01silvapathy

Damn that blows! Atleast your sfd held up!

Id just go with a 1.5 because you know how pissed you will be throwing tools against the wall in rage when you get smaller wheel spacers and the tires dont fit. LOL

Sure go for the title change. I also dont care if you host the pics on your photobucket, as I know that its been getting weird with bandwidth stuff and all.

Nice! So how loud do you have to yell to the passenger when you are driving?

I cant guarantee you anything with that. You may run into issues with rubbing the inside of the fender well on the rear wheels. But there is a simple fix if that happens, wheel spacers in the rear as well. As for the front I dont know what to say.

Yay for my thread being useful to atleast one person But when you do def put up pics! Are you going to switch out coils from your OME to AC's? If you are still running OME's if you want I can go and attempt to take a fender measurement and we can compare just to be sure. As far as steprails go, I dont know if you should take them off. While I like the look of them being off, with the type of driving you say you are going to be doing (high speed desert running) you may have an issue with stones hitting the side of your truck (esp if you go with BFG AT's they love to grab and hold onto stones!) I dont know how much it would help stop the problem but its worth a try with them on and if it doesnt help then take them off Onto the last topic about jacks. Yes you could replace your side steps with sliders but they are expensive, and you are not 4wd which means you should not be on rock or getting close enough to stuff to cause a use for the sliders, atleast in my opinion its not enough of a risk to justify dropping 500 bucks for a set of them when you wont be using them. A hi lift would work with those sliders though so that would be your only use for them, as a jacking point. I have used my rear hitch as a jack point for a hi lift before but I would not advise doing this because it can be very unstable having the whole rear end up in the air with only one contact. Now if you did like I did and once you get the truck up in the air throw some jack stands under the axle you will be fine. But once again with the type of terrain you plan on running a hi lift has issues, mainly with the foot. If you put it in sand I imagine it will just dig into the sand and not get any lift without a stable base point. You can however buy an off road base thing to put under the foot to give it a more stable footing. But what I would really look into is a Air Lift jack. Its pretty cool, you attach a tube to your exhaust and it inflates a giant air sack which in turn will raise up the vehicle. Which would also be good for sand! It wont be as able to sink into the sand. It would be cheaper than buying a set of sliders and a hi lift....just my opinion. Here is a link to the Air jack made by ARB called the Bushranger X Jack A video of how it works, in the situation you would probably be in those x tracks would probably come in handy also. Link to the jack http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/arb-bushranger-xjack-p-6025.html?osCsid=2ffupkqjm730rdhr9lk1ern602

Yes I have a 3.5, and you do notice that the tires are there but its nothing bad. I posted this video up in the write up, guess you didnt watch it. There is a 0-60 video at the end of the video

No, I only have a 2in suspension lift on my R50 This entire thread is about putting 33's on an R50 and R50 only nothing about Wd's there is no such thing as a body lift for a R50

I dont know man, you may run into issues with rubbing on the inside of the fender well in the rear. And up front they will def NOT fit with a 5 bs. You will need wheel spacers no matter what you do. They are only like 85 bucks shipped. Cheaper than buying a set of wheels. You could even go and get some steel spare wheels and those would work. You can do like I did and paint your wheels if you dont like them. Thats going to set you back a day of work and about 50 bucks.

My guess would be no. Im just basing this off the fact that the pathys went from a 3.5l to 4.0l I guess that in theory if they shared the same throttle body they might be able to fit but I dont know forsure if thats the case.

Same goes for you Diez I wanna see your truck on 33's. Join the cool kids!

Glad you found it useful Ty! I hope to see some 33's on your truck pretty soon here Apparently Pezzy wont pinn it until she removes "drama" from it. I guess all my time and effort was still not good enough for this board....or rather the admins

Can one of the mods PLEASE stickey this so that when next week someone asks about fitting 33's we dont have to dig through the topics to find it thanks

I slaved for an hour to do this, hope it answers your question...if not I dont know what to say http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26398

