01silvapathy

Camber bolts....I have 2 in each strut allowing for up to 4* of adjustment negative or positive

Or you can get a pop charger and do what I did. Its a dual purpose ram/cold air intake with a block off plate for water crossings and such. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28169&st=0&p=532246&fromsearch=1entry532246

My guess would be camber issues with an alignment. As you can see from the pic below your camber setting with the alignment can bring the top of the tire closer or farther away from the bottom of the strut.

Cool pix XPLOR! Thanks for the advice on how to do a water crossing.

Yeah, hopefully tomorrow we will do the rear. Though my buddy is a little hesitant to start it cause the front should only have taken 9 or so hours but it wound up taking over 30 soooooo yeah. And im just using a spacer to lift the rear up, no custom coils or anything.

I recieved my brake line today!!!! Should be on tomorrow....best birthday present evarrrr!

Here is a pic, as you can see, the camber bolts on both sides are adjusted to their max and I have some negative camber. I will take them back to a neutral position when I get around to it, atleast the outside of the tire which is already super worn is not getting worse at the moment. Oh and excuse the window paint

I just got a cv today, looking to put it in sometime tomorrow as its my birthday today....I will try and take pics of the process so this topic does not come up again.

I also fixed my camber issues, ill take some pics and post up. I actually wound up using the spacers that came with the kit, they had a small angle on them and with the camber bolts the wheels actually have a bit of lean in to them.....so just a few little adjustments to do and im golden!

Uh well about 600 for the ac lift (coils, struts, shocks, Manual Hubs) and I paid 800 like an idiot for my sfd plus a 52 dollar custom brake line, and possibly 152 for different strut spacers which I may or may not use. So me personally, im in atleast $1452 to $1604. WOW, I never really added it up before LOL. But I paid for hte sfd two years ago so I kinda got over spending that much. But now you can get a sfd kit for $450 so you should be able to get where im at for around a grand, which is right about what it would cost to lift any other vehicle 6in as well so its whatever. Gotta pay to play

I was under the impression that it had to be done if the subframe is dropped and a steering extension is put in place. It helps alleviate some of the angle the joint is put on after the drop.

Yeah, the steering wheel is also driving me nuts cause I cant use any of the controls But I will get around to fixing them eventually, probably by getting a new clock spring off of ebay.

Thanks guys, I figured id be the one to post up the first decent kinda step by step instructions of sorts. I know id have loved to see more of the process before I had my go at it, but I just took things as they came. Andrew (shift220) has also been a huge help in the process.

Yeah thats without an alignment. We just did our own alignment with a tape measure. Basically the passenger side right now with the strut spacer that I got in my kit is about the posistion that it was in before the lift. That side only has one camber bolt at the moment but once I get another I think it will be perfect. The drivers side at the moment has the strut spacer that we made in it, with 2 camber bolts adjusted to the max. Once I set in the other strut spacer, I should be golden I believe. The toe adjustment REALLY helped me with the alignment, its still a bit off and pulls left but its no big issue at the moment cause i know its going to change again with the other strut spacer.

Whats with all the hate lately on r50s? Its probably because we finally found a way to lift up higher and really challenge a wd offoroad

Go back to your lamebutt wd section foo

Reserved for post lift general pictures and a rough list of supplies needed and such once I can think of one lol

Took some pics of the steering rack rotation, literally takes about 10 minutes to do. You can see the rack, and the brackets that hold it on. Loosen the passenger bracket and remove the drivers side braket, bend accoring to the picture I got from Shift220, and replace with washers to make up for the difference in space for mounting. Rest of post reserved for rear lift

