01silvapathy

Says you with your fancy Body on Frame Truck

And stalks me on youtube

Your pic looks fimilar, reenman, were you the one i was messaging on youtube?

YAYA............................excuse me while I go outside and screm for joy.........................................................................Okay well thats over with, this is good news, and this is going to be for just the rear correct?

Agreed, thanks for all the heplful info, now i need to figure out where to get extendable rear brake lines?

WTF?

Check out 4wheelparts.com I know they have a bunch of steelies that are 16's with 3.75in backspacing. You just have to look around. And I WOULD NOT go with 2.5 backspace!

Yeah they are the same thing whatever i guess diff sites use diff names. Anyways ya thats why we are trying to fix it, so we can drive down the 3hr drive to school, and bring it to Shiloh Ridge Off Road Park, its like 30 mins from our campus.

No, they are called upper and lower control arms, look on rusty's they list them as lower control arms, not links. Anyways, im going to have to agree with you magreggor, builoding up a project is half the fun, and the cost has been split up between 2 people. So its a win win we started with a broken beat up xj in the beginning of summer and by the start of school its completely changed! All the experience of putting on the lift, building the front bumper FROM SCRATCH!, and all the body work, combined with all the other random things, you can see what you can do with a 800 jeep. Im beginning to look for my own xj now lol Before

Yeah it is a SFA vehicle. The front is set up kinda like the rear of my R50, with the solid axle, and 2lower and 2upper control arms

That looks awesome for 60 bucks!

Okay so a few things have surfaced. We asked these same questions on a XJ forum, and we basically have a solution. There are a few things we have to buy. First off, A drop pitman arm, secondly an adjustable trac bar, and thirdly adjustable front upper and lower control arms. All that comes to like $550 dollars. But hey when you think about it, this jeep was bought for 800 bucks, with a broken tcase and missing front driveshaft, and they we got 5 33x13.5x15 ltb's mounted on rockcrawler wheels for 350 bucks, and a lift for 800 bucks, fixed the tcase for 100, and found a driveshaft for 50 bucks and you have a badass wheeling rig for $2650 Thats a helluva deal, and the cost has been split up! All the while we have done all this work ourselves and gained a great deal of knowlege and we are going to have an unstopable wheeling rig!

Okay so here are some quick pics, it was raining at the time they were taken. The dark black is the tie rod end we replaced Same in this pic the dark black tie rod end is what we replaced One more- the new tie rod and ends I know the pics are small its something with the camera but if you can specify what places to take pics of I can get them

Good writeup, only thing is that the pics for the fuel filter and trans case dont work, just red x's but may I suggest a stickey for all R50 section. I know GPG was lookin for this kind of info and a few had questions about it, including me LOL

WOW, I really dont have a clue what im talking about but u sound like you do lol. ya just the 1 at the y and the knuckle are what we did

How could there possibly be 5 tie rod ends? We replaced the tie rod with a heavy duty one, the ends that go on that tie rod, those 2 are the ones we replaced. Pics will be up later tonight.

We already replaced them like 2 weeks ago, and the jeep is just sitting there, cant blame us, cause we dont want to die LOL. Im workin on getting those pics STAT!

Thanks guys for all the help on this issue, yall are even more helpful than some of the member on NAXJA! Yet another showing of how helpful the NPORA family can be The lift if im not mistaken is a 4.5 in Rough Country, and there is a seperate 2in spacer kit (composed of spring spacers in the front and shackles in the rear) The death wobble is in the FRONT, which makes it even worse! Driving at 45 and then having this thing shake like crazy, almost me me poop myself! I am really begining to think that its a pitman arm, because the lift is a 4.5 in, and that may not require a drop arm, but since the spacers and shackles were added, that may well be the root cause. And 87 pathy, what do you mean TRE's Im new to this whole jeep and sfa stuff. Pictures, I will try to do my best to get some, this is a split project of sorts between a few friends, and one of the brothers and me are here at school 3 hours away from the jeep, but the brother at home may well be able to take some quick shots and send them to me, and ill post them up. I told jeremy the one at home, to try and bolt up the stock tires and see if that helps out with the shaking, although the ltb's have been balanced already. After that we could try and take out the spacers and shackles, but hell whats the point of that? If that fails then we will either custom make a pitman arm drop, or order one or something. I cant explain how helpfull yall have been so far, my friend is impressed with the quick replies!

No like the whole thing shakes. Its scarry as hell the first time we felt it. Cause it really throws you around, and the wheels are visibly shaking side to side

A friend of mine bought a used 93 XJ for 800 bucks and got a 4.5 in lift, and 2in spacer/shackles. Before he had the lift there was no death wobble at all, but after the lift when going on flat pavement the jeep is fine, but as soon as you hit a pothole, the death wobble kicks in, and its BAD! So far he has gotten the front LTB's balanced, and we replaced the front tie rod ends with a heavy duty tie rod also. Its just very strange. We would like to take it down from Dallas to Nacogdoches for school and to wheel at Shiloh Ridge, but that wobble is keepin it in one place. I had read about track bar issues and play in that. I highly doubt that its bushings, because they were fine before the lift. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated! Here are some pics.

Yes I need pics

Pics would be of great help, a pic is truely worth a thousand words

How long has it been ripped, and has alot of grease leaked? If so its the same amount of work to pull out the whole cv to replace the boot, as it is to replace the whole cv. If its been broken for awhile, and alot of grease has leaked, that allows for dirt and water to get in. and if you dont get it all out, and replace the boot only, then your going to wind up replacing the whole cv again later down the road. Id reccomend manning up the extra money for a remanufactured cv, get one from orilleys they come with a lifetime warranty, so if it happens again its free!

Yes you are correct with needing 4 blocks for the sub frame- all 4in tall, drilled in the stock locations for bolts. You are also correct on the engine blocks, I do believe that they are also 4in but from the pics nissandoms has been sending me they seem to be square. Steering- you will need a steeting extension, ususally consisting of a u-joint and I believe some parts from a honda steering column. Going on to the strut spacers, they are 4in spacers. basically just a flange is cut out and a piece of tubing 4in is welded on to create a spacer. If you use the stock springs then you wont get as high of a lift, as apposed to doing a SFD with the AC 2in Lift coils. This is what I will be doing, the strut spacers with the AC 2in lift coils. As for the back there are 2 options. The most common and easy route is making a 4in spacer, that the lift coil can sit in. The second option that has been discussed, but not yet applied or tried out is using F250 coils. These coils just are the right length for the lift. This in theory works, but Fukinitupagain has all the parts for his SFD and is going to try out using F250 Coils, im just as interested as u will be to find out if they work or not. Another good member to talk to is tmorgan and nissandoms he could help you out ( with the planning stages, im not trying to be rude or anything to alex, but dont actaully buy one from him) im sure you have seen the thread.