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01silvapathy

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Everything posted by 01silvapathy

  1. I think that the US model pathys are different than the Australian models. When I run the 4hr trip back and forth to college if I leave my hubs unlocked the 4wd light will come on about two hours into the trip,twenty minutes to a half hour after that the 4wd light will start to blink, so I just lock em on long trips over two hours, and leave them unlocked around town where most of my driving is.
  2. Ha Unibody Ridin Goon....had to make it my title LMFAO
  3. Dang thats some pretty hard abuse for a truck
  4. Pretty much like this, a limiting strap with a Bilstein resi shock for better bump absorbtion
  5. What do you mean properly made? I have camber bolts now to correct my alignment and its out of alignment now has been for awhile lol. What can make you have a bad kit im guessing something with the strut spacers
  6. Sweet, im probably just going to invest in a good air ratchet before install, to help get into small places that the impact cant get to, as well as a new jack, my buddy one has one. Thanks for the tips as always guys!
  7. Im talkin about the bolts holding on the front axle/diff not the cv shafts I have taken those out before.
  8. Wow, that was easy! Good thing it was not too serious. Take pics/vid from the upcoming races!
  9. Yeah, so I was looking under the pathy a few minutes ago and what kinda tool exactly are yall using to break lose the axle bolts? Just a normal ratchet, or a impact with a universal joint?
  10. Sweet guys, it does not sound too too difficult to get done, the hardest part is obviously going to be taking out the axle, but that makes everything so much easier.
  11. Okay so I am possibly installing my sfd this weekend if we get around it it (other stuff like fabbing sliders and stingers comes first lol) I have written up a rough list or instruction set of sorts and im going to put it up here for those of you who have installed a SFD before to read over if you would And any tips or missed steps that I left out post up what it is, or a different way of doing it Prep -Soak all bolts in PB the night prior to install -Rent Coil Compressor for rear coils -Get front diff fluid to change since its going to be pulled anyways (dont know what to get, suggestions?) -Buy brake fluid to top off after bleeding brakes -Get rear brake line made and remember to bring it lol -Tube to extend the breathers in both the front and the rear? Front SFD -Jack up front end and place jackstands under the pathy, with the parking break on as well. Remove front wheels and tires -Remove front driveshaft, cv's, and take out front axle, or drop it enough to access drivers side engine mount. *Probably just easier to remove it?* -Unbolt and tie up the front struts, to prevent them from falling down -Place jack with piece of wood on top under oil pan on engine and unbolt the engine mount bolts. (all while being extremely careful to not move the engine + or - 1 inch -Place second jack under front subframe and unbolt the subframe and lca mount -After securing the steering wheel with the seatbelt or string, unbolt the steering -Carefully lower the subframe while watching to not stretch any lines or connections that may still be on -Lower just enough to place blocks on the engine mount and subframe, and place the strut spacers on -Install front steering extension and tighten down all bolts for the lift blocks and the struts -Re-install front axle if it was taken out -Replace front cv's and front driveshaft -Untie steering wheel and lower all jacks supporting front end and jackstands Rear -Jack up back end and support with jackstands under pathy and also under rear axle -Remove rear coils and shocks -Disconnect spring for the lsv (disco the panhard rod?) -Remove old brake line and replace with extended line -Place new spring spacers and bolt down and weld them in place -Replace springs and re install bump stops and shocks Final Steps -Make sure all bolts are still tight and turn wheels to make sure there is no binding -After admiring in awe the sheer awesoemeness of the sfd take it for its first spin just around the block a few times to make sure everything feels good -Recheck that all bolts are still tight and weld in the subframe blocks and steering extension Thats my list so far, I think I covered everything. But I have a few questions yet. -As far as the engine mounts go I think that once im sure everything in good im just going to try and tack weld the bolts on the passenger side mount to secure them, cause once everything is good I dont want to have to drop the axle again to tack the other side. -As far as the axle goes, how would you just lower it? Its on brackets so how can you just lower the axle it looks to be like its either in or out -Breather extension- what diam. tubing do I need to extend the breathers is there a breather in the front? -last thing what did yall do with your lsv spring and is anyone using the stock panhard rod? I will probably wind up having to make a drop bracket of sorts cause I imagine that it wont fit to the stock location with the spacers. Thats it, I would REALLY REALLY appreciate it if those who have experience with a sfd or the front axle to chimme in and tell me if I have got everything covered This is not something I can afford to screw up on
  12. Dang, I really hope that its not that bad for your wallets sake
  13. This dude is legit, he beats the living crap outta his pathy, probably harder than any other r50 driver in here. Here are some links to some of his videos on youtube. I reccommended this site to him cause he msg'd me on youtube asking me stuff and I didnt know the answer, I will wait for someone more knowlegeable to tune in LOL He almost flips twice in this video
  14. Id say just go with the Pro Comp shocks they are dirt cheap and to me, they ride pretty good. Its a kinda ride you would expect for a lifted suv. I can look on my shocks and get a part number if you want, but its going to be too long a shock just for a 2in lift. They also can allow for too much travel, i have been out flexxing with some friends just messing around and I flexed up on a dirt mound and suddenly heard STOP yelled out cause my passenger side rear spring was just leaning against the bumpstop So I had to slowly back down while my buddy directed the spring so it re seated correctly.
  15. Anyone know what the factory window tint percent is? Im looking to tint my windows tomorrow and i want them to pretty much match the rest of the windows. Also what brand tint is best to go with? Anyone have any suggestions for me?
  16. To this day I love my Pro Comp ES3000's, best 75 bucks I ever spent
  17. Someone needs to fab up some quick disconnect fender flares
  18. Okay first off, make sure you dont get a true 33x12.5 that will be too big get a 285-75-16 thats the biggest I would go for the ac lift. For the wheel spacer get a 1.5in wheel spacer I have a link up in my write up about where to get it. Its also a good idea to get the camber alignment bolts from AC to help with the alignment post lift with the bigger tires, its going to be off by quite a bit.
  19. Thats what im probably going to have to do once I get 35's. The only thing I would have a problem with again is painting them back to the stock color, might cost a pretty penny
  20. I think that even if you went with a 32 you would still have to trim and still have to run a wheel spacer up front if you're goin to be using stock wheels. As far as shocks are concerned, I got some cheap shocks from pro comp Es3000's they were designed for an explorer but they work great for my pathy. I have heard bad things about the rancho shocks in the back with them leaking and stuff, so id say go with bilsteins, and definately get KYB STRUTS, whatever you do DO NOT GO WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN KYB for the struts. I love mine and so does everyone else. Go in the r50 section and look at the thread in the pinned topics about lifting your pathy there is a bunch of info there
  21. You would probably have to trim more than I did, esp if they are a mud terrain tire. A true 33 actually measures 33in new as opposed to a 285-75-16 which measures 32.8 depending on the tire brand and model.
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