amp. I have the amp hooked up to the pioneer cd player via the RCA jacks in the back of the CD player to the RCA jacks on the amp. Can I still bridge it even tho it hooked up like that? Does it really matter if you don't have the (+/-) speaker wires from the amp to the speakers right? I DO have the stock amps bypassed FYI.

Here is an ebay auction for the exact same one... I could just get a new one from that guy... $15 probly no shipping because it's local and I could pick it up.

The amp is a kenwood KAC-526 The speaker is a Rockford Fosgate 8" in a little box for a pickup truck.

I've got a Kenwood amp from a friend and it works good till it blows out the 15amp fuse in the amp. I've noticed that it's blowing it out faster and faster evry time I have to replace it...(replaced it 4 times so far) Does anyone know what could be causing that fuse to blow out? I know it's gotto be getting overloaded or shorting out, but it actually works good and basses good for a day or two. Then the bass just stops in the middle of a song. I'll get specifics on the speaker and amp and post those up in a minute or two. Thanks for any help.

I second that... The crome ones look sooo much better.

I've driven two different stock R50's and both had less power than my 95... Same for the 2000 model Xterra I test drove for my wife... I'm not talking about floor it to redline it to see how fast you can get to 70 or anything. I'm talking about getting on it at normal speeds, like between redlights. 2nd gear tells me all I needed to know. Has anyone ever raced a stock R50 with a good pathy,er, an early model one? I used to race a friend that had a 95 hardbody. He could pull away pretty easy, his truck was alot lighter tho.

The XE I had came with power everything? Why would that not be good if you hunt?

I like the LE, that's the one I have now. Comes with nice rims(not legos) and a sunroof. The nice rims that came with it are in the garage with the wimpy tires that came with the truck still on it.