So the next day we both slept til about 4pm and went back to work Placed all the blocks in place and torqued them to spec Engine Blocks Rear view Once all the blocks are in place raise the subframe up to the blocks and install all bolts. Its easier to use a screwdriver with a long shank to help pull everything into place. Once everything is pulled into place and torqued to spec install your steering extension and reconnect the rack and pinion pressure sensor. Dont have any pics of this step. Bolt the strut spacers to the struts and check for proper alignment of them. Take them and hold in place while using a jack to raise the knuckle into location to place the strut bolts into the strut. (again no pics..sorry) Next up is to take and bend the rack and pinion bracket (i will get a pic tomorrow of this) basically take off the bracket and bend it then re install allowing the steering rack to turn Lastly torque on the wheels and tires...we had to use a few 2x4's to get the truck high enough to do so Finished front, just have to get another camber bolt for the passenger tire and switch out one strut spacer when I can get back into the shop to work again. My front fender measurment is at 43 1/2 inches at the moment Before the lift After

Onto removal of the subframe bolts that mount to the body. These bolts gave us the greatest issue of all, and we had to use a torch to get the bolts red hot than a big impact gun to remove the bolts Be careful for fires There are two points on each side of the truck were the subframe bolts to the body, 2 bolts per location so 8 bolts total. Here are the other bolts that need to be removed where the LCA bolts to the body. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE ALL BOLTS YET JUST LOOSEN THEM! Once all bolts are loosened we took ratchet straps and ran them through the knuckle to support it while allowing the knuckle to travel down with the subframe. We also placed jackstands right under the lca mounts where the bushings are to rest the rear of the subframe on Disconnect the steeering linkage, after securing the steering wheel....I haz no pics of this Once thats done, we took a 2x4 cut to the length of the front of the subframe and laid it on the jack, to support the length of the subframe. Once the jack is in place, remove all the bolts that bolt the subframe to the body and slowly lower the subframe, watching for any wires being conected. Also the rack and pinion pressure sensor wire needs to be removed. Lower just enough to place the engine blocks on the studs, about 5in. Jack setup Start placing all the blocks in place starting with the engine blocks and then the subframe blocks This is about where we stopped, took me and a friend from 7pm til 3am to get this far

Okay so based off of a few requests an such for pictures i figured id go ahead and make a thread about my lift install. So here goes,I know my kit is not the same as others but the blocks and how to take off the subframe and steps I took should all be the same. I am missing a few pics and will try to get them updated and such once its light out again to take pics. How she entered the shop Removed Wheels and tires and placed 10 ton jack stands on the frame rails right under the door jam....removed the struts Pile of parts removed, disreguard the cv axle I replaced one while I was at it. But the easiest way to do the lift is to LEAVE the CV attached to the diff Strut removed and sway bar detached, used mig wire to run through the knuckle and up to where the struts mount to keep the weight off of the ball joints and to stop the knuckle from dropping down Support axle with floor jack and Remove the 4 bolts per side that hold on the axle to its mounting bracket and slowly lower the axle allowing the cv axles to "bind" on the lower control arms. This is to drop the axle enough to access the motor mounts Next up, remove the motor mount bolts that are bolting the motor to the subframe. Its easier to take off the bolts without the floor jack/wood supporting the motor now cause the motor weight will just go onto the subframe which is still bolted up at this point They are a bit trickey to get to so we found the easiest way was to just use your leg to do the work Once those bolts are removed, find something to support the motors weight from the oil pan. In our case we only had one floor jack, so we cut a 4x4 block to length to support it...worked like a charm!

Yeah, I will try and compile a thread with all the pictures I have taken for my install and post them up for all to see.

Quick updates, been driving her around like that for a day and the only issues really are not being able to see out my rear window but 10 feet and the steering wheel being in the wrong location. Other than that she drive better than before, smoother over bumps too. Also my existing wheel shake that I had before the lift went from being at 50-55 to starting around 43 and ending around 50 which isnt that huge of a deal. Its probably due to my tires being so out of round, or out of balance. Its non existant once you are over 50mph which is the good news. Could also be due to the fact that one strut spacer is a half inch taller than the other at the moment Onto some pics I took in terms of heights and stuff. Next to stock before the lift Next to stock after the lift Next to the tank before the lift Next to tank after the lift Youtube video for those that are interested

Upon looking into the FSM it would seem most logical that the "spiral cable" is the thing that broke. I will hopefully find out tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip man! Going to look more into it tomorrow after I switch out strut spacers tomorrow and try to center my steering wheel.