01silvapathy

Well im sure I will find out soon enough how the fit is....

Road Salt FTMFW

Yep, I tried for about 15 minutes to get the dang thing off, with no success. I felt like i was going to snap it if I put any more pressure on it. So I will wait until the day that I am going to install the switches to mess around with this stuff. On the bright side of things, I managed to get off my stuck ratchet, and get off the drivers side stock tow plate

Thanks alot guys! Now I finally have some work to get done!! Another reason why I love this forum

So im in the process of installing some roof lights. I got them mounted up and almost all done wiring. But I have a few questions. First off, where did those of you who have lights run the wires for the switches through the firewall? I can only find one hole where alot of wires come through and its right behind all the dash controls, and almost impossible to get to from the engine compartment. Secondly how do I remove my faux wood trim? There are no screw holes in the bottom or anything...if anyone knows before I just try and pry it off breaking it in the process. Im trying to mount either one switch there next to the heated seat buttons. But perferably I'd like to run two switches right in front of the gear lever. But that I dont know how to access either. Any help would be much appreciated. Here are some pics The Lights mounted up Wood Trim I need to figure out how to take off Area behind gear lever I want to install switches, or next to headed seat switches The only hole in the firewall that I could find, right behind the switches on the dash, near impossible to get to by hand

Hah, you read the part about alexrex doing it....which means its custom and he didnt make a write up.

Haha yeah, I just managed to get the ratchet stuck on the pass side bolt which was stripped and got that whole plate off. The drivers side well...I only had the top bolt left, so i moved the evap canister, and stuck the ratchet up there, it was a PITA to get on, and well.....kinda cant get it off now So ya been driving around with my ratchet stuck on the bolt.....

Well the hitch I got is off a 98, right now im wiring up 4 roof lights and its a PITA, after that I will move onto mounting the hitch. I held it up (thing weighs a ton),and it looked to match up just fine. Now I just need to find some bolts and get the top 2 bolts off, which on a VQ is hard cuz the muffler gets in the way. and the drivers side the gas tank evap canister is in the way too I just hope I dont strip the bolts

I havent heard much about the first two issues, but the windows are quite a bit slower once it gets below 30F. The CD player is a meh, I have 2 cd's stuck in mine, but I never use it anyways. And yes if you do have a VQ 3.5 then I would get a mechanic to lock tight those power valve screws.

Just gets some aircraft landing lights and mount them up. Thats what alexrex did, and those things are bright as hell. And they are cheap too, under 100 bucks for the lights and all the wiring. Although it doesnt look as clean as the kit that comes with the ARB I'd still put function over form.

Yup thats the same exact hitch I got, it looks pretty dang beefy to me!

Picked up the hitch today and MAN O MAN what a BEAUTY!!! Paid 70 bucks with tax for the super nice hitch. Its the nissan factory one I think. It has 6 bolt holes PER SIDE! and that as alexrex explained was for LOAD DISTRIBUTION...it even has the fancy plastic step on top.

Story of my life Homebro

Wow man, thanks for the great reply....now I just need to find this 4th hole, and get some bolts. I will look on a few common websites for hitches and install instructions, they cant vary that much! Great idea BTW, never thought about that

Yah, just went and took a gander at the plates, as it turns out there are indeed nuts on the other side of each bolt, but they are welded in. This though leads to another probelm, the possibility of cross threading when putting in the new bolts, the bolts that came out didnt look to be in too bad a shape, may just re-use them? But the pass side plate came off easy, the driver side top bolt is near impossible to get to with a ratchet May just have to put in the two bolts on that side and wait to get up to the shop on Sat to put in the last bolt with an open-ended wrench. Thanks again yall for the quick replies and help

And as far as fitment, the 96-04 should all be interchangeable. The only changes were cosmetic and engine wise, maybe some interior changes but thats about it.

Wow, thanks for the quick replies yall! I think that im most likely still going to go get the used hitch. I spoke to a guy there and its in excellent shape, no real rust, or dents in the hitch. Yes I saw those brackets and saw that they needed to come off. My question tho, is that as I put my figers in the hole at the bottom and felt the bolt, you could feel on the inside that there was a bolt on the inside....no it could be welded in or something. But I really dont know. I guess that just before I go I will take a gander and try and remove the plates first. And there is no way in hell im paying over 100 bucks for a hitch. Its a tow hitch, used very seldomly, it seems easy enough to install just have to figure out whats up with these bolts. I'm a poor college kid......I always take the cheap route

Quick question, I was in the market to get a tow hitch and put it off, til about today. I need to tow a friends jeep about a half a mile up to school to fix his trans that went out this past week. Normally my buddies truck would pull it but he is out of town, and I was in the market for a hitch anyways so I figured why not just get one and tow the jeep up to where we are swapping the trans. Anyways, im driving to houston to pick up a used towhitch from a 98, for 50 bucks. New autoparts stores want like 162 without tax and stuff So I am driving 2 hours even with paying for gas thats around 100 bucks including the price of the hitch. So with the hitch being used and all...no instructions. My question is...do you have to take off the rear bumper in order to install the hitch? I looked at it this afternoon and it looks like the bolts where the brackets are now, have nuts on the inside of the frame rail or whatever you want to call it. SO how does it go on? Any info is much appreciated!!!

Yeah, the springs that come with the AC 2in Lift are def alot stronger...the pathy rides alot more like a truck after a lift. And the acutal tire size is 285/75/16 they measure 32.9 brand new, mine are used and measure 32.7 in the middle and the outer is 32.5. So its close to a 33. Helper bags are more for towing. And honestly I dont think that what you're hauling and towing doesnt warrant the use of helper bags. From the ppl I have talked to when you're not using the helper bags they are more of an annoyance, really squeaky and stuff....just my 2cents.

Found a pic of it sitting on level ground and clean....you can clearly see that with the lift and my 33's its still has a rake (front lower than back)With a few ppl in the back, or some bikes or some gear it would lower out nicely. I have hauled about 10 40lb bags of mulch with this set up and it didnt look or feel lower in the rear at all. It handeled it very nice.

Dont listen to those newbs! You dont have to get manual locking hubs, its just recommended but they can wait a year or so post lift. And if you're not wheelin that much its even better. And as far as stock wheels well I sure as hell didnt need them. Heck im better off on stock wheels than aftermarket wheels, they allow me to fit 33's on the 2in lift and still be able to turn and flex with very minor rubbing only while parking in reverse with the wheel cranked. And dont let the pic fool you, the rear is higher than the front, it has a rake when sitting on level ground.

Just try and use the search function....I started this same topic less than a month ago http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25159 Just dont let the dealership rip you off, Like I was unfortunately. There is no diff between 4x4 and 2x4, rather between the manual trans and auto. The job should cost under 250 bucks, if its indeed the oil cooler O-Rings not the oil cooler itself. Apparently even the tech at nissan said he had never seen a cracked oil cooler its always the rubber O-Rings that need to be replaced.

Well I did a bit of digging, and managed to find the build thread for doing a friction disc repak on your diff. Doesnt look too too hard, just may take awhile. I might be doing this this summer. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22182&hl=LSD+rebuild

Thats a guy in texas, he has a SFD and 33's. He wheels with alexrex, I havent yet had the chance.

Good decision, it will only take you like 10-15 minutes to do. I got mine at Orilleys Auto, came with a lifetime warranty so when its snaps or the boot ruptures again all you have to do is go get another one