TrailChaser

I'd be a little worried about the labor costs, but I don't see why a good shop wouldn't do the swap. It's 100% bolt on. You might want to print out a little "how to" of the install from here to give whatever shop you hire. I'm sure they'll act like they don't need it, but will end up using it. Main thing to keep in mind... In 92-94 somewhere nissan went from analog to electronic speedo, and you should get a matching tranny if you want a speedo. I did about an hour of work with a dremel to get the old speedo equipment into the gauge cluster on my 95, and I still haven't hooked it up. I still need to drill a hole thru the firewall(behind the engine) to run the cable from the transfer case to the back of the speedo. Be sure to tell them about the proper fluid level. David

Glad to hear that damage was minimal and you're okay. I've heard some real horror stories involving deer being hit. Here in Houston there are parts of town where the deer are out of control and you just about can't drive around at night very fast. No hunting in the city, so they over populated like crazy.

I'm also a member.

It's mostly heat from the engine/exhaust manifolds flowing under the pathy. If you crack the windows you'll notice the heat becomes really bad, but with them closed it's not nearly as bad. I thought for a long time it was heat from the auto tranny, but it's just as bad with the 5speed.

It's been put on the backburner for now, but I haven't forgotten about it.

That is strange. I've had my rear sway-bar removed with a locker for quite a while and never noticed anything like you described. The only way my sway bar would go back on my truck is if someone broke into my garage and reinstalled it as a joke. I can however lift a front tire off the ground while accelerating from a stop while the front wheels are turned... Kinda spooky the first time it happened.

Maybe it's a sign that you should keep it..? Have you listed it in Craigslist? Autotrader mag/online? Those two sources sell pretty good, and you can even list it in Craigslist for the other cities that are within a couple of hundred miles from you. I know I was ready to drive to where ever the pathy I was looking for was located when I bought mine. I was lucky and got one close, but I was about to drive over 1000 miles to pick one up. Good luck, and take good pics to post.

B since you've been such a cool guy to so many people on here over the years. I'll sell you a Ready Welder at cost if you want to go with the best welder for the $$$. I'm sure you've already read up on'em, but if not here's a little description for anyone who's not familiar with the welder. It's a portable welder that fits in a large briefcase and uses 12v batteries for power.(it can also use a stick or mig welding machine for power) With two batteries and .035" wire it puts out about 230-250amps which is commercial grade power, and for more power you simply hook up a third battery in the series. This welder has far more power than anything you can buy and plug into an outlet at home, 110v or 220v. It is a wire feed welder that can weld with just about any size wire. It has a 100% duty cycle.(limited by the charge in the batteries) On two fresh batteries the company claims about 45mins of trigger down welding. I've personally ran thru three one pound rolls in a single charge and still had juice when I finished.(One pound of wire usually lasts about 15 minutes welding at an average feed rate.) I'll make a thread sometime in the future about me selling these and what I'll be charging including the NPORA discount. I was just made a wholesaler/distributer after the Ready Welder people found my crappy video on youtube and gave me a bunch of freebies. Feel free to PM me with any questions. Or email me at foremanmetalworks@yahoo.com.

Those pics are from back in the day. Like Simon says.(I used to luv that game) They now come with pins and castle nuts. I just wanted everyone to see one of his CL's before someone posted this... :worthless:

Bryan is a good friend of mine,(outside the internet) and I personally vouch for anything he makes. Edited to say: This CL is one he made a long time ago. The new ones come with cotter pins and castle nuts.(not pictured) Here's a pic of the first one he made back in Dec. 05. David

X2 on that for me. I can tell when I;m in a hurry and try to take corner faster than I should, but other than that it's all good. I drive it 80mph almost everyday with no problems. Save yourself a little $$$ and just take it off temporarily just to see what you think.

Contact all the court tv shows like Judge Judy and Joe Brown with your situation. THEY pay you if/when you win your case. So you get the word out and actually get your $$ back. I'm almost 100% sure those shows don't care what state you're in as long as your story is good enough to put on the air. I had a friend that went on the Joe Brown show is how I know. I really can't believe this is not already taken care of. Is he still taking orders for unsuspecting customers?

If you need the bolts I most likely have a set in the garage, but you might look into getting shiney new ones considering what they're for.

I've got an abundance of CV's and hubs on hand to destroy, and I'm getting good/fast at replacing them. I just want to get down the trails better. I've been planning on just welding it, but was talked into trying to machine a spool for it first as a little practice project. I'm planning on swapping out the IFS for a solid axle pretty soon anyway. Send me some specs/drawings on the diff drop bushings. I could probably make you a set... After all the help you've dished out to me and everyone else it'll be on the house. You can make the drawing as crud as you want, I've just never seen the diff drop stuff in person so I don't know what it contains.