Okay so over the past few months I have recieved numerous pm's about how I fit my 33's and many topics have been started over this issue also. So I finally am making one thread that will discuss what I did and any issues that were had with the tires. Tire Size Okay to start off what size tires am I running? I call them 33's but they are really 285/75/16's which when new is 32.9 tall and 11.5 wide but actual height varies by brand, I am running a BFG AT. When I got the tires they were a bit worn and measured a 32.8 but thats close enough to me, and the difference between new and used would not require much difference in trimming if any at all. I would imagine that a 33x12.5 would rub ALOT MORE and you would need a bigger wheel spacer/adapter to run a 12.5. As it sits now I have very little distance between the edge of the front tire and the struts. Note that I am NOT running a 33x12.5 only a 285-75-16. Suspension Setup I am using the AC 2in Lift available at 4x4parts.com. Now onto the issue about acutual height. I know that the tires will fit on an AC LIFT, I DO NOT know if they will fit on an OME suspension, if someone wants to measure fender height we can compare and see what the difference is. I know it has been done a few times on the ac lift but I have not heard of or seen anyone running 33's on the OME setup. Wheels and Their Backspace Now onto this delicate and probably most important detail of fitting 33's and being able to use them and flex without issues. Acutal wheel size does not matter, you can run a x15,x16,x17 whatever, what really matters is the backspace of the wheel. I am using the stock double tri spoke wheels which have a backspace of 4.25. I will not post up pics of the other model wheels that work, anyone that can read this post can also find out the backspace of their wheels. Any wheel that measures a 4.25 or larger ie. 4.5 and up will work. Wheels that measure a 3.75bs WILL NOT WORK. The backspace of a wheel determines how far out from where the face of the wheel is bolted to the axle sticks out. The more backspace the less it will stick out, the less backspace the more it will stick out. So in short a 4.25bs wheel will look to be inside the wheel well while a 3.75bs wheel will look to be even with the fender well. This leads to the issue of being able to flex and tuck a tire. Its common sense that when the tire sticks out farther it will be out more, and then cause issues with rubbing on the fender flare. Because the wheels backspace is 4.25 or greater the outer edge of the tire will just miss the fender flare and tuck nice and neat into the wheel well allowing the axle to articulate without issues. See picture below for tire tuck. Tucking a Tire without rubbing Wheel Spacers/Adapters Now even though you have a wheel with the proper backspace (4.25 or greater) You will be able to properly fit the tires in the rear without issues, the front however is a different issue. The front suspension of a R50 is a Strut setup. The bottom of the struts have a cup around them that sticks out quite alot. Now if you attempt to put on the tires and wheels with the 4.25 bs it will NOT work. In order to fit the tires up front you will need a wheel spacer. You will need a wheel spacer that is atleast 1.5in This wheel spacer will effectively put the mount for the wheel and tire further out increasing the distance between the edge of the tire and the bottom cup of the strut. Now you may be asking yourself why would I do that because then the tire will stick out past the edge of the wheel well. You would be correct in stating that. The reality of the issue though is that the front suspension of an r5o does not flex, it does but not much at all, let alone enough to cause issues with rubbing on the fender flare. Note: I still have my front sway bars on and have not wheeled with them off, I have heard that it flexes somewhat but I dont have experience with it, so dont blame me if you take it off and it rubs ) Now you may be looking around online for a wheel spacer for a nissan, good luck finding one because there isnt one (that I have found) Not worries though, the R50 has the same bolt pattern as Toyota 6x5.5. Most wheel spacers from both nissan and toyota will have a center bore large enough to fit over Warn Manual Locking hubs if you have them. The wheel spacers attach to the current lug nuts that are on your truck and the wheel bolts to the new studs that are on the new wheel spacer, see picture below. You have probably heard horror stories about wheel spacers, but as long as you take your time installing them, and use locktite and torque them to the right torque you should be fine. The stance of your truck will change with the addition of wheel spacers you will have a much wider stance and track width. I like the look and its nothing excessive you cant feel a difference at all, see below pic. The only downside of the wider stance is that the edge of the tires like to pick up rock and stones and throw them against the side of the truck, I took off my running boards If I had kept them on they probably would have helped but I like them off. Dont let this keep you from doing it through, it is not that big of a deal, also water it gets sprayed up all over the side of the truck The wheel spacers are available from many retailers and stores. I would advise NOT buying off of ebay as you dont have the assurance of quality that you get from going with a reputable dealer. Steevo over at ruggedrocks has the spacers for sale here is a link to the spacers. http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/trailgear-6x55-wheel-spacers-1534-wide-p-3667.html Wheel Spacer New Stance with wheel spacers Trimming and Rubbage Okay here is the part that most ppl have questions about. I had to trim, but it was nothing that a dremel or shears cant handle. I had to trim the inner fender well liner and some off of the front lower part of the bumper. The VERY Bottom of the fender flare had to be trimmed and it is not noticeable unless you look up from the ground. I also had to remove the front mud guards, otherwise there would be massive rubbing. Understandable trim varies by year and trimming will vary but this is a common trim and thats what I had to do. Here are some videos I took and put on youtube about trimming and fitment of the tires. These videos show everywhere I trimmed and how much. Trimming General Pics and Stuff- 0-60 with the tires Why you SHOULD do it Well its a good question, with a simple answer....its AWESOME. Its crazy I gained about as much lift as my actual suspension lift gave me Performance atleast with a VQ is still good for a lifted SUV and it is not noticeable. Your gas milage will suffer a bit, but hey if you wanted good gas mileage you wouldnt be driving a lifted SUV But Id say if you want to do it go for it! I will post some pics below to entice yall to do it. I believe that I have covered just about everything, and this has taken me about 45 minutes to type out and link and put pics in......so I hope I covered everything, if you have questions please RE READ this post and then if you still have a question. Now its almost midnight and I have class at 8 Am tomorrow Night yall

I heard that the Baja's wear out real quick and that they get real unstable on wet roads. I know it does not rain that often in San Diego, but when it does come down it comes down hard. The AT's do great in pretty much everything, and they are cheaper

We got the cool stuff yo!

Doesnt the atx14 have like a 2.4:1 Lo range vs the tx10's 2.0:1 lo range?

Thats going to be EPIC once its all done in ali. Man I wish I had MONEY!!!!!

I saw that over on Ronin Wheelers site, and wanted to do it. Just dont have the time nor the tools or money for that matter.

So are you asking wether or not you can fit 33's on the ac lift, or wanting to find out the height of the ac vs ome springs?

I honestly dont know how many times I have had to say this.....maybe I should just like post a giant info section and then one of the mods can sticky it so that way I dont have to keep typing it out.

Hey, im tryin to help the guy with what he's got! While it may not be the safest method, it will get the job done.

Here is a pic of the plate and the mount. They are right next to the exhaust and in the same location on the other side of the truck. So just get a hook and you should be set. Or just pic up a cheap used hitch I got mine for 70 bucks at a auto salvage place. Car-Parts.com is a good place to look just type in your zip code and select tow hitch or trailer hitch from the menu and it will show you the locations close to you in miles and the price and condition and also list a phone number.

Look underneath where the hitch would mount up. I know that when I went to install my hitch I had to take off the factory tow plates. They are just L shaped plates that bolt up to the same location that a hitch would. You should have one on each side, attached by 3 bolts. Now be warned that these are not hooks per say more a plate with a hole in it. So you will need a a strap with a hook on the end or a attachment of some sorts. Im not sure if this came on all pathys or not but just take a look up under there and look for your self.