01silvapathy

Sweet man, glad to see they worked out for ya! I will definately be refrencing this thread when I am able to afford sliders.

Not sure I am catching your drift on that one

I know Ty (tekazgtr) has been talking to me in the past about a diesel conversion and such. He may tune in here in a bit and shed some light on the subject. I am pretty sure that there are alot of diesel pathys over in Japan.

I suppose you are right on that. I will look into mounting it inside the piping to the tb. The one problem though that I do have is that the stock wire is no where near long enough to reach that. So I dont even know how to go about lengthening it to make it all the way to the intake piping

Baller, The first seal of approval Im actually kinda intrigued by the hinge idea, but that would be way to much work for such a simple task....and burning through the thin sheet metal in the engine bay is wayyy to easy even with the amerage turned waaayyyy down. And I dont think im going to mount the IAT in the actual intake tube between the filter and tb. I think im just going to bolt it to the side of the engine bay out of the way and harm of dust and water. The bracket should protect it pretty well from those but get a good air temp reading at the same time. Plus I have a feeling it would be an issue to drill and then try to make a seal on the stock intake tube from the pop charger to the tb.

Let me start off by saying I dont care if you think its stupid or pointless. I believe it serves a purpose and is kind of practical. Now on to what I did. As some may know I got a JWT Pop Charger awhile back and I love the thing, by far one of the best mods to date for the truck. The stock intake resonator is pretty big and houses the IAT (intake air temp) sensor. That sensor is placed for the stock air box and read the temp for that. Now that the filter is in the engine bay it really does not do its job. So what I decided to do was remove the sensor from the stock intake resonator and get rid of that piece of trash. I re mounted it up in the engine bay close to where the pop charger filter sits at. This is right where the filter takes all of its air from so it should in reality help. But once the resonator was removed there was a big gaping hole that leads right up to the filter and I could just imagine water splashing up and me hydrolocking as a result. So I decided to make a new intake tube and a removable plate that could be easily intsalled on the trail or as needed and removed when done. So onto the pics, I know its not super pretty but its functional for now. I need to still make a small shield for the IAT sensor and silicone up a few areas but other than that, it was a fun little project for a boring saturday night at the shop Hole where the resonator came up into the stock air box. Notice you can see right down to the tire Temp location for the IAT sensor until I can fab up a shield and perm. mount it somewhere where it will not get wet. Rough design of the plate that will cover the hole. Bolts were tacked on the under side of the fender well so all I need to do to install the plate is just use wing nuts to tighten it down Ran the 3in ID irrigation pipe up to the hole, and ran some fuel tubing around the edge of the intake hole to help create a good seal. And let me tell you it is a great seal we shot up air from an air hose and had no leaks with soapy water, also shot a water hose up with no leaks Everything zip tied in place and the pop charger filter back on, what it will look like for normal city driving Where the tubing gets all the air from, right next to the fog light All done up, had to cut some of the slats out from the grille to allow for better airflow Still have to finish those last few parts and paint the inside of that pipe with some spray paint so its not so obvious when you are looking straight on at it. But let me know what you think.

I want some pics!

Yeah if you are in auto mode wouldnt you also have to be in 4h?

I have 4 hella roof lights. Its pretty simple of a setup. Starting up top, I have them on a homemade rack, which the wires run through. I have the two outer lights rigged up to go on with one switch and the two inner to go on with the other switch. The wires run out of the tube, and into a weather proof connector that runs wires down the a pillar in the weather stripping to the engine bay. From there it runs across the bay to the relays, I have 2 one for each set of lights. From the relays to the battery there is a fuse and from there a ground and a connection to the battery. I also have wires running from the relays back through the firewall and into the cab to 2 switches I got from autozone. Google search hella wiring guide or something to get a diagram of how to wire them, its what I followed to wire mine and it worked really well.

Oh wow, thats a way to make something that should be really simple.....super complex. I dont even want to know the proper way to get it into 4lo

It cant happen though. Do both ways work like is there an auto mode that actually does something. Cause its physically impossible for the tx10 to have an auto mode, and im pretty sure you cannot fit a standard manual shift stick to the axt14. I need pics to actually believe what you are saying, my mind is telling me something is lost in translation

It is impossible to have both, unless you magically have 2 transfer cases. You are probably confusing the floor shift for the transmission with a transfer case. The floor shift for the trans has P,R,N,D,2,1. The shift knob for the transfer case should have the 2wd,Auto,4hi,4lo

The floor shift 4wd is the tx10, the Shift knob (all mode) is the atx14. There are several advantages/disadvantages to each xcase

Def report back your findings! Id be interested to see how this setup works out for trails

SWEET! So you got the gussets and just welded those to the unibody? Any bolts to the pinch seam at all?

I got mine made to 27inches with the 4in sfd and 2in coils

Yeah the plastic goes down and back towards the firewall under the fender. Its open and covered only by the wheel well lining which water can easily access.

Yeah, I left the battery completely disconnected overnight and when I reconnected everything again the light was gone Now that I know how to clear the code im going to try and take out the sensor from the intake resonator and mount it close to the intake in the engine bay where it wont get wet. It will get a more accurate reading there since the pop charger does not really get air from the resonator like the stock box did. I also hope to build a simple plate to cover the hole where the intake feeder tube used to come up from the wheel well and feed into the stock air box. I dont want water splashing up and into my pop charger filter when going wheeling or anything. So id just be able to take the plate on and off when needed with some wing nuts or something.

PM'd

well everything was back in place on my trip back. It ran fine the whole way, at 75mph ac on set at 70 for 4 hrs without stopping. I tried disconnecting the battery negative for an hour and the light was still on. Disconnected the battery completely and am going to leave it like that til tomorrow afternoon and see if its still on. If that does not work im going to go to autozone and try bribing the person with the scanner to clear the codes

LOL ya shoulda been a little more concise with my question. I know how limiting straps work just wanted to know how the setup worked for the situation. Glad to see it worked out well for you. Would you keep them on for wheeling?

So.....how does it work?!

Just wait til I get my sfd on, ill get totm fo shizzle....do you get my drizzle?

I dont know man, its a wider tire than im running by an inch so a half inch closer to the strut. It might just make it, but I cant give you a forsure answer

Are they a true 33? And whats the width on the tire