And yes, I have a very cool boss.

I talked about this yesterday with my boss and he told me to get the carrier out of the parts pathy and bring it to work and we'll make a spool for it instead of welding the spider gears to the side gears. If the project goes smooth I may be making up a couple extras to pass on to friends for a fee. We'll just have to see how easy/time comsuming it ends up being. I like a challenge, but I have a feeling cutting the gear pattern is gonna be tricky. If anyone has any tips or anything I'm all ears. I've never had a front diff apart. So it's all new to me.

I was gonna suggest getting a wrench for that massive nut in advance, but 88 beat me to it. Most pipe wrenches will open up enough to grab it, if you don't mind a little scarred up nut and can't find the wrench you need for sale anywhere.(I can't remember what mm it is.)

You don't need to disconnect anything. It's alot harder to listen to the radio while the battery is disconnected. I've welded on mine more times than I care to remember, not to mention all the other vehicles I've welded on. I've never disconnected the battery or anything else, and never had any problems. Just hook up your ground as close to the part you're welding on.

Check out the new issue of Four Wheeler for more on cryo treated parts like rotors and gears. It's a good read, I'd post it if I had a scanner handy. They basically say that improvement in durability is doubled, the increase in strength is 30-50%... All the trophy truck teams are doing it.

I was pissed and asked why the hell not. I was pretty much told that "Off the record... You can thank all the insurance fraud people." Meaning that people are more likely to steal and burn their older full coverage insured car than a person with a newer car when the $$$ gets tight or they get sick of the POS.

Why would you do that? The L&P kit is stronger/better imho and you already have it. I'm sorry to see some people are getting the shaft, but I'm just as sorry about the Nissan community losing a D@MN good product. Phil, I'm sure alot of people would be more than willing to look past this whole mess if you were to make things right with those few people you own $$$ to. I for one would definitely still recommend your product to anyone asking about upgrading.

I was thinking the tcases were different.? I wish I known that I could just swapp'em.

Nope, The hardbody will have a cable screwed into the side of the tranny toward the rear on the passenger side. That is your speedo cable. You can unscrew it and hook up a power drill and it'll register on the dash how fast your drill can go... That being said. You do have a chance to hack up the inside of the 95's cluster enough to get the analog speedo from the 89 to fit in the original speedo's place.(A dremel will be needed.) Then you still have to salvage that cable from the HB and cut a hole in the pathies firewall to gain access to the back of the cluster in your pathies dash. (The newer pathies with electronic speedos don't already have a hole cut in the back of the cluster or the firewall for the cable to pass thru.) I did mine like that during my swap, but haven't gotten around to actually hooking up the speedo cable to the cluster. I can snap a pic or two of what mine came out looking like after I shoehorned it in if you'd like to see how good it can look. The numbers on the analog speedos are a little farther apart and a little more out from the center, but it doesn't look too bad. You can still see plenty of the numbers to know how fast you're going.

Around here(Houston, TX) you really have to worry about trucks like ours being stolen and shipped to Central and South America. I keep mine in the garage for that reason. It happens quite often. Best and cheapest security mod IMHO is to disconnect the trigger wire from the starter and rewire it to a hidden starter button that you can reach from the drivers seat. All you have to do is run a wire from the starter side of the trigger wire to starter button then to a fuse right before the positive terminal on the battery. You can easily add a relay, but I've been running it like this for over two years with no problems. I use a 15amp fuse that has never once blown. You have the turn the key on then hit the button. If someone rips your steering column open and connects all the right wire it'll still never start. The club is not a "invincible end all car theft device." It's just like the alarm LED a deterrent. If you're a thief and see three cars you want to steal sitting in parking lot. You gonna steal the one with a freaking club on the steering wheel.? Sure you can break in and simply cut thru the steering wheel in about 20seconds, but wouldn't it be easier still to just steal a car with no deterrent? Car thieves with wreckers should more severely sentenced... That's a pretty big line between small time thief and professional. Those guys can take your car anywhere anytime and there's not much you can do about it. If they do have a plate on the truck it'll most likely be stolen from some other wrecker that has no idea he's driving around with the wrong plates. Welcome to the big city.

When I installed mine(which is now for sale on ebay) I put it between the fan and the radiator inside the fan shroud because I was told that optimum tranny temp is about the same as the water temp. I had a gauge on my auto tranny that pretty much always read 170f - 190f. I've since swapped over to a 5speed... Now I'm much happier with the whole thing.