TrailChaser

You have 3 because me and two other people added you to their list. But You can't add any friends or enemies.

You have to be a $$$ donor to have a friends or enemy list if I'm not mistaken. Come-on what's $3? I tip more than that for bad service.

What's with the XD?

Also keep in mind that if someone is messing with you; you can hire a hit man for the right price to take the guy out. Just do a area search and mail someone with level 300+ with an offer and the targets name/id#. I had to get my boss, he was trying to extort oil from me by threatening to keep me in the hospital. I had his a$$ handed to him for a small fee.

How often are you trying to shift into 4wd on the fly? Mine will go into 4 hi fine most of the time, but every now and then it'll protest a little. Are you driving a 5 speed or an auto? Maybe it has something to do with it not being in sync while under a load. If you're in an auto maybe try putting it in N for a second while shifting. If you have a 5speed maybe you can push in the clutch while shifting. I'm just throwing out ideas that I would try if it were happening to mine, none of this is from experience. I wouldn't think the cv's or auto hubs would have any effect on whether or not it'll shift into 4wd. They shouldn't be able to stop it from going into 4wd. If they were a problem you'd know after you were in 4wd. Do you shift into and out of 4wd alot while on the trails or wherever you use 4wd? If so maybe you wore something out that keeps the gears in sync.

I'm stuck on die trying. Can someone please downgrade a pic enough that I can use it? I have tried everything... Including photoshop, but I can't get any of my pics below 20-30kb even when I make them too small. Here's the pic I'd like to use.

Are you on my list? 8250 7502 7474 7619 8031 7793 7874 7788 7485 7908 7759 I just added all you guys to my friends list. I put up all the #'s so everyone else can just copy/paste to their own friends list. Names don't help, so I didn't add them. PS: I'm not on that list, but my number is 7507

I got past that one with the same setup except I have a pull strap. I'm now stuck on the powerline. I think I need to upgrade the t-case to get past it. Anyone have one bigger than a mighty mutt to sell cheap?

Why is it that I can't find a 16x8 Rock Crawler Series 97 with 3.5" or 3.75" backspacing? I can find 15" rims with that backspacing everywhere. I want my tires to stick out just enough that they still stuff into the fenders when compressed. I'm planning on getting the SSR 285/75/16 which are 33.9" in diameter and about 11.25" wide for about $145 per tire. JBCCOffRoad Am I missing something with the rim backspacing vs. size? I know that the less the backspacing(lower number) the more the tires/wheels stick out the sides. What is stock on the chrome steel wheels on a 95 about 5" of BS.

The damper is that little box on the firewall that has to be bled if you do work on the clutch system. It's basicly a bad joke that Nissan likes to play on it customers. It robs you of the clutch "feel" and responsiveness. This is all just hearsay for me right now as I just found out about this "free" mod myself and have not actually done it yet. It's pretty well known mod among the 280-300z crowds.

Yep, they're the same. Buy one and it'll fit either side.

Thanks, The pathy wasn't running when I shot that video. That's why it seems smooth.

Is this one any better?

I know of at least three different daily driver rigs running those. I hear good things about them. Enough to make me lean toward those for my next set.

That sucks. We gonna remake the gang?

Hoohaa (That's a link to his thread on these boards.)

And don't forget to remove the damper.

Thanks for the goodies. I finally got past the newb chicken trail.

I'm trying not to do a body lift unless it's absolutely necessary to clear the tires in the front. I'm more than willing to trim out whatever sheetmetal is required to get the 33's on my pathy as it is right now. I just need to decide what backspacing to go with on the new rims.

Here's a pic of the latch. I like it because it not only looks cool, it holds pressure back and down on the arm to eliminate any possible movement.

I just cut the part off at the top were it that turned toward the middle. I don't think it effected height at all. Those pics were taken with all my tools in the back, along with two heavy big deep cycle batteries and the 50+lbs jerry can full of gas and all my trail tools and spare parts. It's a bit stiffer of a ride now, but not too bad. 'm hoping they'll settle a little in the next couple of months. The ride is much better when the truck is loaded tho.

Thanks Simon, It's pretty tight and packed with grease.

Here's a few pics of the bearings getting pressed on. Note the 14mm allen wrench I used. My biggest allen wrench at home is 10mm so I just used a 14mm bolt with a nut on it. Worked great in a pinch. :wink: I forgot to mention that I made a sleeve to press the lower bearing on. The unpainted finished hinge. It changed color from the heat of welding on it. It changed color again because I painted it. It's smooth with zero slop now. Thanks for looking.

I started working on a new hinge to replace the original design I came up with that never worked as well as I thought it should. I started by turning a 7" piece of 3" mild steel bar stock down to 2.75". Then I turned the base and drilled a 2" deep hole and tapped it with a M16x2.0 tap. Next I took a 1.375" drill and drilled a 3.5" deep hole then started cutting on the inside with a boring bar to get the right ID for the races it sit in. I also had to machine in a lower step since the bearing itself protrudes from the race about 50 thousandths of an inch. The same thing was done to the opposite side after I cut it off. This step was the trickiest. I had to turn the cap with an ID for the main shaft a ring to press the bearing, and I wanted it to be close. Like less than 25 thousandths of an inch gap between the cap and main part that swings. The next step was to drill and tap a hole for a grease zerk. Last but not least I turned the head of the bolt so now it's shorter by half and I added a nice 45deg edge to make it look better. 8) Here's a few pics. The hole was drilled and tapped extra deep so I could use long bolts to press the bearing to the bottom of the shaft. Here are the measurements if anyone else wants to make one.

I actually didn't measure, but I could snap a pic and post it up after the sun comes up. I need to find a stock pathy to compare measurements to. Anyone with a stocker want to measure from the ground to the middle of the rear fender lip. I don't have the flares, so I need the measurement from the bend in the sheet metal.